[95cherokeekid]

I have been looking for a 3 in lift for my 95 GCL V8 for a while now doing a lot of research on 3 in spring lift, BB lift and F>R lifts. I cant seem to find what I'm looking for. I don't off road much but i want a higher stance with out doing a lot of mods to the suspension while also keeping the price down.

FYI I'm already runnin 31s on it without a lift and not that much rub.

I know this has already been answered but I'm still confused on what to do.
So my question is witch is the better buy 3" Spring Lift, Spacer Lift, or Front to Rear Lift. Also what brand and other parts are needed?

I also have a Salvage yard near buy where I could get parts for a F>R lift but I have no idea what kind of springs would fit and give me a good ride.
And I was lookin into the 3" Fat Bobs but I've heard mixed reviews.

Thanks

 

[wildspear]

To me it seems about the only thing your sure about is being unsure. I think you need to do some more research (even use the search function) and decide what you want. Many want to do the cheapest lift they can get and basicly you get what you pay for. Decide what you want and get the best kit you can, not the cheapest, not the most expensive, but the best for you.

 

[shayne_354]

Hey,not bad! I like how you said that. Pick a dollar amount you are willing to put in it, then get the best you can for the money. I could have went higher but it would have sucked. I waited 2 yrs to do long arms. The f<r rides kinda rough. get 3" springs and at least front lower c-arms. You can get adjustable wich is best, but they do have non that are sized for the lift you are doing. The reason for the front arms is to allow a propper alignment and to put the axle back where it should be. You can get away without doing the rears. You can look on ebay and companies like IronMan and ARC Fab sell adjustable arms that are made strong at a good price. I'm running ARC all around. They even built my long arms to my specs cheaper then I could buy the parts to do it myself! As for springs, at 3" they are all about the same. Go with the cheapest you can find. Good lick and I hope that helps ya some.

 

[Jaydubya2003]

F>R swap is only worth doing if you buy aftermarket springs for the front from a decent company (Rusty's 3'' springs are like 100 bucks), going the "junkyard" route will get you STIFF springs that are not meant for our ZJ's. It's one of the only options that lets you build your lift as time and cash permit still on the "cheap" comparatively. Now don't get me wrong to do a F>R with at LEAST doing what is NEEDED so your safe you're puttin out around 250 bucks up front and you'll end up spending a good amount to do it all "right". You can get things like adjustable CA's, better/longer shocks (need these asap), adjustable track-bars and such as you can afford it.

 

[CircusFinger]

I think I understand what you're trying to say. I've been there.
Didnt have much money, wanted a lift, and wanted it now.
Here's how that scenario almost ALWAYS plays out.
By the time you get a "budget" lift, and then have to order, add, and install all the parts the lift didnt come with that you will need to get the Jeep to ride straight and smooth ( adjustable trac bar, adjustable lower control arms) , you willl have spent more time and money than if you had just bought a good comprehensive lift to begin with.

So even though its probably the last thing you want to hear, my advice (from experience) is........wait.
Wait until you have had a chance to save up the money to do it right the first time. You'll end up with a higher quality, more comprehensive, and ultimately more capable and safe lift. Not to mention, even though you said you dont do much off-roading, once you have a good lift you will have the option to do some and may find yourself doing more than you think.

 

[shayne_354]

I collected parts for over a year before lifting mine. I had the same parts as a $1,400 lift for around $500 Granted, two arms, one pair of springs, and brake lines were used. Still, I didnt have to spend much and didnt have to do it at one time. Patience Daniel!

 

[wildspear]

Patience???? What is this strange word you speak of? I know not of this word "Patience".

 

[Northwoods 5.9]

The following is a copy of one of my posts in another thread...


Do not waste your money on a short arm lift. There's also no need for a 4" lift for 32's or even 33's. Invest your money in Iceland Offroad fender flares. (You could just cleanly cut the fenders but the flares look really good and add coverage to the tires.) Then buy a 2" spacer lift to run up to 33's. I wouldn't even buy shocks unless they're worn out. Stock track bars will work fine. Stock brake lines will work fine. Stock steering will work fine but get an alignment after you install the spacers. Stock driveshafts will work fine.

The larger fender openings will let you stuff the tire farther into the opening and still be able to steer. Your rig will perform much better than a 4" lifted, heavily bumpstopped ZJ with stock fender openings.

