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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After searching here for answers for why my WJ had no heat I came up with info on the methods, but no write-ups. If your WJ has A/C but no heat or heat on only one side, this is your problem. So here it is, a write-up of the JGC Parts WJ Dual zone blend door fix. I found their kits on eBay (seller name: jgcparts, also they have a website), so I ordered it and had them shipped to my door, and they arrived within a week. The know how needed is very, very basic, and the tool list is short. If you would take your WJ to the dealer the total bill would come to alittle over 1,000 this simple fix will be under 150 dollars. Total time to put this kit in is around 40 min, most of that time was taking pics to post here.
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----list of items:
-JGC Dual Zone Blend Door Kit (includes both doors and a foam sealing tape)
-Screw driver, Phillips (and a Standard can be usefull)
-Some tool to cut the HVAC housing (I used a Dremel with various bits to cut plastic.
-Shop-Vac (come on, little bits of plastic shavings everywhere)
-Pliers (to pull drive gear out of the box)
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-Start by removing or lowering the glovebox by reaching into the area inside the glovebox where the rubber bumpers are stopping it from comming down. feel around to move the rubber "D's" outta the way to allow the fins to slide down the tracks. once the box is out of the way, remove the motor by unscrewing the two screws on either side. Now unplug the white connector and move all wiring out of the "cut zone". You'll need to remove a spring/ screw (early WJ's have a spring clip/ late WJ's have a screw, area circled in yellow) at the bottom of the chunk you'll cut out along a ridge lip.

-The cutting part!, using your cutting tool cut into the HVAC box (the place I traced out in yellow) the bottom ridge (that you do not need to cut) will just lift apart.
---*note, the verticle line nearest the passenger side is a very tricky cut, made by the A/C evaporator just inside. Cut shallow and slow!

-With the outter layer off you can now see your worthless doors laying closed over the heater core. The cutting is not over the center divider inbetween the doors has no real purpose so cut it out (using my yellow lines again). With this piece out the doors can now be REMOVED!

-Using the pliers pull the external drive gear white plasitc thingy off, then lift out the closest door to you, then the furthest door.

-Compare the new and old doors, the OEM are a flimsy plastic-like substance, and the JGC kit has all Aluminium doors. The computer will shut-down the drive motors when a fault is found in the system, this may stop the furthest door in a odd spot, so disconnect the battery for a couple min. and reconnect. put the furthest door in place on the tip of the shaft, then turn the key to Acc and turn the passenger side temp switch (or let the motor run through a test phase) it should turn in a clockwise path untill resistance is met. Once the door will slide onto the shaft make shure its in its resting place and watch it run through a test phase (open close open close, cool). turn key off and fit closest door into place, onto shaft with other door. Then take the new aluminium external drive gear into place making shure the limit pin is in the right place. Now for the passenger motor, just match the doors drive gear to the motor position and screw the motor into place.

-Test it out!, with the first section you cut out still off, plug in the two connectors (to the motor and the skinny white plug and connector) start the Jeep and adjust the temp controls and watch the doors rise and fall. If all works well unplug the motor and remove it. clean the area put the screw (or clip) back into place and using the foam tape included to seal the crack you cut, replace the motor and button everything up... well thats it.. your done... now go do donuts in alaska or something! -Thanks, Todd
 

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Kudos. The more people that post their repairs, the easier the search feature will be. Makes it easier to wade through the BS that doesn't apply to what you're looking for.
 

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passenger side less cool that middle/drivers side

Does this repair cure the problem I have .....passenger vents blow warmer air than center/drivers vents with a/c on ?
 

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Just for jeeps offers a Mopar kit. It is dual zone. Only negative I can see and others have mentioned is the drivers blend door is metal, while the pass side is plastic. Here: http://www.justforjeeps.com/bldoho.html

The install write up is really good as well. Here: http://site.justforjeeps.com/guide/68080867AA.pdf

I have the AZC dual zone system in my 2001, so my research has focused on that. I think the Manual, single zone system uses just the one acutator (motor).

I think the JGC, Blen-dor, and Heater Treater all have both alum. doors. Most of these dual zone kits assume the pass side Blend door shaft and acutator are ok.
The Heater Treater dual zone includes a 2nd motor for pass side, and requires some glove box trimming. The single zone repair for AZC runs both doors off the drivers side motor,

Not to be confused with Mode or Recirc. doors. So, anyone having issues needs to take a close look / listen at what is or is not functioning.

Blend doors control Temperature only by controlling how much air is allowed to pass through the heater core, which then mixes with the air coming out of the vent. When the doors break, they tend to sit in the down position, and the most common symptom is NO heat from the affected side.

I'm still undecided on which kit I will buy, but the install looks fairly easy as long as you do not puncture the A/C evaporator while cutting......
 

