Coming soon! Have to get the pics uploaded
Jeep Boy
I will show you how to change the transmission fluid in your 45RFE/545RFE and install the TransGo 45RFE-HD2 shift kit. This kit comes with instructions but they do not provide good detail so I will shed some more light.
Things to have before starting:
-8mm socket wrench with extension
-T20 or T40 Torx bit screwdriver or wrench
-Flat head screwdriver or plastic putty knife (plastic preferred)
-A roll of shop towels.
-Funnel that fits into your transmission dipstick tube
-A drip pan capable of holding more than 7 quarts of fluid.
-7 quarts of ATF fluid. (8 if installing shift kit)
-New transmission filters (main and spin-on), pan gasket, and main filter pump seal (comes with new main filter).
If also installing the shift-kit:
-All of the above plus…
-A foil turkey pan to place the valve body in when working on it. Size should be around 20”x14”.
-TransGo 45RFE-HD2 Shift kit
Also make sure you do this on a calm, warm day. You don’t want wind blowing any dirt into the open transmission.
Step 1
Using the 8mm socket wrench loosen all the transmission pan bolts, there are 15 total. Have the drip pan ready in case some fluid starts dripping out.
Proceed to unscrew a quarter of the way the bolts marked by the red pointers (see pic below). The Blue Line marks where you will pour the transmission fluid from (see pic).
![Image]()
The pan doesn’t have a plug so this is the best way I found to remove the transmission fluid. Stick a flathead screwdriver or plastic putty knife (plastic will prevent scratches) between the old gasket and the pan. If using a screwdriver then be careful to keep the flathead level so you don’t gouge the surfaces.
Have your drip pan in place and gently pry the pan down until fluid starts pouring out of the corner and hold till the fluid slows.
Then proceed to loosen the bolts more, pry farther and repeat till most of the fluid is out. You will get more fluid out if your Jeep is on ramps because of the angle. Remove all bolts except for two, each one in a corner, hold the pan up with one hand, remove the other two bolts with the other and lower the pan to the ground keeping it level…there is still more fluid in it. Dump the rest into your drip pan.
Here’s what you will see with the pan off…
![Image]()
Step 2
Remove the Main Filter by removing the Torx retaining screw shown below and pulling the filter down. Be prepared for it to suddenly give way and maybe dump some fluid.
![Image]()
Also make sure the seal comes off with it as shown below.
![Image]()
If not just reach up to where the filter tube stuck into and pull out the seal out of the opening as shown below. (Valve Body highlighted in blue)
![Image]()
Step 3
Next remove the spin-on filter as you would an engine oil filter. There is a coupler that goes between the tranny and filter. If your new filter comes with a new coupler discard the old one.
Spin-On Filter Coupler…
![Image]()
As you are working tranny fluid will continue to drip from the valve body. Have your drip pan positioned to catch as much as you can. Some fluid will get on the ground regardless as this is a pretty messy job. The more fluid you let drip the more you will replace with new fluid and the less fluid there will be in the valve body when you work on it. (If you are going to do so)
Step 4
In the meantime clean your transmission pan and remove the old gasket. Gently remove all the old gasket or sealant from both the pan and transmission seal surface. Also clean the magnet in your pan. Place the clean magnet in the same place in your pan so you don’t lose it.
----If you are just changing your filters and fluid then skip to Step 12----
Set aside all your work so far and get ready to remove the valve body.
Step 5
Before you drop the valve body disconnect the main transmission wiring harness. This harness is on the driver’s side of the transmission next to the shift linkage. This was a PITA because the connector has this fancy lock mechanism on it and there’s really room for only one hand. Shown in the picture below is where the lock lever is located.
![Image]()
You have to push the lock lever away from the gray handle then pull the handle down and away from the connector. The connector will unlock and start to pull away.
Step 6
Proceed to remove the 8mm bolts marked with arrows in the picture below from the valve body leaving a couple just half way in to hold the VB for you. There are six bolts total.
