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Discussion starter · #342 ·
Thanks Forces

Yeah, they aughta replace the top picture of the websight with your last one there. How are the led's holding up? Any flickering, dimming, etc?
They are just fine, no problems at all! I had to replace a bulb in my bumper fog light again, I rattled it to death on the trails.

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why not convert them to loop to loop? gives you much better options
That is what they keep trying to talk my into, but I am not convinced yet. If I do that, I would have to get a shock that is 1 inch shorter, which means I will loose over 1.5 inches in extended length. 1.5 inches in droop lost at the shock would be ~3 inches of droop lost at the tire (it sits further out than the shock so the lost droop would be greater as the arc of the axle flex is greater (thinking of the axle as lever arm). While I have plenty of droop, there are situations where it really helps (like Golden Crack).
 
Discussion starter · #343 ·
I contacted Jeep to get my build sheet, they responded in under 12 hours.
_______________________________________________

Thank you for contacting the Jeep Customer Assistance Center.

We are pleased to provide vehicle build information per your request.

According to our records, your vehicle was equipped from the factory
with the following:

Sales Code Description
*DL Prem Leather Trimmed Bucket Seats
-L5 Taupe
ADBP Protection Group
ADEP Cold Weather Group
ADLP Skid Plate Group
AFFP Luxury Group
AHX Trailer Tow Group IV
APAS Monotone Paint
ARPP Limited Decor Group
ATA Radio - Cass/10-Disc./Infinity Spkrs
AWB Quadra-Drive II (R) 4WD System
AWE Up Country Suspension Group
AWSS Smoker's Group
A29P 4.7L Engine(EVA)/4Spd A/T 45RFE(DG4)
BAZS 136 Amp Alternator
BC6S 625 Amp Maintenance Free Battery
BRYS Anti-Lock 4-Wheel Disc Brakes
CACS Low Back Bucket Seats
CBWS Highline Door Trim Panel
CFNS Rear 60/40 Folding Seat
CGWS Next Generation Front Air Bags**
CKDS Floor Carpet
CKNS Cargo Compartment Carpet
CKRP Cargo Net
CKTS Cargo Tie Down Loops
CLEP Front & Rear Floor Mats
CLGP Covered Cargo Storage
CLPS Door Sill Scuff Pads
CSCP Cargo Compartment Cover
CSRS Passenger Assist Handles
CUDP Mini Overhead Console
CUFS Full Length Floor Console
DGB All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions
DG4S Multi-Speed Auto 45RFE Transmission
DHAS Lock-Up Torque Converter
DHFP Quadra-Trac II On Demand 4WD System
DJJS Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
DMEP 3.73 Rear Axle Ratio
DRKP Dana 44/226MM Rear Axle
DSBP Vari-Lok Progressive Front Axle
DSCP Vari-Lok Progressive Rear Axle
EAAC All Engines
EVA 4.7L V8 MPI Engine
GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass
GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass
GEGP Deep Tint Sunscreen Glass
GEPS Flipper Liftgate Glass
GFAS Rear Window Defroster
GNCP Sun Visors w/Illum Vanity Mirrors
GNKP Rear View Auto Dim Mirror
GT3P Power Mirrors, Fold-Away
GWAP Power Sunroof
GXMS Remote Keyless Entry
GXXS Sentry Key Theft Deterrent System
HAFP Air Cond ATC w/Dual Zone Control
HGAS Hood Insulation
HGDS Deluxe Insulation Group
JAYS Instrument Cluster w/Tach
JCBS 120 MPH Primary Speedometer
JHAS Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
JHBS Rear Window Wiper/Washer
JJAP Cigar Lighter
JJBS Dual Note Electric Horns
JJJP 12V Auxiliary Power Outlet
JKAS Locking Glove Box
JKPS 12V Auxiliary Power Outlet
JKYS Power Accessory Delay
JPBS Power Locks
JPDS Power Windows, Driver One-Touch
JTFP Power 10-Way Heated Memory Seats
KRCS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
KWCS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
K4NS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
LACS Illuminated Entry
LAGS Warning Chime
LAZP Vehicle Information Center
LBBS Courtesy Lamps
LBCS Glove Box Lamp
LBDS Ash Tray Lamp
LCBP Door Courtesy Lamps
LCES Rear Courtesy/Reading Lamps
LDAS Underhood Lamp
LDBS Cargo Compartment Lamp
LETP Traveler/Mini Trip Computer
LEWP Radio/Driver Seat/Mirrors Memory
LMBS Halogen Headlamps
LMGP Automatic Headlamps
LNJP Fog Lamps
LPSS CHMSL Lamp
LSAP Security Alarm
MDAP Front License Plate Bracket
MFTP Body Color Grille
MHAS Black Windshield Moldings
MWGS Roof Rack
MZBP Quadra Drive Badge
NAA Federal Emissions
NBHP High Altitude Emissions Tracking
NFPS 20.5 Gallon Fuel Tank
NHBP Auxiliary Transmission Oil Cooler
NHFP Power Steering Cooler
NHMS Speed Control
PW1 Stone White Clear Coat
QW1S Stone White C/C
RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles
RBNP AM/FM Cass Radio w/Changer Control
RCEP Infinity Speakers
RDDS Fixed Long Mast Antenna
RDPP 10-Disc Remote CD Changer
RDZP Steering Wheel Mounted Audio Ctrls
SBAS Power Rack and Pinion Steering
SCLP Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel
SDUP Heavy Duty Suspension w/Gas Shocks
SUAS Tilt Steering Column
TBLS Inside Mounted Spare Tire
TBWP Full Size Spare Tire w/Matching Whl
TTBP LT265/70R17E BSW All Season Tires
TZAS Goodyear Brand Tires
WDMP 16X7.0 Lux Alum Gold Wheels
WLZC All Aluminum Wheels
XEAP Tow Hooks
XEEP Fuel Tank Skid Plate Shield
XEFP Transfer Case Skid Plate Shield
XEUP Front Suspension Skid Plate
XGDP Universal Garage Door Opener
XPFS Protective Coating and Remover
YAAS Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications

Thanks again for your email.

