[85IrocZ-28]

I can't find anything in the right lug pattern to match my current wheels. I found one on ebay in the 5x135mm lug pattern, and a set of 15 inch wheels in the ZJ bolt pattern. Hopefully I will eventually find one. I guess I will just keep searching for one all winter, hopefully I can find one before spring.

 

[85IrocZ-28]

I had the day off, so I spend the first half of the day messing with the Jeep.

In anticipation of a winch in the future, I finally cut the fairlead hole in the front bumper. It is hidden most of the time anyways, the front license plate covers it. But It felt good to cut a hole in it and hope I will have the $ for a winch soon.

I was sick of looking at ugly wiper arms that had the paint coming off of them, so I pulled out the rattle can and fixed that issue.

Then it was on to the rock lights. I installed the LED's a couple of months back, but hadn't run the wires yet. The switch and wire were already run out under the hood, so I just had to install the relay. I took some time to add wire covers and clean up the look a little bit. The LED's work great, and will provide the perfect amount of light for wheeling. They allow me to see the ground very well, but aren't blindingly bright. They will also be good for working under the Jeep when it is dark out.

 

[WJ 2000]

Nice Work ""Will'' I watched your vid from Moab I bet it was a lot of fun .
I'm have'n fuel issue's the main inlet from the tank to the fuel filter, this little
metal quick disconnect, was sucking air causing a lean burn condition, Luckly
it was'nt bad enough to blow the motor. Wow'' I have only 6,000 miles on the
new stroker 4.6, but fixing the problem is going to really suck I found the right
quick disconnect from Napa, in case if you ever need one. The first step is to
find some one els to fix it'' LoL''' But really you need is a heat gun and heat up
the shrink rap that hold's the connector and pull it off, does that sound easy''
Well'' that's what I'm going to do . Wish me good luck''

 

[Jeep ZJ]

I had the day off, so I spend the first half of the day messing with the Jeep.

In anticipation of a winch in the future, I finally cut the fairlead hole in the front bumper. It is hidden most of the time anyways, the front license plate covers it. But It felt good to cut a hole in it and hope I will have the $ for a winch soon.

I was sick of looking at ugly wiper arms that had the paint coming off of them, so I pulled out the rattle can and fixed that issue.

Then it was on to the rock lights. I installed the LED's a couple of months back, but hadn't run the wires yet. The switch and wire were already run out under the hood, so I just had to install the relay. I took some time to add wire covers and clean up the look a little bit. The LED's work great, and will provide the perfect amount of light for wheeling. They allow me to see the ground very well, but aren't blindingly bright. They will also be good for working under the Jeep when it is dark out.

omg. i need a parts list, what relays to use, and where you got those LED strips. thanks

 

[Lifelong Jeeper]

I agree. I need the parts list too. Where did you get the LED's?

 

[fuzzy59]

Everything you do on your jeep comes out clean as hell. Nice work IrocZ.

 

[85IrocZ-28]

Thanks Fuzzy!

Lifelong and Jeep ZJ, the LED's were purchased on Ebay. They are waterproof 12v LED's strips that come with 3M adhesive tape on the back. You can cut it every 2 or 3 inches, and solder in new wires. This allows you to have the lengths cut like needed, and you can make multiple lengths out of the roll. The roll of LED's I bought was 5 meters long, and cost $17.99.

My parts list is as follows:
- LED light strips $17.99 on Ebay
- 40 amp relay $6.99 (this is overkill, they were out of 30 amp relays) AutoZone
- 4 feet of wire with an integrated fuse (20 Amp fuse) I had this leftover from my fog lights
- Wire crimp ends that clip onto the relay $4.99 at NAPA
- Dash Switch $6.99 at NAPA
- About 30 feet of wire (I had a 100 foot roll, so I didn't buy any)
- A round crimp wire attachment to attach to the battery post (I had some laying around)

The switch in the interior triggers a 12v wire that runs out to the relay. The relay is grounded on the firewall directly behind the relay. The relay is connected to the battery with a wire containing an inline fuse. Then multiple wires from the relay to each of the LED strips, one on each side of the rock slider, and one along the radiator support. There is a power wire run to each strip, but each is grounded right where they are. They have such a low current draw, that I tested them with a 9v battery.

I was looking at these LED's online, and found that another user was doing the same thing. So I learned from him. I will link to his thread as it contains so much more info that I listed here.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/omelets-led-rock-lights-1243906/

I have an LED strip on the rear tank, but didn't wire it in as it didn't really seem necessary.