![Image]()
Then as you did with the fluid pan, use one hand to hold the VB and the other to remove the remaining bolts. The VB is not really heavy but still has a good weight to it so be ready for it. Let the VB separate from the transmission and set it in your foil turkey pan. DO NOT DROP IT! The removed VB is shown below. As you can see my foil pan was a little too small!
![Image]()
Step 7
The next three pictures show the shift kit we are going to install...
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
This next pic shows the parts included in the kit (with the exception of a big metal snap ring underneath the tray)
![Image]()
Some of the parts will not be used because they require the transmission to be removed from the vehicle. The kit instructions say that these parts are optional if the tranny is still in the vehicle. My write-up is not to be a complete guide to installing this shift kit. Please use the kit instructions along with this write-up.
Let's do this…Keep the valve body and all kit parts clean!!
Step 8
In the foil pan, turn the VB on its side so the valve cover is up and remove the 7 Torx bolts (keep in mind how tight these were if you don’t have a torque wrench). You can discard this cover as the kit provides a new stronger one.
Proceed to pull out the springs and valves from each cylinder placing them together so you do not get them mixed up. You can do what I did in the picture below.
![Image]()
After you remove all the springs and valves your VB will look like this…
![Image]()
The instructions say to replace the F/R valve (shown in pic below) with a new improved valve and cover included in the kit. However, I could not get the valve out after taking the cover off (I used duct tape and stuck it to the cover to pull it out) so I just left the stock one in there along with the stock cover.
![Image]()
From here on follow the instructions in the kit to replace old spring with new ones. Follow the instructions closely because some stock springs are to be kept and some are to be replaced with the new ones. I took my setup and just took out the springs to be replaced and put the news one in their place.
Step 9
You also need to replace the seals (see pic below) on the valves with the new ones provided. There are small rings that need to go into the grooves BEFORE the seals. Put the seals into the grooves over the rings. You will replace five seals, one for each valve.
![Image]()
Step 10
After installing the new seals put each valve back into its cylinder and put the springs into the valves. Then install the new valve cover using the same torx screws and tighten to about where they were when you removed them or torque them to the spec found in the instructions. When done your VB will look like below…
![Image]()
Step 11
Your VB is done (Use the kit instructions to make sure)! Now reinstall the valve body with the six 8mm bolts being sure that the VB is seated correctly. Tighten bolts down to where they were before or torque to specs. Reconnect the main transmission wiring harness making sure the gray lever is all the way up and locked.
Step 12
Install your new filters! The kit I purchased was from WIX Filters. This is kit #58843 (seen below) and comes with both filters, a new seal, a new coupler, and a new gasket. This is a kit for the 4wd Jeep, not the 2wd. The main filter is different on a 2wd due to a shallower pan.
![Image]()
When installing the main pump filter make sure you first install the seal into the pump opening BEFORE sliding the filter tube into the seal. Make sure the seal is pushed all the way in and that the ring on the seal is flush with the opening surface. (See pic below) I had to use a socket with the same diameter as the seal and hammer to tap it into place.
![Image]()
Then push the main filter tube into the seal and secure the filter with the retaining screw. Proceed to install your spin-on filter.
Step 13
Install your transmission pan. I found that the screw holes in my new gasket were small enough to hold the pan bolts in place for me. So I went ahead and positioned all the screws in the pan. I read that wetting the new gasket on both sides with a little ATF fluid will help it seal so I did so.
![Image]()
I purchased a new transmission magnet, one that is bigger and much stronger.
![Image]()
I placed the magnet in the pan shiny side up in an area where it would not interfere with the main filter intake. It was strong enough to hold tight to the ridges. See pic…
![Image]()
Install your transmission pan. Don’t tighten the bolts too much or you may damage the new gasket. Make sure you don’t forget the magnet whether it be a new one or your old one. Any magnet is better than none!
Step 14
*Skip if you are just changing fluid and filters
Along with the new VB springs and seals, you have to connect (preferably solder) a resistor (included in the kit) to the pressure sensor wires. This tells the TCM to make more pressure so your shifts are faster and firmer. Follow the instructions included in the kit for more detail. The pressure sensor is on the passenger side of the transmission near the back. Has three wires running to it and is pretty close to the exhaust mount.