Have a blast with it, get some wheelin' experience under your belt. When you're ready to go bigger, upgrade to heavier duty axles and a long arm lift. 4" for 35's and 6" for 37's. The only money wasted will be the $50 or so for the spacers. There's nothing more ridiculous than a circus-wagon of a ZJ on stilts. 4", 5", or even 6" for 31's or even 33's?.... That's just plain silly....


So there you have it in a nutshell... Oh and if you're sticking with 31's, leave it at stock height and cut the fenders (with or without the use of the fender flares). You'll have more suspension travel than a 3" lift with 31's.

 

[GreenMachine]

yeah, in this scenario i would limit it to a 2" BB, or do a full on LA kit if you wanna go higher. reason being, you dont wheel much, so road handling should be a main concern.
the full SA kits are fine for wheeling, where clearance is a major concern, and you dont mind compromising speed and handling on road for the increased off road capability.

 

[Jaydubya2003]

The following is a copy of one of my posts in another thread...


Do not waste your money on a short arm lift. There's also no need for a 4" lift for 32's or even 33's. Invest your money in Iceland Offroad fender flares. (You could just cleanly cut the fenders but the flares look really good and add coverage to the tires.) Then buy a 2" spacer lift to run up to 33's. I wouldn't even buy shocks unless they're worn out. Stock track bars will work fine. Stock brake lines will work fine. Stock steering will work fine but get an alignment after you install the spacers. Stock driveshafts will work fine.

The larger fender openings will let you stuff the tire farther into the opening and still be able to steer. Your rig will perform much better than a 4" lifted, heavily bumpstopped ZJ with stock fender openings.

Have a blast with it, get some wheelin' experience under your belt. When you're ready to go bigger, upgrade to heavier duty axles and a long arm lift. 4" for 35's and 6" for 37's. The only money wasted will be the $50 or so for the spacers. There's nothing more ridiculous than a circus-wagon of a ZJ on stilts. 4", 5", or even 6" for 31's or even 33's?.... That's just plain silly....


So there you have it in a nutshell... Oh and if you're sticking with 31's, leave it at stock height and cut the fenders (with or without the use of the fender flares). You'll have more suspension travel than a 3" lift with 31's.

I didn't even think about the Iceland flares...ditto this statement a million times!!

 

[rexxiboy90807]

@ 95cherokeekid, You are not alone when it comes to confusion, In 2006 when I got my 1994, I was confuse with what to do with 3.5" of lift. I was not sure which way to go SA or LA. LA was almost impossible at that time, but to make it short I'm glad I waited and went for the LA in 2010. Yes 4 years, but my point is that the question, what is the primary use for my ZJ, well it was simple 95 percent highway and 5 percent offroad. So If you want comfortable highway ride, LA is like a dream ride with 3.5" springs. After 1 year of LA, driving habits change, now I feel that I would like to frequent the trails and lockers is now my wish list, so the story goes.

 

[95cherokeekid]

Thanks for the help guys. I am going to have to wait for my lift cause im going into college withouta gob so its gona take a while to save up. I did a bunch more research and long arms dont sound like the choice for me cause its too invasive on the vehicle cause im trying to keep it so if i want i can go back to stock easily. I think what im going to do is either the Rough Country 4" adjustable short arm lift witch seems like you can add on to it down the line. Or the Rough Country 3.5" lift without adjustable control arms and just save and get new adjustable arms down the road.

I would like the Rubicon Express 3.5" lift But does anyone know why it dosent come with shocks??

Also a new ? that involves lifting. I heard that if you go higher than 3.5 you'll need a new drive line or transfer case drop is this true??

Thanks

 

[wildspear]

It really depends on your rig. Some can do a lift and not have any problems with vibes. Doing a transfer case drop is a stop gap measure (my opinion), but it does seem to work for many, I have it on my Cherokee. Best thing to do is take your time and save for a quality kit and the rest will fall into place. Some kits come with out shocks to lower the price of the kit.

