Brake Upgrade: Teves to Akebono (99 WJ)
After years of dealing with the warped rotors, it was time for the upgrade. The stealership told me the teves were the better calipers, and I didn't need an upgrade. This is an example of why I will never trust the "experts" at the stealership. The pads I had didn't perform adequately either, I needed something that would stop the 35's better. Because I was upgrading the fronts, I replaced the rear pads and rotors as well. The rear pads were only 1/2 worn, but I wanted the higher friction pads.
Here is what I started with, front teves calipers, worn rotors, and worn pads. The front pads were on the Jeep when I bought it (3 years ago) and still had 1/3 of the pad left. They were way too hard with little stopping power. Here is what I was looking at with the tires off. Notice on the Teves Caliper, it has a spring on the front.
![Image]()
To remove the caliper, you will need an 7mm allen wrench. After that, you need to remove the caliper bracket, two 18mm bolts. When using a socket, you have to move the ABS wire off of its retainer prong and out of the way. Also make sure the front of the rotor is turned slightly inward towards the Jeep so that you can reach the upper bolt easier (the knuckle can get in the way).
![Image]()
All four rotors (I replaced all brakes front and rear) needed persuasion to come off. Here is the persuader:
![Image]()
You NEED Akebono caliper brackets for this upgrade, look at the difference. The Akebono caliper bracket is fully enclosed, much more rigid.
![Image]()
You can clearly see the difference in the caliper castings, the Akebono has ridges on the top of the casting. This will make the caliper itself more rigid, and provides larger cooling surface. The Akebono is on the ground, the Teves is in my hand..notice its smooth top.
![Image]()
Notice the writing on the back of the Akebono caliper:
![Image]()
Side comparison of the calipers:
![Image]()
The new calipers came with 5 small clips. I was confused at first, and really couldn't find anything online about how they went on. After simply looking at them and the caliper bracket though, they were self explanatory. Four of them slide on where the pads ride, and the fifth was just a pad life indicator that clipped onto the brake pad.
![Image]()
I have seen some people spread anti squeak all over the back of their pads, but I have always thought this was unnecessary. I just apply it to the pistons and the inside lip of the caliper where the pads rest. Then you don't see it all over the pad when you are done. My brother works for an automotive shop, and has countless stories of people who apply this to the pad surface!!!! Do not do that.
![Image]()
I used Hawks LTS pads as I LOVE Hawks, they have always performed extremely well on my Camaro. The LTS pad with Y Compound is the pad with the highest coefficient of friction that Hawk produces for the WJ, so I went with it to stop the 35's.
![Image]()
This was the first time I had replaced calipers on an ABS vehicle. The bleeding process was very similar to any other, but you don't pump up the pedal. You have someone apply pressure to the brake pedal, then loosen the bleed valve, the brake pedal will go to the floor. You then tighten the bleed valve, they release the brake pedal and let don't touch anything for a few seconds. Then the pedal man should apply pressure to the pedal again while you open the bleeder valve. Then close the valve again before telling the pedal man (or woman, my wife is a great help with this) to let off of the brake pedal. So instead of pumping like on the non abs setups, you don't pump as this can introduce air into the ABS system. This isn't an in depth description, make sure you read the directions. They should be included with your calipers.
I went with a flat surface rotor as drilled slotted seem to reduce pad life on my Camaro. And with occasion, I may heat these rotors up fairly warm when towing and coming down the canyon. I don't want to have a rotor fail on me and break.
The rotors are the Premium rotors offered by Napa. I also bought the Calipers there b/c it came with the bracket included.
Total Cost of new brakes
Rotors (F&R) $212 at Napa
Front Calipers (Akebono Upgrade) $145 at Napa
Brake Pads (Hawks LTS Pads F&R) $160 from Summit Racing
1 Can Brake Fluid - $3 at Autozone
1 Can Brake Parts Cleaner - $3 at Autozone
TOTAL = $523
The braking is now amazing. It stops much faster. I don't think I could have activated the ABS on dry pavement before, but it stops very quickly now. It is much safer and more comfortable. No more warped rotors...
