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the zj has got over 200000 miles, and whats been replaced is the driverside motor mount, track bar and the drag link assembly (bar and ball joint), and ive put on a skyjacker ss. when i hit a bump in the road there it a thump that i think is coming from the control arms. ive looked under it, and nothing is broken. my best guess is that ive got worn control arm bushings. in the not so distant future im gonna add the RE superflex kit that should fix the dw for good.
 
after reading this I have some input...I worked in a tire express for about 4 years and have done alot of suspension work on lifted trucks.

when installing a lift or doing a axle swap I always recomend that people don't worry as much about pinion angle but to worry about caster. the reason being if you run on the street and the caster is off then you truck will ride bad all the time...while if the pinion angle is off a little it is only affected when off road when you are at lower speeds anyway. also you can be off on your pinion angle by around 10* before you notice any vibration problems. the only thing by being off that 10* is you will notice more wear on the u joints.

the first thing you should do when getting "death wobble" is to shake down ALL stearing components. the way to do this is to have someone turn your stearing wheel just enough to turn the tires and watch all the TRE's and links. also watch your track bar ends while doing this. if you have ever removed the track bar then you will know that when you turn your wheels with out it your front end will want to move out from under it with out the control.

next jack up the front and un load the front end.

then check the ball joint by grabing the top and bottom of the tire and seeing if the is any motion when pushing and pulling on the top and bottom. while it is up check all the suspension link bushings. also while it is up run you hand around the tread of the tire CAREFULY. if you have a busted or shifted belt it is possible that the trie will have steel sticking out around a bubble shaped lump. if this is there replace the tire. if still nothing then take it to the alignment shop and have you tires balanced rotated and put your front end in line.

alot of problems I have seen is poor steering geometry(drag link should match the track bar angle), alighnment issues, tires out of balance, or just plan wore out steering components.

hope this helps!
 
I think what all of you said was pretty much right on target, but as all of you know, every Grand is different. With mine I've got a 00' Grand w/ a 4" tera. and 32" gd yr mtr/s thats been on for a year. About a month after the lift, it started to WOBBLE therefore I replaced the tie rod ends b/c they were worn. Then about 6 months later when it started to WOBBLE again me (and the local off-road shop) decided to take thelogical coarse of action and replace the track-bar(ROKRAWLER) and bushings(KOR), then still WOBBLED. Therefore, we decided to run the dual steering stablizer setup that KOR recomends(one- runs in the factory location; two- runs fr om the drag-link to the chassy). So, to make a long story short, im lost once again and don't know where to go from here. Think im just going to start from square one b/c the jeeps got 155k but runs flawlessly besides the DW. And as all you know as well it definately will scare the SHIT outta you and is just flat out annoying. Any more insight would be nice. Thanks
 
I had them balanced about 3 months ago, havent been off the pavement sense then. What Im thinking is with the aftermarket tire/wheel combo and considering that the WJ's have a high positive offset, thesese wheels just dont stay balanced that long and I just need to find a reliable shop to correctly balance them in my area.
 
even though you had your tires balanced they could have thrown a weight. I have seen that happen before. this usualy happens when someone puts on the wrong weights for your rim. usualy when you buy tires they give you free life time balances. so I would go back and have them spin them again to rule it out.

also have them check to make sure they are not out of round or have any shifted belts while they are spinning on the balancer.
 
go to the wal-mart on scottsville rd. and ask for a guy name Jr. Mills. he is one of the only people I have ever trusted to do tire work on my stuff. that is where I worked at and he will do it right. tell him Daniel Brown set you [smilie=bal_cool.gif]

if you explain what is going on he might even look around and see if he can see anything out of the ordinary. he is ASE certified in suspension so he realy knows what he is talking about
 
:mrgreen: I'm new to this forum, but I too have experienced the devil known as "death wobble". Scared the jeepers out of me. The vehicle behind even slowed down because I was rocking so violently from side to side. I checked all my reg. things to check, then I put 2" coilspacers in and it has never happened again. When it hits, it will surprise the heck out of you, and you will have seconds to react.
 
dw fix

I had severe dw after replacing everything in my front suspension.....until i found out the trackbar bracket on the differential itself was cracked........what a major cluster you know what. I still havent found a new bracket for the diff......i've welded it over and over again and even added 1/4 inch plate to help it. Anyone know where to get a new trackbar bracket for the diff?
 
i have read pretty much every post in this ever growing sticky...

one question though. can worn out REAR CA bushings cause the death wobble?? some one said something about the rear TB being loose and after tightening it up they cured DW. i was under the impression that the DW only had to do with component/s in the front end
 
I can see rear components effecting DW, to a lesser degree. The rear suspension has a direct effect on the front suspension.

After years of on and off DW, I finally have the time/money to fix it. Which kind of sucks, beacuse DW can really wear out components rather quickly.

The list:
1 Unit bearing (DS)
2 TRE's (DI & PI)
1 Axleshaft u-joint (P)
3 Ball joints (replaced all four)
1 Heim at TB Frameside
1 Bushing at TB Axle side (replaced with harder bushing & larger bolt)
3 CA bushings (2 lowers 1 upper, axle side)
Wallowed hole at TB Frame side (fabbed double shear mount)
Wallowed out hole at TB axle side
Out of balance tires (4 new 33 x 10.5 KM2's)
And I still need an alignment! (current suspension setup puts caster at 8* pos. Really need to stop being so lazy and build my LA sys.)

Finally after years of on and off DW I feel confident it is gone. Well over $1k, granted I needed the tires either way. Point is catch it early and save yourself some time and money!
 
I recently changed my lower control arms and it fixed my pretty severe case of DW. After the lift it got way bad so I got to investigating with some help from my pops to figure out the clunking noise i was having up front. i narrowed my issues to be the lca bushings being shot. i quick order for new lcas and its all good now. thanks the info in this site.
 
Did you replace them with factory style arms and bushings, or did you use aftermarket arms?
 
Iroc, I went with aftermarket ones since the price was only alittle higher and the quality was ten fold over stock. the ones i used are from RUK industries and are 5/8s longer than the stockers. There wasnt much information on them from my searches so i figured id be the tester. I am very satisfied with them so far, heavy duty for my DD.
 
I have a pretty bad DW on my 97 grand, I lifted it 3.5, just got new 31x10.5 and replaced both front hub bearing assmeblies in addition to going through and re-torquing all the steering components, everything seems solid. Im thinking the problem is the control arm bushings. Im not sure if its upper or lower but they are stock all around, so Im thinking of just replacing the control arms themselves. First should i replace just the upper or lower or both? Second, if i was to replace both upper and lower would you recommend getting adjustable upper and lower, adjustable upper fixed lower or fixed upper and lower?
 
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