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ZJeepy

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
What is the best or strongest to use when replaceing/upgrading the front axle shafts & u-joints on a D30? My u-joints are shot and need to be replaced very soon. I am running 35'' tires.

TIA
 
I like to use the Spicer OEM u joints rather than any of the aftermarket hi strength joints like CTM, etc.

The theory is that the ujoint is the weak point in the axle shaft and if seomthing breaks it will be the joint (easier and cheaper to fix that way.) The reality unfortunately is that this isn't always the way it happens but with the CTMs (e.g.) its almost sure to be a shaft that goes when something breaks...

GL,
Jay
 
strength and dana 30 shouldn't be in the same sentance. Let alone the 30 short. Swap in the HP 30 and send for warn, supirior or whoever makes good strong shafts. Any decent shop (or even you) can grind the welds off of the stock xj shaft and switch out the ABS toner ring onto the new shaft. Very true that you want the u-joint to be the weakest part but not if the weakest part breaks after 20 minutes of wheeling. Just remeber... CTMs will be the last u-joint that you will ever buy.. haha good luck

Oh yea once apon a time either randy's, currie or SOMEBODY sold a really trick kit for the d30. It was an ARB carrier with dana 44 shafts that were machined to fit d3o tubes. THe ARB was bored to fit the shafts and either came with 30 or 40 splines. Does anybody remeber this kit. It was out last year but never became a hit.
 
i dunno about it being a kit but ive seen a couple places advirtising the use of an ARB with the D44 shafts in a D30. seemed a little expensive for my tastes.
 
Super 30 kit is what I heard it called and I was taling to a large gear and Locker company can't remeber the name but anyway it was d44 shafts u-joint shafts, ARB locker.
 
JayH said:
I like to use the Spicer OEM u joints rather than any of the aftermarket hi strength joints like CTM, etc.

The theory is that the ujoint is the weak point in the axle shaft and if seomthing breaks it will be the joint (easier and cheaper to fix that way.) The reality unfortunately is that this isn't always the way it happens but with the CTMs (e.g.) its almost sure to be a shaft that goes when something breaks...

GL,
Jay
The reality is that statement was made for driveshaft u-joints. When they break, they don't grenade the shaft yokes. This is NOT true for front axle u-joints... There has never in the history of front axle u-joints breaking ... been a time when the u-joint broke and didn't take at least one of the shaft yokes with it!

You want a u-joint to be the "fusable link" in the system...TRUE... but make it a driveshaft u-joint. Use Spicer solid 5-760X in the front axles and a hardened shaft like Warn or Moser. Moser doesn't warrantee theirs, Warn does.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
rmwc said:
The reality is that statement was made for driveshaft u-joints. When they break, they don't grenade the shaft yokes. This is NOT true for front axle u-joints... There has never in the history of front axle u-joints breaking ... been a time when the u-joint broke and didn't take at least one of the shaft yokes with it!

You want a u-joint to be the "fusable link" in the system...TRUE... but make it a driveshaft u-joint. Use Spicer solid 5-760X in the front axles and a hardened shaft like Warn or Moser. Moser doesn't warrantee theirs, Warn does.
That sounds pretty logical. I understand the issue with the u-joints being the weak link in the system to protect other areas... and would be better that weakness be in the front drive shaft.

I really just wanna get this done soon so I can get out and wheel again. :thumbsup:
 
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