 

[DankNesS]

Aw the good ol lift thread... So redundant but I can't resist adding my two cents. Nwoods I have nothing but. Respect but couldn't disagree more about Iceland flares. I know you have em or might even be a part of the company but no way is that the first move. 600 bucks and all u have is flares? Something a sawzaw can do for free? Granted not everyone likes the cut look but 33s to start learning how to drive very well could = smashed 600 dollar flares. Don't get me wrong to each their own. I think the best way to go that also is easy to add to is a f to rear spring swap add an inch and a quarter spacer in rear RE or what ever spring u like @ 3.5. This is a good start of lift to get the rig up, beginners tend to high center time to time. The kit can be just like that but I'd recommend KevinsOffroad or similar TB bracket w a jks or similar adjustable trackbar. That centers the axle but is also the most expensive part of the lift. You COULD stop there no biggie but I'd encourage shocks and jks or similar sway bar disconnects. Control arms are not needed at this point- hammer down pinch seams and on 31s you will be greatly improved Offroad w minimal on road loss. Hence encouraging shocks. Short arms on road are not dreadful as most think they probably heard stories or they them selves had crap shocks. Spend the cash on shocks = smoother ride right? Same for good front springs no jy diving get a good brand.

At that point 31s will be good but 32s or 33s will be better... To upgrade shoes you'll need lower front CAs for certain uppers are a good idea to add shortly after to get the axle forward. @3.5 lift it isn't a must to have an adj rear track bar but a good idea especially if higher is in the cards for later. Another add on front brake lines not a must @ 3.5 but if u go bigger they are.
Driveline is cherry tcase drop is not for Zjs and a waste of money. Drive shafts are good even at higher.

So basically save 750$~ get good springs 3.5 for front spacer front springs to rear TrackBar bracket and adj TB and GOOD shocks should also cover disconnects and maybe have some to spare. View my build the beginning I rocked that and had a blast! Later got used upper and lower front control arms pushed axle forward slapped on 33s then added 2 inch spacer went o 35s adding as I went a long. Iceland flares for 3.5 lift and 33-35s down the road is a good alternative to cutting and trimming like I did. Note stock Dana 30 and 35s don't like big tires so building your axles for your style and preference is key. Welcome to the addiction! Its different for us all if we knew we wanted rock krawlers we woulda bought a buggy lol instead we build em out of family wagons! Ha ha love it tho

 

[95cherokeekid]

Thanks again guys. Once again I did a lot more research and figured this is a pretty cheep and good lift to add onto in the future someday.

I decided on a IRO 3.5 Foundation Lift. I can then add nitro shocks cause there cheap and the rear springs that come with the kit if it makes a difference.Id do the F>R swap deal if I dont get the rear springs. I will get a front TB drop with the kit right away to fix that problem rather then suffer. Also the first thing on the wish list after the lift will be rear adjustable lower control arms or should i get both front or rear?

 

[DankNesS]

Front over rear for sure. Track bar drop? Is there a new track bar adjustable? That is a key component for any lift over 2 inches

 

[DankNesS]

Front over rear lower adj CAs.. I'd do front springs to rear if it saves you some loot at least for now

 

[DankNesS]

Any doubt u have about front springs to rear look in the build threads mine is NesSsDank I'm at 5.5 w RE 3.5s up front stock fronts in rear w 2inch spacers all around... My short arms even flexed sexy. Now long arm is night and day but the stock front in rear have yielded zero draw backs for what its worth

 

[Northwoods 5.9]

Dank... You have to pay more attention to the posts, buddy...

"Invest your money in Iceland Offroad fender flares. (You could just cleanly cut the fenders but the flares look really good and add coverage to the tires.) "


The flares aren't necessary, but it is hard to cut as high as the front flares allow and still make it look good. I believe suspensions should be as low as functionally possible with as big a tire as possible. That's just my opinion amongst a forum full of opinions.
I have no affiliation with the company... Just a satisfied customer.

By the way... Aren't YOU going for low lift/big tires? How do you that?... Cut metal.

 

[DankNesS]

i did read and and thinnk you took me out of context- i also said down the line to stuff bigger tires into a shorter lift the flares are a great idea. trying to do a low budget first lift fender flares for me wouldnt so much satisfy my desires. yes low lift big tires i cut the piss out of my fenders but also really dig the look over fender flares- that at this point would be a waste of money via dove nose underway. its a lot of coin for the first buy is my point get it up a lil bit adj tb som ca's then maybe flares. no beef brother your rig is saweet i also i said i respectfully disagree implying your opinion is valid and credible. sorry i also only reply on my phone for the most part ie horrible banter no proof read etc etc