Step 15
Add your new ATF fluid! I used Royal Purple Max ATF fluid. You have to pour your new fluid in through the transmission dipstick tube….funnel for the win! Proceed on adding fluid until you have about a half bottle left.
![Image]()
Step 16
Read ahead to *** if just changing fluid
Go test drive!! Take it easy…your tranny will probably shift weird at first because it has to circulate all the new fluid through the now dry VB. Your TCM also has to adjust to the modifications and may take some time. You should feel a difference right off like I did. The shifts are faster and firmer! The most change is felt at WOT. The change isn’t enormous but was enough to notice and make me feel good about my auto! The royal purple ATF fluid also made my tranny shift a lot smoother then before. After reaching operating temp check the fluid level and add as necessary.
***Test drive until operating temp is reached and check fluid. Add as necessary!
Thanks for reading!
--Jeep Boy
Things to have before starting:
-8mm socket wrench with extension
-T20 or T40 Torx bit screwdriver or wrench
-Flat head screwdriver or plastic putty knife (plastic preferred)
-A roll of shop towels.
-Funnel that fits into your transmission dipstick tube
-A drip pan capable of holding more than 7 quarts of fluid.
-7 quarts of ATF fluid. (8 if installing shift kit)
-New transmission filters (main and spin-on), pan gasket, and main filter pump seal (comes with new main filter).
If also installing the shift-kit:
-All of the above plus…
-A foil turkey pan to place the valve body in when working on it. Size should be around 20”x14”.
-TransGo 45RFE-HD2 Shift kit
Also make sure you do this on a calm, warm day. You don’t want wind blowing any dirt into the open transmission.
Step 1
Using the 8mm socket wrench loosen all the transmission pan bolts, there are 15 total. Have the drip pan ready in case some fluid starts dripping out.
Proceed to unscrew a quarter of the way the bolts marked by the red pointers (see pic below). The Blue Line marks where you will pour the transmission fluid from (see pic).
The pan doesn’t have a plug so this is the best way I found to remove the transmission fluid. Stick a flathead screwdriver or plastic putty knife (plastic will prevent scratches) between the old gasket and the pan. If using a screwdriver then be careful to keep the flathead level so you don’t gouge the surfaces.
Have your drip pan in place and gently pry the pan down until fluid starts pouring out of the corner and hold till the fluid slows.
Then proceed to loosen the bolts more, pry farther and repeat till most of the fluid is out. You will get more fluid out if your Jeep is on ramps because of the angle. Remove all bolts except for two, each one in a corner, hold the pan up with one hand, remove the other two bolts with the other and lower the pan to the ground keeping it level…there is still more fluid in it. Dump the rest into your drip pan.
Here’s what you will see with the pan off…
Step 2
Remove the Main Filter by removing the Torx retaining screw shown below and pulling the filter down. Be prepared for it to suddenly give way and maybe dump some fluid.
Also make sure the seal comes off with it as shown below.
If not just reach up to where the filter tube stuck into and pull out the seal out of the opening as shown below. (Valve Body highlighted in blue)
Step 3
Next remove the spin-on filter as you would an engine oil filter. There is a coupler that goes between the tranny and filter. If your new filter comes with a new coupler discard the old one.
Spin-On Filter Coupler…
As you are working tranny fluid will continue to drip from the valve body. Have your drip pan positioned to catch as much as you can. Some fluid will get on the ground regardless as this is a pretty messy job. The more fluid you let drip the more you will replace with new fluid and the less fluid there will be in the valve body when you work on it. (If you are going to do so)
Step 4
In the meantime clean your transmission pan and remove the old gasket. Gently remove all the old gasket or sealant from both the pan and transmission seal surface. Also clean the magnet in your pan. Place the clean magnet in the same place in your pan so you don’t lose it.
----If you are just changing your filters and fluid then skip to Step 12----
Set aside all your work so far and get ready to remove the valve body.
