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Discussion Starter #1
I have been looking at Grand Cherokees for a while - I like the four doors and the straight axles.
I had a really built out 89 bronco 2 for the last year and had a lot of fun with it. On my last trip my wife came along and decided she really likes off roading. so we decided to sell the B2 and go look for a 4 door off road vechile.
my B2
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75872

I have had my eye on a really built out grand cherokee for the last year. The guy just did not want to sell it for a long time. We finally came to a price and I traded off my b2 for a 69 fj40 plus cash. sold some more stuff and finally bought this ZJ

Specs
1993 ZJ 4.0 6, auto , np231 rubicon transfer case 4-1 low, 33" BFG MTRs, tacoma rear axle with ARB locker, long Arm 4 link using Johnny Joints, Remote resivor Bilstens in the rear, Front axle is a complete custom job- Yota center section, 3" heavy wall axle tubes, D44 3/4 outers 6 bolt in front 4.88's front and rear Open front. Custom Three link in front with Jonny joints, Fabtech front shocks - top mounts moved up.
Front receiver mount for winch and wired up
Custom desert fenders in front
angle iron rocker guards
4 point roll bar that is going to be changed
cb radio - ham radio will be coming soon
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Pictures

purpose of this vehicle is family wheeling plus search and rescue. I am going to have to play with rear spring rates to compensate for all the gear that I carry.

pics of outside plus the Toyota axles.























 

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Discussion Starter #3
roll cage stuff

got a qoute of $200 to weld in a half cage to tie in the existing mid hoop behind the driver up and over the rear passengers to the rear.
this is me cutting out the rear bars and clean them up. give them the tube in case they can use it.
then have them bend up two rear hoops , have two top connector bars, 1 top connector bar, then fit and weld in bars.
It would be a lot cheaper if I fit and weld the bars in. However, in this case since my kids lives could be at stake I want someone else to weld them in. someone who welds all the time instead of amateur me.

I have no problem welding in the non support bars in the back for the tire since it is non load bearing
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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I like your thinking, I do the same thing. For critical items, I have a pro help out.

I think this is the first yota axle swap I have seen, glad it is working out for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
guy before me did the yota swap with help from welderboy on pirate 4x4

I need to see about getting a spare front axle made as it is a custom job
 

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Discussion Starter #6
flexed out the zj today 34 inches in front and 32" in rear
looks like if I add 1" spacers I could get even more flex
hopefully next week I will have enough spare change to get the interior roll cage built. picked up all the spare parts that the previous owner had. fenders, door panels, wiring harness, lots of relays, computers, seats and more. Really need to decide on what to keep.
 

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Just curious when you say you flex the front 34 inches, from what point do you measure? I just want to compare my flex, sorry for the newbie question
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I will post pictures in a little bit. 34 inches under the front tire when lifted up by forklift and 32 inches under rear tire when lifted by forklift
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I need to figure out what RTI that equals to
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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Discussion Starter #11
cleaned out air filter - it was filthy! just knocking the filter against the tire had TONS of dirt pouring out. also noticed that the vacuum line going to the FPR from the intake was loose. wrapped safety wire around both sides to seal it down. -- it will get replaced as soon as I can order it.

drives MUCH better now! lots more power and it revs to 5200rpm where before it would not go over 4000.

already thinking about building my own CAI set up. I think I can make my own setup with lots of room for my air compressor. lots of parts laying around from previous setups
 

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Discussion Starter #12
also removed roll bar and cleaned it up in preparation for welding in the rear roll bar hoop behind the rear seat. Think it will get dropped off next friday if all goes well
 

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Discussion Starter #14
hopefully end of month I can get a run in to shake everything out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
guy before me did with big johnny joints and 1/4 think square tube. I can post some pictures
 

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The Jeep looks good. Got any pictures of the roll bar? I'm not quite ready for a full cage yet but have been considering building a roll bar with a harness bar.
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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cleaned out air filter - it was filthy! just knocking the filter against the tire had TONS of dirt pouring out. also noticed that the vacuum line going to the FPR from the intake was loose. wrapped safety wire around both sides to seal it down. -- it will get replaced as soon as I can order it.

drives MUCH better now! lots more power and it revs to 5200rpm where before it would not go over 4000.

already thinking about building my own CAI set up. I think I can make my own setup with lots of room for my air compressor. lots of parts laying around from previous setups
Do you have a washable/oil filter like a K&N, or a paper filter?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
not of the finished product. I have the hoop cleaned up and ready to go back in. Need to drop it off this week to get the rear hoop bent up

it has a paper fram in it now. I have a couple of 3" k&N's sitting around. I think that I can fav up a heat shield around a filter if I go that route or put in a flat k&N filter in the stock box
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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I was going to say that if you gained power by knocking the garbage out of the filter, that it really should be replaced. But if you are going to fab up something else for a cone filter, I wouldn't want to spend any $ on a new paper filter either.
 
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