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Discussion Starter #1
I have seen some talk of the WJ knuckle conversion, and wanted to ad some info from Blaine.

The WJ knuckle conversion is easy to do. A lot depends on whether or not you are going to run a hub conversion.

If not, you have to get pretty creative with some things.

First, the reason for the spacer is because the centerline of the balljoints is different between the two knuckles in relation to the centerline of the axle joints. U-joints on one and a CV joint on the other.

Ideally the spacer should be 1/4" thick. That will bring the u-joints into the same axial line as the ball joints. That thickness will not work if you intend to register the unit bearing correctly and have the load carried by the registration and not the three knuckle bolts. There is no room for anything to go back into the knuckle.

The unit bearing has a machined surface or registration ring just behind the three bolt flange. It goes into the knuckle about .300. If the spacer has to be .250 that only leaves .050 to carry the load on the front axle. Not enough to make me feel comfortable. You can see the unit bearing and the machined surface below.



You can do one of two things to alleviate the problem. Space the bearing out further, or turn down the unit bearing to fit into the spacer. That is what I plan on doing for the vehicles that want to run bigger brakes and unit bearings. I am still solving the problem of the bolt pattern and thing it may be possible to just re-drill the full size '86 CJ-7 rotors to 5 on 4.5.

I am currently doing the R&D on this set-up to run Cobra brakes on the front of TJs. We will see if we have to bump up the rim size to accomodate.

Here is a pic of the spacer I had machined.

You can see that it goes into the knuckle and registers just like the unit bearing did.



Here is a pic of it in the knuckle-

 

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Discussion Starter #3
NBaldwin said:
chris, since i am running the warn hub kit, does that make a difference in setting up the wj knuckles?
nathan
The small hub conversion kit [4 on 4.5} gives you wider track in the front, where as the larger hub kit {5 on 5.5} doesnt. It would be another 1/2" wider than you are now with the added spacers. There is also a brake conversion in the making right now. We found that a set of Cobra mustang front calipers {huge twin piston} will bolt directly to the WJ knuckle. Still working on the rotor.
 

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So if i am getting the warn hub conversion and i want to put the wj knuckles on it will i still need the spacers or will everything fit right.
Also do the wj knuckles have the separate tie rod and drag link mounts?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
enloezj97 said:
So if i am getting the warn hub conversion and i want to put the wj knuckles on it will i still need the spacers or will everything fit right.
Also do the wj knuckles have the separate tie rod and drag link mounts?
You will need custom machined spacers and a cross over steering set up.
 

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I just bought the knuckles and calipers and I wanted to know what you thought of the spacers from Burnsville offroad. They make the spacer. I haven't seen it but it sounds ok. I would really like the ones that you made. They look really strong. I also wanted to know if there would be enough room to put a straight tierod and drag link with heim joints or would it hit my sway bar mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
enloezj97 said:
I just bought the knuckles and calipers and I wanted to know what you thought of the spacers from Burnsville offroad. They make the spacer. I haven't seen it but it sounds ok. I would really like the ones that you made. They look really strong. I also wanted to know if there would be enough room to put a straight tierod and drag link with heim joints or would it hit my sway bar mount.
I have no experience with the spacers from bursville off road. The spacers shown above were made by a friend of mine, and he was one of the first to run the wj conversion on a HP44 in a TJ.

You can run a over the knuckle steering set up, but you will definitley need to cut and relocate your sway bar mounts. They will need to be moved up 2-3 inches.
 

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How does the setup work on a HP44 work did he use his stock hubs. What axles did he use. I have the knuckles now. I was just thinking instead of putting them on my D30 why not a D44. I just want manual hubs. But I don't know if I can do that with these knuckles.
 

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I purchased the burnsville spacer for my set-up (Tera 50 with WJ knuckles, warn 30 spline inners/outers, warn premium hubs, CJ rotors). The spacer (as Blaine warned me) solves one problem, but creates another. The spacer will center the u-joint with the ball joints, but the spindle will not be registered in the knuckle. All the weight of the vehicle will be placed on the 3 carriage bolts for the spindle. Blaines adaptor is good, but it's not perfect (as he admits). I figured out a way to register the spindle and keep the 1/4" spacer from burnsville. I'm having a machinist do the work and I'll post pics when I pic them up.

I used the warn 5x5.5 hub conversion kit with 30 spline outers and CJ 7 rotors. Despite what I've heard, this set-up added EXACTLY 1" to each side (3/4" from hub kit, 1/4" from spacer). My front axle is now 2" wider (4" wider than stock since I had it built 2 inches wider already). Keep this in mind if you do yours. Also, there is no difference with a Dana 30 and a Dana 44 assuming you have the correct axle yokes (inner knuckles). Obviously the inner shafts will be different, but the outers remain the same.
 

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Chris I just thought of something. I may not be getting the whole concept of this spacer thing but I am going to be replacing my inner shafts too when I finish my HPD30 couldn't I just get a custom inner shaft from moser to fix this 1/4" difference. I may be totally wrong but I think I just need to get these knuckles on so I can understand this a little better.
 

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i can see you all ready started 17 inch rims with at less 4inch of back space an PS rusty off road makes a complet kit i have price out even at the juck yard it a good deal
 

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pssss spacers should be weleded the knuckel pre heated an let them cool slow one guy some were made a point of buried them in 5 gal bucket of sand over night after welding dam good idear solw cooling keeps welds from ripping them selfs apart of trying to rip apart an warping the steel
 
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