[Jaydubya2003]

F>R swap is only worth doing if you buy aftermarket springs for the front from a decent company (Rusty's 3'' springs are like 100 bucks), going the "junkyard" route will get you STIFF springs that are not meant for our ZJ's. It's one of the only options that lets you build your lift as time and cash permit still on the "cheap" comparatively. Now don't get me wrong to do a F>R with at LEAST doing what is NEEDED so your safe you're puttin out around 250 bucks up front and you'll end up spending a good amount to do it all "right". You can get things like adjustable CA's, better/longer shocks (need these asap), adjustable track-bars and such as you can afford it.

 

[Jaydubya2003]

The following is a copy of one of my posts in another thread...


Do not waste your money on a short arm lift. There's also no need for a 4" lift for 32's or even 33's. Invest your money in Iceland Offroad fender flares. (You could just cleanly cut the fenders but the flares look really good and add coverage to the tires.) Then buy a 2" spacer lift to run up to 33's. I wouldn't even buy shocks unless they're worn out. Stock track bars will work fine. Stock brake lines will work fine. Stock steering will work fine but get an alignment after you install the spacers. Stock driveshafts will work fine.

The larger fender openings will let you stuff the tire farther into the opening and still be able to steer. Your rig will perform much better than a 4" lifted, heavily bumpstopped ZJ with stock fender openings.

Have a blast with it, get some wheelin' experience under your belt. When you're ready to go bigger, upgrade to heavier duty axles and a long arm lift. 4" for 35's and 6" for 37's. The only money wasted will be the $50 or so for the spacers. There's nothing more ridiculous than a circus-wagon of a ZJ on stilts. 4", 5", or even 6" for 31's or even 33's?.... That's just plain silly....


So there you have it in a nutshell... Oh and if you're sticking with 31's, leave it at stock height and cut the fenders (with or without the use of the fender flares). You'll have more suspension travel than a 3" lift with 31's.

I didn't even think about the Iceland flares...ditto this statement a million times!!

 

[Jaydubya2003]

Nope long arms just rant my style they just look and ride funny
Don't get me wrong they are good lifts but short arm lifts r what I'm looking for

I guess the point of what dank is getting at (and many others would agree) is that you're asking for the "expert" advise. And then you're contradicting what the experts are saying about a long arm suspension. There is no way, in gods green earth, that a short arm kit will ride better than a long arm kit. You might think that now with your limited experience...but if there are all these "expert" guys telling you what's up...might be time gain some more experience before you make a blanket statement about something that (from what it sounds like) you don't have a lot of knowledge about.

I was kinda the same way when I was younger, I thought hell I have no problem with a "project" DD rig. So I bought a 77 Scout II...mistake. Learned that lesson a couple more times and now I know what I need out of a rig. To be honest, for mild wheeling doing the Iceland flares and a BB is a GREAT way to go. In the end you'll have more than enough coverage/space for a nice lift and tires later, and you'll be able to fit a decent size tire while you save for a nice lift (short arms if ya want...lol). In the end you're gonna need flares...why not make it the first purchase and have the aggressive look we all know you're after? A stock ZJ without the sway bars flexes pretty damn good anyhow...it'd surprise you. Add some rock sliders, a locker in the rear (and hopefully some learned driver skill), and you'll go more places than most people...hell ad a decent bumper and winch and you'll go everywhere you'd want to.

The Iceland flares can be done by a novice, you just have to take your time, follow the instructions and do a bit of research in terms of the proper procedure of cutting metal and such. And the "hacked up" panels are protected, hidden, and then you've got a nice DURABLE flare.

 

[Jaydubya2003]

Thanks for the replies guys but Im not cutting my jeep to bits then spending 400 some bucks to fit bigger tires without a lift when id rather spend 400 on a good lift and have my fenders in tact. And there's no way in he'll that my dad would let me CUT into my jeep.

So that being said I am going with a IRO 3.5" foundation lift with a droped TB bracket and then hit the junk yard for some lower control arms that will fit the lift but that's only if my dad docent want to just get control arms.

How dose that lift sound please I need the expert advice on this or I can't convince my dad to help me out on the cost lol..
Thanks

One more thing...

The other point people are getting at is that you aren't "cutting your Jeep to bits"...it's a carefully planned and executed procedure. As well as the fact that the 400 or so bucks you'd pay for the flares isn't gonna get you a "good" lift. It's gonna get your a VERY budget lift.

 

[Jaydubya2003]

Ok look I'm not trying to shoot anyone down or say there advise is bad and im not sayin short arms are better then long arms all I'm askin is is the IRO 3.5" foundation lift with a tb drop good because it is a DD and I'm not gona spend a cupple thow for a long arm lift and not use it cause I don't off road that much. All I want is a lil lift to fit my 31s and take it to college in the wv mountains and have a lil fun on weekends and I'm tryin to keep it cheaper so if something breaks nbd il just get a new part.

If all you want to fit is 31's for the foreseeable future while you're in college than do a BB, pound the pinch seam, do a LITTLE trimming around the edges of the bumpers, and you're good to go for 31's. Then if you break something like you're talkin about all your components are STOCK...don't get much easier than that to replace. Or do the Iceland flares. You'll have PLENTY of room for 31's at stock height, and it'll look great for your DD duties 90% of the time, and again not be anything more than stock parts for replacement. Like it was stated before, got some sway bar disconnects and a stock ZJ will flex pretty damn well.

The only thing that's gonna give you "real" usable clearance offroad is tires. You could be up in the air 4'' with 31's and you'll still drag you pumkin across rocks. Until you're up in the air on 33's or bigger, and 5 inches of lift or so your belly is gonna drag...why waste the money on a small lift when you could fit the same size tire with no lift...just some slight modification?

 

[Jaydubya2003]

Ok let's start over.

I'm going to college no job and I want a lift... No cutting grinding drilling welding nuthin like that

So right away there goes fender flare LIFT and long arms. So that leaves me cheap spring spacer+new shocks or the IRO 3.5" foundation f>r lift cause it's in my price range and I can add a lot to it.

So the expert opinions I'm looking for is on the IRO lift and what is needed to keep that lift safe from death wobble or other problems such as tire rub and stuff.

Thank you

Alright man, you seem to be set on this lift so my advice is to get it, install it, and go from there. You might have to do some trimming to fit 31's even with this lift, each rig is a little different (they say it right in the listing for the lift). Same goes with the death wobble issues, some guys can do a lift and have no issues, some guys can't. Death wobble more often than not comes down to the condition of ALL your bushings in the front end. Adding a lift kit puts a lot more "stress" on all of the joints your suspension has. To sum it up though, the "Foundation Kit" is a good starting point though.

All I'm trying to say is you can do the same result you're shooting for with less money, just have to be willing to be a bit more creative. I'm not saying take a salzall and chop two inches out of your fenders...what I'm talkin about to fit 31's is MINIMAL stuff at best. Stuff you can do in your drive way with 50 bucks worth of tools and supply's (if you have to buy them) and a weekend. A BB, pounded pinch seam, SLIGHT trimming of fender line and plastic bumpers, and you'll fit 31's (you don't even have to trim the fender line unless you plan on stuffing the tires with 31's, if you're just puddle jumpin, and "muddin" it you wont even need to). Hell you can squeeze 33's...with enough trimming...lol ;-) (just kidding man)

 

[Jaydubya2003]

btw...none of the options listed by anyone required welding...lol

Some cutting...yes, some grinding...oh yeah, but no welding "required" for any of these options. ;-)