[faststang1]

I bet ur shocks are fine..u can always remove them and see how much pressure it take to compress them!!
U can alway upgrade to fox's or FOA's..haha

 

[rtingdds]

My Rubicon Express front trackbar bracket just crack at the weld! RE did a really bad jog welding it (really shallow weld). Hopfully they will replace with warrantee. Knowing them, I am not sure, their customer service are usually bad.
I also got a second opinion on my shock. Both my front are bad! their bounce too much & too soft to press down even on the firmest setting. 2 rears are marginal. MX6 really sucks! What are the chances of having 4 bad shocks!!

 

[RockZJ]

I wonder if they are from the same batch. What is the valving on them though? It may be that they arent bad as much as they are not valved for your Jeep. Im not really familiar with MX6's so valving may not even be an option to choose before buying them. Granted they are adjustable but I dont know if they offer different ranges of valving for different applications? I have never had a problem with RE and im sorry you have had a bad experience but just call them and see what they will do. I believe that should be covered under the warranty as its part of the craftsmanship but I could be wrong. It may be in the fine print but please let us know what you find out. If you want to get rid of all 4 shocks let me know

RocKZJ

 

[SirFuego]

What is limiting droop? If it's the shocks, get some limit straps and it should improve their longevity (actually, even if it isn't the shocks, you should probably get some because it's some sort of binding that's limiting droop -- which also wears on other parts). Shocks aren't designed to act as limit straps (or bumpstops -- make sure they aren't bottoming out either).

My old shocks were limit straps and lasted less than a year. My current set has lasted two years and they all seem to be working well -- the major difference is that I'm running limit straps.

 

[faststang1]

My Rubicon Express front trackbar bracket just crack at the weld! RE did a really bad jog welding it (really shallow weld). Hopfully they will replace with warrantee. Knowing them, I am not sure, their customer service are usually bad.
I also got a second opinion on my shock. Both my front are bad! their bounce too much & too soft to press down even on the firmest setting. 2 rears are marginal. MX6 really sucks! What are the chances of having 4 bad shocks!!

RE brackets suck..get a TnT customs one and dont look back!!
just replace all ur shocks and be done with it!!!

 

[rtingdds]

What is limiting droop? If it's the shocks, get some limit straps and it should improve their longevity (actually, even if it isn't the shocks, you should probably get some because it's some sort of binding that's limiting droop -- which also wears on other parts). Shocks aren't designed to act as limit straps (or bumpstops -- make sure they aren't bottoming out either).

My old shocks were limit straps and lasted less than a year. My current set has lasted two years and they all seem to be working well -- the major difference is that I'm running limit straps.

Won't limited strap not giving you the full flex?

 

[SirFuego]

Won't limited strap not giving you the full flex?

Yep. But if a lot of flex means putting too much stress on your shocks or suspension components -- is it really worth it?

When a suspension binds (which is inherent with a radius arm setup or a 4 link rear with a panhard), it not only stresses the bushings and joints, but it also stresses the mounting brackets. The cracked trackbar bracket you have could also have been a side effect of suspension binding due to too much flex. Do you have pictures of the failed trackbar mount?

Note that when I say limit straps, I'm not suggesting that you set them up to only allow two inches of droop or anything like that. I'm just saying to set them up to minimize suspension binding and/or protect the shock from fully extending and taking on the weight of the axle/wheel/tire.

I'd be willing to bet that limit straps won't affect your capabilities at all, but it would only due two things:
1) Lower your RTI score (so just disconnect the limit straps before going up an RTI ramp)
2) Reduce wear and tear on shocks and suspension components

Maybe the shocks you got were junk, maybe the trackbar welds were junk. But I'm just suggesting that it's something to look into because it's possible that your unrestricted flex was the reason for those problems.

 

[faststang1]

Yep. But if a lot of flex means putting too much stress on your shocks or suspension components -- is it really worth it?

When a suspension binds (which is inherent with a radius arm setup or a 4 link rear with a panhard), it not only stresses the bushings and joints, but it also stresses the mounting brackets. The cracked trackbar bracket you have could also have been a side effect of suspension binding due to too much flex. Do you have pictures of the failed trackbar mount?

Note that when I say limit straps, I'm not suggesting that you set them up to only allow two inches of droop or anything like that. I'm just saying to set them up to minimize suspension binding and/or protect the shock from fully extending and taking on the weight of the axle/wheel/tire.

