From start to finish today it was only 1 hour. Maybe I'll finally get those Prothane motor mounts in this weekend. I never thought that it could be that easy, but sure enough I just pulled down the oil pan, unbolted the pump and rear cap, then slipped out the old one from around the crank and slid the new one in. Piece of cake. I recommend this to anyone with an oil leak or an engine over 150k.
Rear Main Seal = Easy
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AndyZJ
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From start to finish today it was only 1 hour. Maybe I'll finally get those Prothane motor mounts in this weekend. I never thought that it could be that easy, but sure enough I just pulled down the oil pan, unbolted the pump and rear cap, then slipped out the old one from around the crank and slid the new one in. Piece of cake. I recommend this to anyone with an oil leak or an engine over 150k.
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the lift is a big help, i tired to do mine that way before the lift and was unable to get the oil pan completly out, i would have had to take the axle out or the exhaust. my plan was to cut the drivers side of the y-pipe off and then sleve it back on with clamps....
but i really need to get under there and do mine it really bothers me, it is a (well was a) brand new engine, i think it was assymbled with either a defective one or they put it in backwards... either way it really pissed me off and there was no way i was going to pull the eninge back out again to fix it.
btw andy, nice post because i was scared to get all the way into there and find out it wasnt possible.
but i really need to get under there and do mine it really bothers me, it is a (well was a) brand new engine, i think it was assymbled with either a defective one or they put it in backwards... either way it really pissed me off and there was no way i was going to pull the eninge back out again to fix it.
btw andy, nice post because i was scared to get all the way into there and find out it wasnt possible.
You have a point that the suspension lift and the shop lift helped a lot. I tried to do it on my previous Jeep and it was a real pain. I did get the pan off though just by taking down the exhaust Y-pipe. I forgot to mention that I had to do that on this one too, but since like was already said, the lift dropped the axle down far enough that I only had to unbolt the exhaust from the manifolds and pull it down a bit to slide the pan out.
The shop manual I looked at called for between 6-7 hours for this job!! I was shocked.
The shop manual I looked at called for between 6-7 hours for this job!! I was shocked.
Been there done that...Same scenario, just harder to get clearance for the longer pan. A Big Jack and stands to clear the axle when you drop the pan, and drop the exhast down. Same 2-piece seal to replace, just don't put it in backwards like i did the first time. Had it all done twice in about 3 hrs.
Right, the rear main seal on Mopar engines that Jeeps got have an internal seal. On Chevrolets and Fords (I've done both) you have to remove the tranny and the flywheel/flexplate to access the rear 1 piece seal.
jrior001, what happened when put it in backwards? Did oil just piss out everywhere?
jrior001, what happened when put it in backwards? Did oil just piss out everywhere?
Interesting...very interesting. My father and I both have rear main leaks on our ZJs and we have been dreading the tranny drop procedure just to do that.
Interstingly, the seal between tranny and t-case leaks too commonly, and that also needs to be replaced on mine. But the ability to do the rear main if you want by just dropping the oil pan...that's very interesting.
Interstingly, the seal between tranny and t-case leaks too commonly, and that also needs to be replaced on mine. But the ability to do the rear main if you want by just dropping the oil pan...that's very interesting.
Yeah, its an internal setup like Andy said. On the 4.0's, im unfamiliar with the 5.2 setup (as of right now), it is a two piece setup that you install. It isnt too bad, I did it on my XJ a few years back and ill be doing it on my current 4.0 before it goes into my YJ. Andy, your just faster than all of us apparently haha! I would assume the 5.2 rear main is a two piece as well given it can be done on the inside of the motor without dropping the trans (one piece setup). Sounds like a plan, ill probably be doing this at some point on my new 5.2
RockZJ
RockZJ
4.0 Rear Main Oil Seal & One-piece Pan Gasket
1988 Comanche 4x4 w/4L; just did mine Saturday. Stock config, unbolt shocks, sway bar, steering damper, starter, lift and place jacks at frame rail rearward of l.c.a. Axle must "hang" at full extension w/ tires off ground. Unbolt pan, oil pump, slide pan rearward, unbolt rear main bearing cap, GENTLY! drive our upper half of seal from block/crank just enough to grasp the protruding end (hemostats worked perfectly) and remove. CAREFULLY! reinstall upper half with large lip facing forward until seated flush w/block. Install lower half in cap w/small amount of RTV where ears seat into cap and upper meets lower. Install cap and bolts and torque to 80ftlb. Slide pan into position and reinstall oil pump. Oil pump gasket will likely be destroyed so I made a new one before reinstalling. Reverse procedure accordingly. Oh yeah, ensure that all traces of old gasket material is completely removed from the oil pan and block mating surfaces before reassembling.
Enjoy the drive...
Joe
1988 Comanche 4x4 w/4L; just did mine Saturday. Stock config, unbolt shocks, sway bar, steering damper, starter, lift and place jacks at frame rail rearward of l.c.a. Axle must "hang" at full extension w/ tires off ground. Unbolt pan, oil pump, slide pan rearward, unbolt rear main bearing cap, GENTLY! drive our upper half of seal from block/crank just enough to grasp the protruding end (hemostats worked perfectly) and remove. CAREFULLY! reinstall upper half with large lip facing forward until seated flush w/block. Install lower half in cap w/small amount of RTV where ears seat into cap and upper meets lower. Install cap and bolts and torque to 80ftlb. Slide pan into position and reinstall oil pump. Oil pump gasket will likely be destroyed so I made a new one before reinstalling. Reverse procedure accordingly. Oh yeah, ensure that all traces of old gasket material is completely removed from the oil pan and block mating surfaces before reassembling.
Enjoy the drive...
Joe
haha,me too,my 4.0 needs it but i keep putting it off cause it's my DD and i just know,with my luck,it will turn into a 2 day job somehowSomeone want to do mine? I've got a 4 slow and 5.2 who need it done
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936 Posts
the 5.2 is a two peice as well rock... and as for the t-case/tranny seal, that is easy as long as your feeling most muscular at the time, just pull the t case down and glob on the RTV and your good to go.
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