Step 5
Before you drop the valve body disconnect the main transmission wiring harness. This harness is on the driver’s side of the transmission next to the shift linkage. This was a PITA because the connector has this fancy lock mechanism on it and there’s really room for only one hand. Shown in the picture below is where the lock lever is located.
You have to push the lock lever away from the gray handle then pull the handle down and away from the connector. The connector will unlock and start to pull away.
Step 6
Proceed to remove the 8mm bolts marked with arrows in the picture below from the valve body leaving a couple just half way in to hold the VB for you. There are six bolts total.
Then as you did with the fluid pan, use one hand to hold the VB and the other to remove the remaining bolts. The VB is not really heavy but still has a good weight to it so be ready for it. Let the VB separate from the transmission and set it in your foil turkey pan. DO NOT DROP IT! The removed VB is shown below. As you can see my foil pan was a little too small!
Step 7
The next three pictures show the shift kit we are going to install...
This next pic shows the parts included in the kit (with the exception of a big metal snap ring underneath the tray)
Some of the parts will not be used because they require the transmission to be removed from the vehicle. The kit instructions say that these parts are optional if the tranny is still in the vehicle. My write-up is not to be a complete guide to installing this shift kit. Please use the kit instructions along with this write-up.
Let's do this…Keep the valve body and all kit parts clean!!
Step 8
In the foil pan, turn the VB on its side so the valve cover is up and remove the 7 Torx bolts (keep in mind how tight these were if you don’t have a torque wrench). You can discard this cover as the kit provides a new stronger one.
Proceed to pull out the springs and valves from each cylinder placing them together so you do not get them mixed up. You can do what I did in the picture below.
After you remove all the springs and valves your VB will look like this…
The instructions say to replace the F/R valve (shown in pic below) with a new improved valve and cover included in the kit. However, I could not get the valve out after taking the cover off (I used duct tape and stuck it to the cover to pull it out) so I just left the stock one in there along with the stock cover.
From here on follow the instructions in the kit to replace old spring with new ones. Follow the instructions closely because some stock springs are to be kept and some are to be replaced with the new ones. I took my setup and just took out the springs to be replaced and put the news one in their place.
Step 9
You also need to replace the seals (see pic below) on the valves with the new ones provided. There are small rings that need to go into the grooves BEFORE the seals. Put the seals into the grooves over the rings. You will replace five seals, one for each valve.
Step 10
After installing the new seals put each valve back into its cylinder and put the springs into the valves. Then install the new valve cover using the same torx screws and tighten to about where they were when you removed them or torque them to the spec found in the instructions. When done your VB will look like below…
Step 11
Your VB is done (Use the kit instructions to make sure)! Now reinstall the valve body with the six 8mm bolts being sure that the VB is seated correctly. Tighten bolts down to where they were before or torque to specs. Reconnect the main transmission wiring harness making sure the gray lever is all the way up and locked.
Step 12
Install your new filters! The kit I purchased was from WIX Filters. This is kit #58843 (seen below) and comes with both filters, a new seal, a new coupler, and a new gasket. This is a kit for the 4wd Jeep, not the 2wd. The main filter is different on a 2wd due to a shallower pan.
When installing the main pump filter make sure you first install the seal into the pump opening BEFORE sliding the filter tube into the seal. Make sure the seal is pushed all the way in and that the ring on the seal is flush with the opening surface. (See pic below) I had to use a socket with the same diameter as the seal and hammer to tap it into place.
Then push the main filter tube into the seal and secure the filter with the retaining screw. Proceed to install your spin-on filter.
Step 13
Install your transmission pan. I found that the screw holes in my new gasket were small enough to hold the pan bolts in place for me. So I went ahead and positioned all the screws in the pan. I read that wetting the new gasket on both sides with a little ATF fluid will help it seal so I did so.
I purchased a new transmission magnet, one that is bigger and much stronger.
