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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there, i have a 94 ZJ. im planning on lifting it 4" total for now. and when i buy the lift, i want to buy wheels and tires too. i found some 32x11.50 Cooper Discoverer tires i like and some 15x8 procomp beadlock rims. will this lift, tire, and wheel combination work? im new to lifting. will i have to cut because of rubbing? please help.
 

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Search around on here, many people have dome this lift/tire combo. The short answer is yes it will work, and yes you will need to trim the from bumper cover. There are a lot of other thongs to consider and searching on here will get u all the answers.
 

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x2 bigclay, i have 3.5" RE with the 32's with trimmed fenders and a pounded in pinch seem. If I had another half inch i'd be rub free, which i'm working on btw. Go for it, once your there, you'll wish you got 33's though.....
 

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i just did my f/r swap last nite and i'm running 33x10.50x15's on older lincoln wheels. they rub when turning but i'm getting 31x10.50x15's cooper at3'5 tomarrow. i want the extra room to flex. will post pix tomarrow nite.
 

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here is my jeep with 33x10.50x15's on 6" lincoln wheels. thought they were wider. now i have to find 8" wheels. just put on my 31's today. will try to get a pic if my phone starts working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
@zj_brillo i was thinking about 33's but i was told that they would put a lot of stress on the stock axles. and although i want to get dana 44's, i wont have the money for them yet.

also for everyone else, i have another question. could i do a 4" lift with the shocks and springs that come with the kit and add a 1.5" BB puck? because that would total out to 5.5". the kit also comes with transfer case drop which would help driveshaft angles. i would probably still run 32's with the 5.5" if it will work. i have seen only one on google images but they have 3.5" lift and 2" bb puck. sorry for the paragraph. anyone have ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
here is my jeep with 33x10.50x15's on 6" lincoln wheels. thought they were wider. now i have to find 8" wheels. just put on my 31's today. will try to get a pic if my phone starts working.
you got that much lift out of a f/r swap? how much lift do you have compared to stock? and im surprised you could fit 33's on there without even trimming bumpers and/or fenders.. are you running stock axles and gear ratio with the 33's? if so, how does it react when driving or offroading? any strain on the axles? im asking too many questions haha!
 

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@zj_brillo i was thinking about 33's but i was told that they would put a lot of stress on the stock axles. and although i want to get dana 44's, i wont have the money for them yet.

also for everyone else, i have another question. could i do a 4" lift with the shocks and springs that come with the kit and add a 1.5" BB puck? because that would total out to 5.5". the kit also comes with transfer case drop which would help driveshaft angles. i would probably still run 32's with the 5.5" if it will work. i have seen only one on google images but they have 3.5" lift and 2" bb puck. sorry for the paragraph. anyone have ideas?
what size motor, type of wheeling you want to do? lockers, gears? how heavy are you on the skinny pedal? Especially if you're not locked, I've seen guys down in the valley here run 35's on a 30/35 set up. It's not ideal, no, but people do it and learn how to change a shaft, carry spares. not a big deal.

also, don't do the tcase drop. All that does is reduce any clearance you already have, negating the pucks completely. Save a little extra longer and get the SYE.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
what size motor, type of wheeling you want to do? lockers, gears? how heavy are you on the skinny pedal? Especially if you're not locked, I've seen guys down in the valley here run 35's on a 30/35 set up. It's not ideal, no, but people do it and learn how to change a shaft, carry spares. not a big deal.

also, don't do the tcase drop. All that does is reduce any clearance you already have, negating the pucks completely. Save a little extra longer and get the SYE.
i have the V8 5.2L. im thinking of mud wheeling like trails and stuff. not much rock wheeling yet haha. just keepin it light to medium trails. stuff that u can still get pretty stuck in lol. no lockers and 3.73 gear ratio with the 30/35 setup. if the 33's will work with this and the 4" lift, then i will probably do that. if not, i will just stick with 32's. and btw, what is SYE? is it just a bigger lift kit instead of the lift plus puck that i was thinking or?? im just a beginner lol the terms are a little new to me. :emb:
 

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i have the V8 5.2L. im thinking of mud wheeling like trails and stuff. not much rock wheeling yet haha. just keepin it light to medium trails. stuff that u can still get pretty stuck in lol. no lockers and 3.73 gear ratio with the 30/35 setup. if the 33's will work with this and the 4" lift, then i will probably do that. if not, i will just stick with 32's. and btw, what is SYE? is it just a bigger lift kit instead of the lift plus puck that i was thinking or?? im just a beginner lol the terms are a little new to me. :emb:
you get more torque out of the v8 for sure, but don't bounce and you should be fine. Carry spares. Regardless with 32's/33's/35's, w.e, you should regear. You will watch all your umph go away when you get the larger tires. I'm on 3.73's with 32's and i wish i had 4.10's in, but i'm anticipating replacing the rear for a ford 8.8 that's sitting in the garage so i'll do my gear change to 4.88's with 33s and able to go to 35s later.

SYE is a slip yoke eliminator. When you lift, you throw off the geometry of your original suspension to drive line set up. The rear drive shaft has to droop down to get to the rear axle. It will bind and most likely come out causing many other problems. Or you will get a bad wobble at higher speeds. Dropping the tcase only creates problems by getting caught on things.

