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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have read for months about long arm kits I read thread after thread about Rustys long arm kit. Everyone talked about everything except rustys kit only one or two people actually had it most people where just hearsay bashing it. So i am going to be the test subject. I have currently ordered the 5.5 long arm kit and a sye kit with Tom Woods rear shaft. I also ordered the dana 30 weld on truss bracket and reinforced c's. I plan to run a 1 in puck on top of the kit and 33 12.50 15. I am excited to see what happens here. Not to mention this is my first project Jeep and the first lift kit i have put on personal vehicles. I have done some others for people on chevy trucks and dodge trucks but no jeeps and surely not my own. I decided instead of going short arm and working my way up to save the cash and go big or go home so this otta be interesting for me. I will post pics as soon as kit is getting installed so if anyone is interested the rustys kit i should have the project ready to go in about 2 months. I am also building homemade rocksliders that will serve as a sub frame stiffener also.. Fun Fun Fun for me i will let you know how this turns out.
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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The difference in ride and quality comes down to the joints and the shocks. Some kits come with great joints, others are not so great. Everyone has their own preference on shocks. I have an RK kit on my WJ, it is decent. I have replaced the joints. I love the ride of the springs and the shocks.

Keep us posted with pics, I look forward to seeing your sliders and how you tie them in. I have Iceland sliders which I love because I don't loose ground clearance. I will likely tie them into the subframe and brace a bit more later this year.
 

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Crap. I just posted this same question lol.. And I really did search first! :D

Well let me know how it goes. I may end up getting mine before yours, only I want to go w/the upgrade only and use JKS/IRO track bars and 4" springs.
 

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I love rustys products. However......upgrade your bushings. I have a 3" lift on my xj with their forged flex joint lca's. The rubber bushings are shot. I thought my uca bushings were shot being that they are stock, but when i took off my lowers to tighten the flex joint, the rubber bushing nearly fell out. I installed these arms back in august and never got to do any wheeling with them yet. So ya cant blame it on the terrain or abuse i put it through. Also, a buddy of mine bought the 4" lift for his grand waggy and had the same problem. But he called up and complained and they told him he had to upgrade the bushings. That is my only complaint about the company, other than shipping costs. Good luck with the long arm kit though....and i wouldnt use the pucks either, too much leverage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i dont want to cut the fenders thats why i was thinking the 1in pucks but when i put it on i will see what the clearance is before i buy the pucks. i need a new dana 30 from stock wheelin. so more money into the zj pit what lockers do you guys recommend i still have to drive this to work but only 15miles round trip any suggestions?
 

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I dont think you quite understand the theory of what i meant. The long arm kit i highly doubt you can put spacers under.... Its meant to tie in your frame and double as the trans crossmember. The crossmember your going to get is going to be similar to the original one you have, but is gonna be much longer where it ties into each frame rail. It will probably run a good length of the undercarraige considering it will be front and rear long arm. The pucks would be great if you kept the short arm to get good angles for driveshafts. If you have an sye you wouldnt need the pucks. As for your locker question.....aussie locker in the rear, and front a tru trac or selectable locker.... Thats just my opinion though. A friend of mine has a 89 fs waggy with an aussie in the rear and limited slip in the front and its ungodly and unstopable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
the kit finally got here 10 days shipping, not to bad for 10 packages this kit looks beefy
Will rustys send the upgraded bushings if they go bad?
is the tru trac and the selectable locker similar to the air locker?
i know the trutrac is a rachet locker right? but i dont know about the selectable locker
i decided after i seen the kit not to run the pucks
i am just waiting to do the install till i have another 200 for the sye and driveshaft kit but i also want to tie the subframe with 1/4in plate to reinforce it
then it on to building the ultimate dana 30 front with the truss kit and maybe the inside axle tube kit but i was wondering about how u change the axle seals with the weld in tube kit?
anyone know about these ? i will be starting the install in about 2 weeks
i will keep u posted with pics
James
 

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The shot bushings are inherent to the radius arm front suspension that naturally binds during flexing. People running Clayton's run into the exact same problem about the bushings. Unless you limit your flex, you are going to go through UCA bushings pretty frequently.

I ran my Clayton's kit for about three years with the flex limited to just where the coil spring unseated and my bushings were still in good condition. Flex is overrated anyways -- especially when you are running lockers front and rear. I've yet to run into a situation where I thought "man I wish I had more flex". Sure my RTI scores aren't anything to write home about, but I'm more than will to sacrifice that for less wear and tear on the bushings and other components (such as shocks). Not to mention that the reduced droop also allows me to actually steer my tires when I'm flexed out on the trails.
 

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a selectable locker is an arb locker, or ected.....as for the bushings, it appears that rustys use a factory bushing. if thats the case, then a set of polyurethane bushings would work ideally the best. the urethane would actually make the suspension more stable, especially on joints with flex ends. and as for the tubing kit and seals, i think the want you to use the new seals that go into the end of the tube, but if your gonna put all that fab work and build a rear, why not just buy a 44 for it from g2? it would probably be cheaper.
 

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The truetrac is detroit lockers version of a limited slip. It is a good idea because it is clutchless so it does not wear out as quickly, also no oil to deal with. I just ordered a spartan lunchbox for my front. And by pucks did you mean a tcase drop kit or spring spacers? You seemed to have meant spacers but others assumed you mean a drop kit. Just trying to clear that up. How are you making your sliders unibody stiffeners? are you running angle the length of the slider?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
are u talking about the upper ca bushing in the dana 30 or the bushings that hook to the subframe side the subframe side is a big metal flex joint the lower is rubber and the uca bushings are in the axle which ones are u talking about
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I was talking to sirfuego about the bushings
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i plan on tying from the subframe to the pinch weld for the rock sliders and using 1/4 in plate to box the subframe then use 1.25 square to go from the unibody to the pinch then put them into a 3in round tube with square notches cut in it
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
then also i was wondering what year the non c clip dana 35 came out in cherokees?
 

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early models were non c clip. i think 84- 89. i have a 90 with c clips. in my eyes 35's are all junk. but the best built ones were 84-90.
 

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When you say tie it into the pinch seam do you mean weld it to the seam or put plate on the tube and bolt it through the seam? I didn't think you could weld to the pinch seam, because it is a weld. I may be wrong, I haven't looked in awhile. I am thinking about boxing the unibody as well, but am not sure if it would be a better idea to combine the two parts into one item or to make them two separate pieces so the sliders are removable for repair/replacement. Toss the 35 and build a 8.8. Save for that and do it once instead of building two different things and it costing twice as much in the long run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
will the 8.8 bolt right up or do u have to put spring mount on it for a GC?
as far as the tieing to pinch weld i already welded a 1in piece of angle on there so if i hit while stock wheeling it would protect my underbody a little. i am going to weld solid and make the rock slider a super beef so the only way i would have to replace it is if i jump it off a moutain
 
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