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After searching here for answers for why my WJ had no heat I came up with info on the methods, but no write-ups. If your WJ has A/C but no heat or heat on only one side, this is your problem. So here it is, a write-up of the JGC Parts WJ Dual zone blend door fix. I found their kits on eBay (seller name: jgcparts, also they have a website), so I ordered it and had them shipped to my door, and they arrived within a week. The know how needed is very, very basic, and the tool list is short. If you would take your WJ to the dealer the total bill would come to alittle over 1,000 this simple fix will be under 150 dollars. Total time to put this kit in is around 40 min, most of that time was taking pics to post here.
-----------------
----list of items:
-JGC Dual Zone Blend Door Kit (includes both doors and a foam sealing tape)
-Screw driver, Phillips (and a Standard can be usefull)
-Some tool to cut the HVAC housing (I used a Dremel with various bits to cut plastic.
-Shop-Vac (come on, little bits of plastic shavings everywhere)
-Pliers (to pull drive gear out of the box)
-----------------
-Start by removing or lowering the glovebox by reaching into the area inside the glovebox where the rubber bumpers are stopping it from comming down. feel around to move the rubber "D's" outta the way to allow the fins to slide down the tracks. once the box is out of the way, remove the motor by unscrewing the two screws on either side. Now unplug the white connector and move all wiring out of the "cut zone". You'll need to remove a spring/ screw (early WJ's have a spring clip/ late WJ's have a screw, area circled in yellow) at the bottom of the chunk you'll cut out along a ridge lip.

-The cutting part!, using your cutting tool cut into the HVAC box (the place I traced out in yellow) the bottom ridge (that you do not need to cut) will just lift apart.
---*note, the verticle line nearest the passenger side is a very tricky cut, made by the A/C evaporator just inside. Cut shallow and slow!

-With the outter layer off you can now see your worthless doors laying closed over the heater core. The cutting is not over the center divider inbetween the doors has no real purpose so cut it out (using my yellow lines again). With this piece out the doors can now be REMOVED!

-Using the pliers pull the external drive gear white plasitc thingy off, then lift out the closest door to you, then the furthest door.

-Compare the new and old doors, the OEM are a flimsy plastic-like substance, and the JGC kit has all Aluminium doors. The computer will shut-down the drive motors when a fault is found in the system, this may stop the furthest door in a odd spot, so disconnect the battery for a couple min. and reconnect. put the furthest door in place on the tip of the shaft, then turn the key to Acc and turn the passenger side temp switch (or let the motor run through a test phase) it should turn in a clockwise path untill resistance is met. Once the door will slide onto the shaft make shure its in its resting place and watch it run through a test phase (open close open close, cool). turn key off and fit closest door into place, onto shaft with other door. Then take the new aluminium external drive gear into place making shure the limit pin is in the right place. Now for the passenger motor, just match the doors drive gear to the motor position and screw the motor into place.

-Test it out!, with the first section you cut out still off, plug in the two connectors (to the motor and the skinny white plug and connector) start the Jeep and adjust the temp controls and watch the doors rise and fall. If all works well unplug the motor and remove it. clean the area put the screw (or clip) back into place and using the foam tape included to seal the crack you cut, replace the motor and button everything up... well thats it.. your done... now go do donuts in alaska or something! -Thanks, Todd
It doesn't look like there is a limit pin or stop anywhere on the passenger side door in this kit. I'm wondering about the stress put on the passenger door gear drive. Is this repair still working for ypu?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
From what I can remember, the Passenger side door's motor did not use a limiter pin the motor will feel the strain and stop, or it is on the out side of the far part of the box. (best I can think of). The system is still working as good as OEM did. The kit was not hard to install and the company will help answer any questions you may have, Excellent customer service. Hope this helps, Todd
 

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Blend door problems

Took my 01' to the dealer as p/side was blowing cold, they checked the error codes and said $1520 with my 10% discount for buying the Jeep there ! Well I did search and can get parts for less then 1/2 what they list, then did more searchs and found a couple repair kits,,,all look simple enuff but they all say if the rear motor is bad then dash etc must come out.....well I found a kit at (guess I can put site here as we are talking fixing our Jeeps) http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt...85ab_alternate_blend_door_repair_kit_gra.html ..... Now this makes the duel control into a single drivers side control but I see no problen there, and if the door motor every goes out its a simple fix as it is right behind the glove box !
Not sure if this is a kit we can get at the dealer but I will find out in the next couple days and let everyone know......From $1520 to $71 is well worth me bending in knots and fixing it myself !!!!
 

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I ended up purchasing the dual zone control kit from JGC based on
Pleiner87's input and it works great.
Now if I could only find an easy solution for the recirculator door (cuz it's broke too) without removing the dash, that would be awesome.
 

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Dash removal isn't actually that hard of a job. It is time consuming, but not difficult. There is a three part video on youtube. I just had my laptop in the Jeep with me, and would watch the video a few minutes at a time, do some work, watch the video...not too bad at all.

Part 1

 

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Just finished installing the kit from Denlors tools, I no longer have duel control but that's one fancy thing I really don't need anyways. It took all of maybe 3 hours and works great ! Best $1500 I ever saved ! Thanks NAGCA for the write ups and help !
 
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