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LSRGreg's WJ Build... Its ON!

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Discussion starter · #121 ·
looks like to make it work you need to add all the other stuff, or do some serious cutting of it, and once its all cut up to make room for the upper mounts, it might not be worth having.. kinda weird.. not sure what is going on there.

g-
 
#122 · (Edited)
it comes just like in the pic,I u remove ur old upper mounts and weld the truss on..The truss has both uppers and trackbar mount..My buddy has this truss on his JK 44 axles under his XJ, He's had his XJ 65mph on big whoops, and has not bent a housing and he beats it hard!!
Im going to us this same truss on my ZJ to!!
 
Discussion starter · #126 ·
Clayton Off Road Mfg said:
Sweet WJ. Saw the pic with the axle problems. If and when you swap out axles we just finished our front and rear high clearance axle bracket kits.

http://www.claytonoffroad.com/upandcoming.htm

More information coming up.

Goodluck with the WJ build.
Click to expand...

Sweet! What front axle do you recommend swaping in. I would like to keep it under 3k, and that includes a arb, and 4.56 gears. I have been thinking about doing a currie 9" fabricated type, because i don't want something as big as a dana 60, and with alll the extra weight asssociated with it.

G-
 
#127 ·
LSRGreg said:
Sweet! What front axle do you recommend swaping in. I would like to keep it under 3k, and that includes a arb, and 4.56 gears. I have been thinking about doing a currie 9" fabricated type, because i don't want something as big as a dana 60, and with alll the extra weight asssociated with it.

G-
Click to expand...
I think a 9" will be nice I think u might be over 3K, Im doing a Hp dana 44in my ZJ..A buddy on mine run the rubicon JK axles with tnt truss's and does good for going fast and rockcrawling
 
#129 ·
LSRGreg said:
yeah.. i am thinking the jk 44 all beefed up, or a custom 9".

can my WJ knuckles bolt on to the jk 44??

G-
Click to expand...
there nice axles and come with lockers,jusk change the gearing.JK axles are 5x5.5 like a WJ why would u want to change WJ knuckles to the JK's..I there pretty muck the same but a lil bigger on the JK..Ill find out from my buddy and let u know!!
 
Discussion starter · #130 ·
i thought i heard they were the same.. thats why i asked.. as mine are already drilled and set up for my histeer.. , plus that will save me money, as i don't need all that stuff if they are interchangable.
 
#131 ·
I just wanted to chime in a bit on your Y link style front longarms.

First, good call on the rubber bushing move to the johnny joint. I had the same issue in my XJ, the forces on them from the y link kinda kills em fast.

Second, be careful now that you solidified it up. By nature when you're flexing that out and one side droops while the other compresses, they're trying to twist the axle in opposing directions. I've seen people rip control arm mounts off the axle. Caster wants to twist forward in droop and backward in compression so when you're flexing out they're fighting eachother, its a pretty good bind with no more rubber bushings in the mix.

I used my XJ and now my WJ in rally racing and my solution in the XJ was to run only the driver side upper on the front with a krawler joint in the upper control arm axle mount. I ran it like this for a few years with good results.
 
#132 ·
LSRGreg said:
Sweet! What front axle do you recommend swaping in. I would like to keep it under 3k, and that includes a arb, and 4.56 gears. I have been thinking about doing a currie 9" fabricated type, because i don't want something as big as a dana 60, and with alll the extra weight asssociated with it.

G-
Click to expand...
The axle we started with is a JK D44 front out of a 07 Rubi. The axles are a good starting point for the money. Tubes are not the strongest in the world, but I am sure you have seen tube and C upgrade kits.

Here is a video of Clayton going over the new WJ high clearance axle bracket kit and some of its features.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDqbjWcpqRA

I don't think you will find a cheaper axle for the money. A Currie fab housing would be nice too, but definitely more money.

The WJ we are working on has our full 6 inch package deal kit, with JK D44 axles front and rear, a Tom Woods SYE kit and CV rear driveshaft, running 33 inch tires. The stock 410 gears and stock e-lockers will be used.

Hope to have some install pictures, flex shoots late next week.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Adam
Clayton Off Road Mfg.
 
Discussion starter · #133 ·
SweepinJR said:
I just wanted to chime in a bit on your Y link style front longarms.

First, good call on the rubber bushing move to the johnny joint. I had the same issue in my XJ, the forces on them from the y link kinda kills em fast.

Second, be careful now that you solidified it up. By nature when you're flexing that out and one side droops while the other compresses, they're trying to twist the axle in opposing directions. I've seen people rip control arm mounts off the axle. Caster wants to twist forward in droop and backward in compression so when you're flexing out they're fighting eachother, its a pretty good bind with no more rubber bushings in the mix.

I used my XJ and now my WJ in rally racing and my solution in the XJ was to run only the driver side upper on the front with a krawler joint in the upper control arm axle mount. I ran it like this for a few years with good results.
Click to expand...
yeah. i am still running the factory rubber one on the passenger side.. its pretty much gone, so it doesn't do much.

g
 
Discussion starter · #134 ·
Clayton Off Road Mfg said:
The axle we started with is a JK D44 front out of a 07 Rubi. The axles are a good starting point for the money. Tubes are not the strongest in the world, but I am sure you have seen tube and C upgrade kits.

Here is a video of Clayton going over the new WJ high clearance axle bracket kit and some of its features.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDqbjWcpqRA

I don't think you will find a cheaper axle for the money. A Currie fab housing would be nice too, but definitely more money.

The WJ we are working on has our full 6 inch package deal kit, with JK D44 axles front and rear, a Tom Woods SYE kit and CV rear driveshaft, running 33 inch tires. The stock 410 gears and stock e-lockers will be used.

Hope to have some install pictures, flex shoots late next week.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Adam
Clayton Off Road Mfg.
Click to expand...
do you know if the OEM wj knuckles will fit on the jk 44 axle? i thought i heard they would, but not sure. it would be nice to reuse them to save some money.

thanks for the info!
G-
 
#135 ·
LSRGreg said:
do you know if the OEM wj knuckles will fit on the jk 44 axle? i thought i heard they would, but not sure. it would be nice to reuse them to save some money.

thanks for the info!
G-
Click to expand...
I will check on Monday.

If I had to guess, no. The stock WJ D30 axle in our shop has dual piston calipers and cross drilled rotors. Customer asked if he could reuse them. We measured some of those items and they would not swap over. Not sure if we checked knuckles, but seems like something we would have looked into.

Adam
 
Discussion starter · #140 ·
I had some time yesterday to get my Currie Anti-rock sway bar installed. I used my old mounting brackets from my swayloc set up. Welded the currie tube in place, then bolted it on. I added new axle side mounts too. I shortened the side arms by one hole so they wouldn't hit the springs. I do still have to add some bends to them so the arm doesn't hit the pitman arm at full steering lock. Here are some pics:


Axle side mounts:


Mount tube in place:








Pitman arm/ drag link joint hit the arm:


 
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