Well this is the way that I would go about it. I am in the process of gathering all the junk, because I am going long arm at the same time.
Take a piece a 4x4x1/4 and cut one edge off with a plazma, circular saw or if you have the patience a sawzall.
That piece will squeeze really tightly over the existing framerail. Timz on the JU board had to use a Jack to get it on.
Mark and drill for all the factory x members (well really only the Tranny mount since it is the only one we have). Then to really make that SOB rigid mock up a skid from cardboard and go have it cut out of 1/4 or 3/8. If you have a plasma you can do this yourself easy. Add a brace for the long expance that it is traveling and install.
I guarentee you will notice a difference.
You could also install a rollbar and sandwich the framerail and a lot of the floor with some plate.
Shoot I had my rear hatch pop open the other day. I don't like that, a good sign I am twisting pretty bad.
Have you done this to yours yet? I'd like to see photos of exactly what is done so maybe I can do it to mine.
~2.5" of lift and stock donuts will twist one up too, back hatch is a little tricky to get open and closed while flexed. Pain when trying to dig out the tree saver and gloves.
That is similar to the subframe that I will be building for the long arm. I did like tims subframe. I plan on using box and cutting the top with a plasma but the frame is wider on top than the bottom. Is there a gap on each side between the frame and subframe or does the top of the subframe widen to accomodate the wider frame? Make any sense? I haven't really looked into in depth yet.
However I think that if you use a jack and press it on there (it is going to be a really tight fit!) you will be just fine. There might be a little gap at the bottom corners but I dont think it will be enough to matter.
Hey while your at it make me a subframe also. hehehehe
Are you triangulating the rear? I am, but I will be doing it a little different than Tim. I will be using two Rod ends instead of one on the diff and Johhnies all the way around with no rubber. But my Jeep does not see more than 15 miles of road driving a week so ride is not that big of a concern.
What you doing for the front?
I am using a radius arm on the Diff mount and getting rid of the passenger side UCA. Sorta like the RockKrawler kit.
I will be using my RE adjustable uppers for the Radius Arm.
I am also rerouting the brakelins down the control arms so I can do away with that headache during flex.
Are you going to push the front end out some? I think I will push it about a inch forward. Think that Trackbar will still line up right? I guess it might bind on a good compression of that side.
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I haven't decided if I am going to triangulate the rear yet. But I will use two Heims or JJ's. We'll see how that goes.
The front is going to be the typical RE radius arm setup. Can't get myself to do the 3 arms up front yet. I am going to use my existing RE arms and sleeve and lengthen them.
The subframe will be the starting point though. If you get yours done first, let me know how it goes
Think about the binding that occurs with two radius arms. it is pretty severe for our little D30's and even a D44.
A good way to model this is with pencils and a papertowel tube. (or if you have kids Lego's or an erector set)
I was in the same boat as you until Someone on the Pirate board (I think it was Billavista or H8monday) told me to do the same thing. I did it and convinced myself in about ten minutes of the right way to do it.
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