I'd be willing to bet that limit straps won't affect your capabilities at all, but it would only due two things:
1) Lower your RTI score (so just disconnect the limit straps before going up an RTI ramp)
2) Reduce wear and tear on shocks and suspension components

Maybe the shocks you got were junk, maybe the trackbar welds were junk. But I'm just suggesting that it's something to look into because it's possible that your unrestricted flex was the reason for those problems.

it would be a good idea to put limit straps in.u can set them so u just lose a in of down travel..
I've seen a few RE brackets break..I think there junk for the most part..KOR TnT and clayton have the best track bar brackets!!

 

[ZJones]

Just got 4 BFG KM2 tires. Boy! what a difference! KM2 are way.. more civilized than the MTRs. A lot less noise & does not wonders on the freeways like the MTRs. Can't wait to try it out on the rocks. By the way, anyone know how to determind a bad shock?

Pictures!

 

[faststang1]

yep,must have pics!!

 

[rtingdds]

finally I decided to have 4 King 2.5" remote shocks.
My decision came after we talked to Procomp & their staff actually told us not to have Procomp remote shocks because they will not last much longer than the regular MX6.
This should stop my shocks issue almost forever, since they are rebuiltable. (my last set of Procomp MX6s only lasted less then a year.
Will post pics soon.

 

[locked and loaded zj]

forgive me if this was already addressed, but what size is your currie anti rock sway bar for the rear? I desperately need my rig to stop swaying soo much on the highway (or else my wife is making me get rid of it. she cant drive it). 36" bar with 18" arms? Mine has 4.5 inch Clayton off road long arm lift on 35's. 4 linked with triangulated shocks (which im thinkin bout changing back to stock).

 

[faststang1]

forgive me if this was already addressed, but what size is your currie anti rock sway bar for the rear? I desperately need my rig to stop swaying soo much on the highway (or else my wife is making me get rid of it. she cant drive it). 36" bar with 18" arms? Mine has 4.5 inch Clayton off road long arm lift on 35's. 4 linked with triangulated shocks (which im thinkin bout changing back to stock).

when u have ur shocks tilted in like that they dont dampen very good.this set up is better for crawling,u can keep it but u need a better shock like 5100 bilstien monotube shock with there firm valving or u can go back to stock set up!!

 

[locked and loaded zj]

well, my rig is a DD 90% of the time, so i think im gonna go back to a stock setup. thanks man!

 

[rtingdds]

another thing to reduce the sway is to push your rear axle back as much as you can, may need a new shaft or new gas tank skid. So the trail wouldn't want to come forward so easily specially during braking. Have you try that? Have you looked at my previous pics on Currie set up on this thread?

 

[locked and loaded zj]

man, getting another Woods shaft would suck! ha. But i wouldnt mind pushing out the front and rear axle another few inches. As far as the currie setup, i dont think mine would work like that because of the way my upper links are triangulated.

 

[dirtmod0]

this is one of the best lookin ZJ I have seen,very NICE job on this one!!

 

[Rex Havoc]

I'm a cherry to this forum and I have a question for RTINGDDS or anyone else who has experience with this. I have a '98 Grand with 4.5 lift, Clayton long arm, etc. Trouble is, the rear end skates around pretty bad on the highway. It has no track bar and I see that your Grand doesn't either. How do you keep it under from skating? The rear is an 8.8. I refuse to trailer it, I'm a bit of a pureist in that restpect. Drive it to and from the trails, habit I got into from my drag racing days. Anyway, any good info will be much appreciated. By the way, nice Grands out there guys! Nice to see others with the same passion!

 

[rtingdds]

I'm a cherry to this forum and I have a question for RTINGDDS or anyone else who has experience with this. I have a '98 Grand with 4.5 lift, Clayton long arm, etc. Trouble is, the rear end skates around pretty bad on the highway. It has no track bar and I see that your Grand doesn't either. How do you keep it under from skating? The rear is an 8.8. I refuse to trailer it, I'm a bit of a pureist in that restpect. Drive it to and from the trails, habit I got into from my drag racing days. Anyway, any good info will be much appreciated. By the way, nice Grands out there guys! Nice to see others with the same passion!

My RE long arm kits do have rear track bar. extending the wheel base will improve the control of the car. Push you rear axle as far back as possible. you may need a new shaft.

 

[Rex Havoc]

Rear is back about as far as it will go without contacting the fuel tank skid. Had a guy say to check the long arm ends, may be worn, if so hopefully the Clayton ends are rebuildable. Will have to see how to run a track bar, not much room back there. Diff is gusseted along top and the shock mounting has been moved for triangulation. I stuck a small exhaust on it yesterday, previous owner had it terminate at the Y pipe, way obnoxious. Threw on a Thrush Turbo and elbowed it down and out passenger side in front of rear tire. Can hear the stereo now!