More pics of the switch can be found a few pages back:

 

[85IrocZ-28]

We decided to spend Thanksgiving in Moab. This was our 4th trip down this year, and it is time to give the Jeep some love now. I need to rebuild most of the control arm joints, and take care of a few other bumps and bruises.

I have a ton of video to go through, but here is an intro...

 

[shawn.m]

thats funny!

 

[85IrocZ-28]

Here is another one with the guys I wheeled with from the Utah JeepCrew:

Another quick vid from Golden Crack, my wife kept "encouraging" him to jump it.

 

[johnsjeep]

85IrocZ I have been on JU for a while and just signed up for this forum as well, just had a couple of free hours at work and went through this entire forum. Amazing WJ!!!! I am going to be doing a 6" on mine soon, are you still running the NV 247 TC or did you swap to the 242?

 

[85IrocZ-28]

Still running the 247. I wanted to get the 242, but I think I have changed my mind. I really enjoy how well this thing handles the snowy roads in the winter, and in 4lo they are all the same. What kit are you going with?

...and finally...I picked up my front shocks from 4wp. I ordered them in September, it is about time.

EDIT: FALSE ALARM - The shocks were stem to stem, not stem to loop. Took them back today, the waiting game begins again.

 

[85IrocZ-28]

Here is another video from Fins N Things. My wife is starting to scare me, she has no fear behind the wheel. She even went up a section after I said I wouldn't dare try it.

 

[johnsjeep]

Well I would like to go with IRO and do a long arm kit, but since there really aren't many places to wheel where I am, and I don't have $2,400 for that, I am going to do a 4" X-Flex and see how I like that with the lower adjustable CA's. I have heard some people keeping their 2" BB on also with that for a total of 6". Not 100% sure yet. Any advise?

 

[85IrocZ-28]

Stick with the 4 inch kit if you are going for looks and mild wheeling, you will be happy with it. Do NOT go over 4.5 inches with short arms. I know others have done it, but it is a bad idea. the angles on the arms are very severe, and the ride will be terrible on and offroad. With that high angle, you will also go through control arm bushings much more quickly and your more likely to tear off a control arm bracket. I am not saying it will happen, but it would be much more likely.

The largest problem with going over 4 inches on short arms on a WJ is the rear wishbone. You will max the ball joint out on the upper a-arm (wishbone). The other problem with buying a 4 inch kit is that many of your parts will not give you the proper geometry. The new sway bar end links will not be long enough, the control arms will not be of proper length (the adjustable arms will help with this, but you really need adjustable uppers as well to keep your pinion angles correct), and your shocks will not be long enough (unless you have them substitute longer shocks.

Once you go over 6 inches, you will also need to pay attention to driveline lengths and strength. Do you have a double cardan front driveshaft, or a repezza?

One last piece of advice ... if you are thinking you ultimately want to go up to 6 inches, keep saving your $ and get a long arm kit. I have seen MANY people that go from a BB, to a short arm kit, to a long arm kit. In the long run, you will be saving money if you avoid buying the short arm kit and just go long arms. If you are sure you can live with 4 inches and be satisfied, then just do the short arm kit. Don't think about what you want now or what your pocket book can afford right now, think about what you want your jeep to be in the future. Then save and prepare for what you ultimately want.

 

[johnsjeep]

I appreciate the input, my goal is to get a second jeep for a daily driver and use this for offroad use only. I think I will just do the 4" for now and see how I like it, if I were to move somewhere like UT or CO then I would probably want that additional 2". I have seen the jeep in your videos on JU before, the black jeep, do you know what set up he is running?

I currently have the Rzeppa shaft but before I lift it I am going to swap out yokes and go to the double cardan.

 

[85IrocZ-28]

Are you talking about Akro? If so, below is a link to his build thread. He is a great guy to wheel with. He ran a 4 inch kit, and now has a 6 inch Claytons Long Arm that was installed a few months before our July run.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/akros-2001-wj-build-1132013/

Beware, it is over 150 pages.

 

[85IrocZ-28]

My favorite pic of our last trip (my new avatar):

I received some additional pics from Chris from our trip, here is one of the good flex pics:

 

[RedlegWJ]

Yeah, they aughta replace the top picture of the websight with your last one there. How are the led's holding up? Any flickering, dimming, etc?

 

[shawn.m]

.

[qoute]: FALSE ALARM - The shocks were stem to stem, not stem to loop. Took them back today, the waiting game begins again.[/QUOTE]

why not convert them to loop to loop? gives you much better options