It's a couple hundred bucks more, but really worth it in terms of doing it correctly which is the ultimate goal.

when you mud, you have to do a lot of work after. It gets in everywhere. I know, i just did the bogs down here last weekend. Change your diff fluid, sometimes repack the bearings, ball joints. You don't have to but your stuff will last a lot longer if you do. make sure you get some good skids as well with your lift. Best bet is to find a local 4x4 shop, and go in and talk with em. They will be more than happy to talk to you and go over different things with you. Help you start a build plan. Also, there is something to be said for doing it yourself, but don't fab outside your ability. Welding gets tricky if you haven't been trained. Regardless of what you decide, Google will be your best friend and your significant other possibly will dislike you every time you get another mod.

It's an expensive hobby but one of the most fun. And, post up build progress with lots of pics, these guys love that stuff and have alot of info to give you as well.
 

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Do not waste your money on a short arm lift. There's also no need for a 4" lift for 32's or even 33's. Invest your money in Iceland Offroad fender flares. (You could just cleanly cut the fenders but the flares look really good and add coverage to the tires.) Then buy a 2" spacer lift to run up to 33's. I wouldn't even buy shocks unless they're worn out. Stock track bars will work fine. Stock brake lines will work fine. Stock steering will work fine but get an alignment after you install the spacers. Stock driveshafts will work fine.

The larger fender openings will let you stuff the tire farther into the opening and still be able to steer. Your rig will perform much better than a 4" lifted, heavily bumpstopped ZJ with stock fender openings.

Have a blast with it, get some wheelin' experience under your belt. When you're ready to go bigger, upgrade to heavier duty axles and a long arm lift. 4" for 35's and 6" for 37's. The only money wasted will be the $50 or so for the spacers. There's nothing more ridiculous than a circus-wagon of a ZJ on stilts. 4", 5", or even 6" for 31's or even 33's?.... That's just plain silly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
you get more torque out of the v8 for sure, but don't bounce and you should be fine. Carry spares. Regardless with 32's/33's/35's, w.e, you should regear. You will watch all your umph go away when you get the larger tires. I'm on 3.73's with 32's and i wish i had 4.10's in, but i'm anticipating replacing the rear for a ford 8.8 that's sitting in the garage so i'll do my gear change to 4.88's with 33s and able to go to 35s later.

SYE is a slip yoke eliminator. When you lift, you throw off the geometry of your original suspension to drive line set up. The rear drive shaft has to droop down to get to the rear axle. It will bind and most likely come out causing many other problems. Or you will get a bad wobble at higher speeds. Dropping the tcase only creates problems by getting caught on things.

It's a couple hundred bucks more, but really worth it in terms of doing it correctly which is the ultimate goal.

when you mud, you have to do a lot of work after. It gets in everywhere. I know, i just did the bogs down here last weekend. Change your diff fluid, sometimes repack the bearings, ball joints. You don't have to but your stuff will last a lot longer if you do. make sure you get some good skids as well with your lift. Best bet is to find a local 4x4 shop, and go in and talk with em. They will be more than happy to talk to you and go over different things with you. Help you start a build plan. Also, there is something to be said for doing it yourself, but don't fab outside your ability. Welding gets tricky if you haven't been trained. Regardless of what you decide, Google will be your best friend and your significant other possibly will dislike you every time you get another mod.

It's an expensive hobby but one of the most fun. And, post up build progress with lots of pics, these guys love that stuff and have alot of info to give you as well.
wow. thanks for all the info! its a big help. Also, could I put 4.10's in the stock axles or should i just save up and get the Dana 44 or the Ford 8.8? Even if it takes me a little longer to get the money I would rather wait and do everything correct and build it up strong before I break stuff and end up spending the same money anyways lol.
 

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i'd sit on what you have, if you can't come up with the funds right away, a stock jeep is no fun, so build what you can but think longer term.
 

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i forgot to measure before and after i lifted it. i have only had the jeep just over 2 weeks now. i took off the 33's and running 31's now. i only ran the 33's 2 days, if i had my front bumper cut they wouldn't have rubbed at all in the front. i have 3.73's stock with the towing package. the chrysler 8.25 is just about as strong as a dana 44, from what i read before when i was building my xj. it was like 20% diff. if you go with a dana 44 watch out for the ones with the alum center housing. if i remeber right the chrysler 8.25 have 2 diff axle splines 27 and 29(newer).i would have to relook what year it changed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ok cool. thanks for the help you guys. so for now, im gonna do the 4" Lift with steering stabilizer and i guess i wont get the T-case drop just thought it was better to have it. except for ground clearance. and im going to get 32" BFG mud terrains. i have been hearing some good stuff about those tires and they are a little cheaper. i want to also get a quick disconnect SB. And because of funds, i might have to stick with stock rims..(only for now) oh well.. i can live with them for a little lol. i want the lift and tires first. :D
 

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That sounds like a good start, stick with the stock rims, it wont hurt anything and you wont feel bad if you nick em up. Could always spray paint them, a lot of people do that for a different look. Keep an eye on CL. I picked my aluminums up for $75 for 5 of em.
 

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Just in a response to the not needing a much lift to fit 33s, wouldn't that all depend on what you're using it for? I have a 4" lift with 31s and i love it, allows me to articulate well, and once i have the money to upgrade to long arm even better
 
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