I placed the magnet in the pan shiny side up in an area where it would not interfere with the main filter intake. It was strong enough to hold tight to the ridges. See pic…
Install your transmission pan. Don’t tighten the bolts too much or you may damage the new gasket. Make sure you don’t forget the magnet whether it be a new one or your old one. Any magnet is better than none!
Step 14
*Skip if you are just changing fluid and filters
Along with the new VB springs and seals, you have to connect (preferably solder) a resistor (included in the kit) to the pressure sensor wires. This tells the TCM to make more pressure so your shifts are faster and firmer. Follow the instructions included in the kit for more detail. The pressure sensor is on the passenger side of the transmission near the back. Has three wires running to it and is pretty close to the exhaust mount.
Step 15
Add your new ATF fluid! I used Royal Purple Max ATF fluid. You have to pour your new fluid in through the transmission dipstick tube….funnel for the win! Proceed on adding fluid until you have about a half bottle left.
Step 16
Read ahead to *** if just changing fluid
Go test drive!! Take it easy…your tranny will probably shift weird at first because it has to circulate all the new fluid through the now dry VB. Your TCM also has to adjust to the modifications and may take some time. You should feel a difference right off like I did. The shifts are faster and firmer! The most change is felt at WOT. The change isn’t enormous but was enough to notice and make me feel good about my auto! The royal purple ATF fluid also made my tranny shift a lot smoother then before. After reaching operating temp check the fluid level and add as necessary.
***Test drive until operating temp is reached and check fluid. Add as necessary!
Thanks for reading!
--Jeep Boy
Nice instruction, this is what I have been looking for since I hear bits and pieces of what’s involved with changing the transmission fluids. When the weather is nice outside I will use this, I have two questions.
1) What is the advantage of installing the TransGo 45RFE-HD2 shift kit?
2) Is the gasket simpler than putting RTV in or is it something u prefer?
1) What is the advantage of installing the TransGo 45RFE-HD2 shift kit?
2) Is the gasket simpler than putting RTV in or is it something u prefer?
really glad this write up was done cause i just got my transgo shift kit in and the instructions are...shall we say lacking and unclear...this is def going to help me out tons..thanks so much for post this
Hay nice write up on your Transgo instalation.I do have a question for you, will the Transgo 454rfe 545rfe hd2 fit my 03 Grand Cherokee overland 4.7 ho with the 545rfe transmission I have been reading so much about it that I am getting a little confused with it all (age thing I guess) thank you.
yes it will..i just put one in my 04..its not a HO but that doesnt matter..also heads up if you have a chip (ie-superchips flashpaq and maybe others) then you dont have to put the resistor on..in fact if you do it will cause 2-3 shifts to be REAL harsh..once i realized that and took the resistor out the tranny shifts like a dream
Hi thanks for your reply that is great help.Did every thing fit okay?You said 2nd - 3rd was a bit harsh was it because the shift was to close or was it a rough shift?.I have a Jet stage 2 chip that I havent recieved yet from Summit will that be okay to use to sort it out if I get a bad shift. One other thing where is the resistor you said you took out?Sorry for all the Questions but I have to get it right and your the man.
Roy
Roy
when you get the shift kit you will understand..it comes with a resistor that you are supposed to splice into some wires but if your gettting a chip i would wait and install everything together (chip and shift kit minus the resistor) and you shouldnt have problems
No it cannot. But im sure transgo makes one for your tranny. Im not sure what tranny the i-6 has but if u find that out then check transgos site im sure u can find one
Just off topic a bit does anyone have any fsm sheets or a schematic of a 42RE...I am getting a od light at startup and soon after a trans temp light. Felt the lines, bottom of tranny pan, and fluid on dip stick and they are warm...so no overheat issue. I'm thinking electrical.
There is a round three prong plug on the driver side of the transmission below the shift lever and i can plug my socket into it 2 different ways...Is there a difference? Where are the grounds? Are there any test I can perform either with a volt meter or something?
Thanks!
There is a round three prong plug on the driver side of the transmission below the shift lever and i can plug my socket into it 2 different ways...Is there a difference? Where are the grounds? Are there any test I can perform either with a volt meter or something?
Thanks!
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