After years of dealing with the warped rotors, it was time for the upgrade. The stealership told me the teves were the better calipers, and I didn't need an upgrade. This is an example of why I will never trust the "experts" at the stealership. The pads I had didn't perform adequately either, I needed something that would stop the 35's better. Because I was upgrading the fronts, I replaced the rear pads and rotors as well. The rear pads were only 1/2 worn, but I wanted the higher friction pads.
Here is what I started with, front teves calipers, worn rotors, and worn pads. The front pads were on the Jeep when I bought it (3 years ago) and still had 1/3 of the pad left. They were way too hard with little stopping power. Here is what I was looking at with the tires off. Notice on the Teves Caliper, it has a spring on the front.
To remove the caliper, you will need an 7mm allen wrench. After that, you need to remove the caliper bracket, two 18mm bolts. When using a socket, you have to move the ABS wire off of its retainer prong and out of the way. Also make sure the front of the rotor is turned slightly inward towards the Jeep so that you can reach the upper bolt easier (the knuckle can get in the way).
All four rotors (I replaced all brakes front and rear) needed persuasion to come off. Here is the persuader:
You NEED Akebono caliper brackets for this upgrade, look at the difference. The Akebono caliper bracket is fully enclosed, much more rigid.
You can clearly see the difference in the caliper castings, the Akebono has ridges on the top of the casting. This will make the caliper itself more rigid, and provides larger cooling surface. The Akebono is on the ground, the Teves is in my hand..notice its smooth top.
Notice the writing on the back of the Akebono caliper:
Side comparison of the calipers:
The new calipers came with 5 small clips. I was confused at first, and really couldn't find anything online about how they went on. After simply looking at them and the caliper bracket though, they were self explanatory. Four of them slide on where the pads ride, and the fifth was just a pad life indicator that clipped onto the brake pad.
I have seen some people spread anti squeak all over the back of their pads, but I have always thought this was unnecessary. I just apply it to the pistons and the inside lip of the caliper where the pads rest. Then you don't see it all over the pad when you are done. My brother works for an automotive shop, and has countless stories of people who apply this to the pad surface!!!! Do not do that.
I used Hawks LTS pads as I LOVE Hawks, they have always performed extremely well on my Camaro. The LTS pad with Y Compound is the pad with the highest coefficient of friction that Hawk produces for the WJ, so I went with it to stop the 35's.
This was the first time I had replaced calipers on an ABS vehicle. The bleeding process was very similar to any other, but you don't pump up the pedal. You have someone apply pressure to the brake pedal, then loosen the bleed valve, the brake pedal will go to the floor. You then tighten the bleed valve, they release the brake pedal and let don't touch anything for a few seconds. Then the pedal man should apply pressure to the pedal again while you open the bleeder valve. Then close the valve again before telling the pedal man (or woman, my wife is a great help with this) to let off of the brake pedal. So instead of pumping like on the non abs setups, you don't pump as this can introduce air into the ABS system. This isn't an in depth description, make sure you read the directions. They should be included with your calipers.
I went with a flat surface rotor as drilled slotted seem to reduce pad life on my Camaro. And with occasion, I may heat these rotors up fairly warm when towing and coming down the canyon. I don't want to have a rotor fail on me and break.
The rotors are the Premium rotors offered by Napa. I also bought the Calipers there b/c it came with the bracket included.
Total Cost of new brakes
Rotors (F&R) $212 at Napa
Front Calipers (Akebono Upgrade) $145 at Napa
Brake Pads (Hawks LTS Pads F&R) $160 from Summit Racing
1 Can Brake Fluid - $3 at Autozone
1 Can Brake Parts Cleaner - $3 at Autozone
TOTAL = $523
The braking is now amazing. It stops much faster. I don't think I could have activated the ABS on dry pavement before, but it stops very quickly now. It is much safer and more comfortable. No more warped rotors...