Sincerely,

Colleen

Customer Service Representative
Jeep Customer Assistance Center

For any future communications related to this email, please refer to the
following information:
REFERENCE NUMBER: 21702193
EMAIL CASE NUMBER: 2656286
 
Discussion starter · #345 ·
Did your jeep come stock with "Rack and Pinion Steering" also? :D
 
Discussion starter · #347 ·
I picked up an IRO upper a-arm for project Yeti. I have RK arms on there now, but they need to be rebuilt. As this design looks better to me, I thought I might as well upgrade. I picked it up, new in an unopened box, from a local jeeper that listed it on some local classifieds. Does anyone know if the body side mounts use the factory bolts, or do I need to drill them out and install larger bolts?

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And my birthday is a few days before Christmas. So between that and Christmas, the Jeep got a few presents. My favorite, a GoPro Hero2 Motorsports addition. It will be fun to use in next years Moab trips.
I also really like the Shovel/Axe combo, it should come in handy.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #349 ·
I am waiting for my poly to get here so I can rebuild all of my control arm joints. I also ordered all 8 coil spring isolators, all new brake lines, and a new power booster (mine is leaking and squeaking). It has been very dry this winter, and I was planning on installing the new IRO upper A-Arm today. But as we finally recieved some snow, I thought I would go play on the foothills...
 
did a run at 4,000 ft to 6000 ft this last weekend no snow in Sierras! really sucks
 
Discussion starter · #352 ·
Yeah, this has been a really dry year and the lack of snow feels weird.
 
Discussion starter · #353 ·
The rest of my parts arrive today, Thanks Kolak!

Image


I rebuilt all of the control arms, and installed the IRO upper A-arm in place of the RK arms I had in there. Tomorrow I am going to install a new power booster, all new brake lines, bleed the brakes, and maybe start on replacing the coil spring isolators.

This pic shows a comparison of the arms that came out, and the A-arm that went in.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #354 ·
Power booster is in. I was really easy to install. I removed the airbox, and unbolted the abs module and master cylinder and slid them back a little, 4 nuts under the dash, one retainer spring, and it was out. I also loosened the Charcoal canister and moved it out of the way when pulling the booster out, and putting the new one in.

I then ran a new hard line from the ABS module all the way back to the rear, installed a new soft line from that to the axle. I then replaced all of the brakes lines at each corner. Bleeding the brakes was a beast. I went through a ton of fluid. The brakes stop well, but I feel like there is still excessive pedal travel. It is hard to know though as I am comparing pedal travel with how it felt before...a squeaking power booster that was going out. I might try and bleed it a bit more next weekend. Maybe I will try and meet up with a local jeeper to compare how their brakes feel to see what I should be aiming for.

Here is a pic with the booster out:

Image


New Booster from Kolak:

Image


NO MORE SQUEAKING EACH TIME I USE THE BRAKES!!!!
 
Discussion starter · #357 ·
It rides really smooth on the road, and is very easy to adjust. I have my pinion dialed right where I want it now. I haven't wheeled with it yet though, but I anticipate it is going to do very well. The rear joint has a enough flex in it to articulate the axle as far as I will need it to go. In fact, I need to lengthen my rear sway bar endlinks a bit so that I have more rear droop. I don't want to wheel without the rear sway, I like the little bit of stability it provides.
 
Discussion starter · #358 ·
I installed the new coil spring isolators today. The only ones that were still in decent shape were the front lowers. Other than that, they all needed to be replaced. The pics speak for themselves:

A set of new isolators next to the old ones:
Image


This pic of the front isolator shows where the spring has been pinching it, it is cracking and deteriorating.
Image


No spring compressors needed, just lift from the body and let the axle droop.
Image


Using the air lift to lift from the hitch:
Image


The only snag I ran into: The drivers side rear sway bar bolt broke. I had to remove the endlinks so that the sway bar would let the axle drop even further to release the springs. The bolt I have has tapered threads, I am not sure if this is a factory bolt or if this was supplied with the lift kit. If you know what your WJ has, please let me know. I figured a 27 cent fix would work for a few weeks. I have new bushings for the sway bar endlinks, RK sent them to me for free when I ordered the poly to rebuild my rear joints. I will get to it in the next week or two. Anyways, I didn't have a sleeve that would fit the bushings as I just wanted to use a smaller bolt as needed to go out the end of the sway bar. The bolt hole through the sway bar is smaller than the bushing hole. I'm not sure if I want to drill the sway bar out as there is very little material there as is. Anyways, I stopped at lowes and bought 1 foot of polyethylene for $.27 and used it. I simply cut a section of it, slid it over the bolt, and used the poly as a sleeve. It worked great. It isn;t as strong as a metal sleeve, but it will only be in for a week or two anyways. It was a great fix for a late Saturday night broken bolt.
Image


This shows a grade 8 bolt slid into the poly. After forcing the bolt in, the poly sleeve is the same diameter as the sleeved section of the bolt I broke.
Image
 
Discussion starter · #360 ·
It was around $125 IIRC, and well worth it to eliminate the stupid squeaking.
 
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