Like everyone else, the instructions are quite vague. Oh yea, 7-8 hour to install, don't count on it. Plan on a weekend, if you don't have a lift and working off the floor.. The problems I encountered while installing the kit: (there are pros listed later)
REMOVE THE FRONT DRIVE SHAFT AND THE COMPLETE EXHAUST SYSTEM. Just my recommendation, gives you a lot more room to work with.
IF YOU HAVE TO REPLACE ANY WORN HARDWARE. ONLY USE METRIC GRADE 10.9. THIS IS A SPECIALLY HARDENED AND TEMPERED STEEL. Of course, available at your local stealership.
1. Somehow the 98 GC Limited uni-body frame is wider than most (shrugs). I called Rusty on this and they use a jig to ensure the transmission/front LA mount fits. My tranny/frame mount is different than what is out there. Mine has only 1 slot. I had to drill out the provided tranny mount to make it fit.
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![Image]()
2. Try drilling a 1/2" hole straight in the uni-body frame. Doesn't happen unless you have an angle drill (I didn't). My 1/2" hole went at an angle upwards, so I put the bolt in and pushed it upwards so that it was straight. I then took my small square and made a line around to the other side and drilled a pilot hole and then the 1" hole. As for drilling a 1" hole on the other side, a hole saw is your friend. A 1" drill bit does not work, believe me (smashed fingers from the torque on the drill) and the hole saw is so much quicker. Like 1 minute.
3. Not enough flat washers. The tabbed bolts need a washer on the inside of the frame so they will not get pulled through. In the instructions, they say to fish the tabbed bolts through an opening that is already existing, why not put them through the 1" hole you just drilled, makes it easier.
4. When they say to snug the bolts up to mark the holes for the frame mount, make sure you do it. If you have under body corrosion protection, remove it. I did not and learned a lesson. I have a 1/4" gap in the rear of the passenger front LA/frame mount. I' have to fix that.
5. Spring compressors are not needed if you have tall enough jack stands. The axle will literally sit on the garage floor when the control arms are off. If you need, you can rent them at your local auto house store.
6. The rear sleeves that go in the frame are to short in my opinion, maybe got the XJ's. I put an additional 2, 1/2" washers (they just fit in the bracket holes where the sleeves go in)on each bolt. This made it flush with the outside of the bracket so the larger washer wouldn't get deformed. Should have taken a picture.
7. The front track arm bracket did not have an extra hole that was needed. Drilled a 1" hole to accommodate.
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8. The only stuck item I had a problem with is the Pittman arm. I got the nut off but not the Pittman arm. A Pittman arm puller and a 650 ft.lb. impact wrench did not work. Broke the puller. Going to soak in PB Blaster for a couple of days.
9. The kit should use metric hardware. Now you have to carry a standard set with you also. Not that it looks like anything would ever break, but you never know.
10. If you have a stock exhaust system, the stock muffler is too wide and long.
11. Looking at the picture, Rusty's need to make the rear High Clearanced also.
Nice to have tools:
Angled drill motor.
Impact wrench
T55 Star wrench (for the track arm)
1" hole saw (a quality one)
1/2" Drill bit
3/8 and 1/2" socket set in metric and standard, up to 21MM and 7/8"
Set of combo metric/standard wrenches, up to 21MM and 7/8"
Pry bar
BFH
The mounting of the rest of the gear was straight forward. The mounting of the brackets, for me, has been a PIA due to inconsistencies for my vehicle. Been rode hard and put away to dry.
If you forgot like I did, the rear exhaust pipe goes over track arm.
Pros:
I didn't have to weld to the uni-body frame.
I haven't seen Clayton's set up, but the bracketry on Rusty's is 1/4" thick. Grade 8 or better hardware is used.
I do weld inspections for a major company. From what I have seen from Rusty's, is very good. This, in my opinion, is a quality product.
I could not ask for better customer service than what I got from Rusty's. If your are reasonable and don't go half cocked when dealing with them, Rusty will bend over backward to help you. I called them 4 times before and during the install.
I paid for 3 day shipping and most of the boxes were here the 2nd day. The other 2 boxes showed up on the 3rd.
All of the items listed for the kit was there.
The ride is way better than my 5.5" short arm. (3.25 Teraflex and 2.25 BB) I removed the rear anti-sway bar when doing this kit and don't even notice it is missing.
It soaks up the bumps smoothly compared to the SA set up. I suppose ALL LA kits will do this.
The biggie, NO drive line vibrations. I had to have a 1" transfer case/tranny drop before.
The wheels are more centered in the wheel wells. Before the tires were about 1" from the body. Now they are about 3-4" depending if its the front or rear.
Another vs, one of the reasons I went with this kit is because it has bushings instead of eye bolts. This absorbs a lot of the road vibes instead of transferring it to the body.
Over all opinion:
Its a PITA to install this kit if you think its going to get done in 1 day. 3, 6 hour days for me and I have been turning wrenches for 35+ years. Rusty's need to get a better installation guide made up. I had times scratching my head trying to figure how to install something. Actually if there were pictures of what it looked like after installation. I have quite a few if anyone needs, just send a PM. Now that everything is installed, I am quite satisfied with the over all looks/ride/ and damn the articulation.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
REMOVE THE FRONT DRIVE SHAFT AND THE COMPLETE EXHAUST SYSTEM. Just my recommendation, gives you a lot more room to work with.
IF YOU HAVE TO REPLACE ANY WORN HARDWARE. ONLY USE METRIC GRADE 10.9. THIS IS A SPECIALLY HARDENED AND TEMPERED STEEL. Of course, available at your local stealership.
1. Somehow the 98 GC Limited uni-body frame is wider than most (shrugs). I called Rusty on this and they use a jig to ensure the transmission/front LA mount fits. My tranny/frame mount is different than what is out there. Mine has only 1 slot. I had to drill out the provided tranny mount to make it fit.
2. Try drilling a 1/2" hole straight in the uni-body frame. Doesn't happen unless you have an angle drill (I didn't). My 1/2" hole went at an angle upwards, so I put the bolt in and pushed it upwards so that it was straight. I then took my small square and made a line around to the other side and drilled a pilot hole and then the 1" hole. As for drilling a 1" hole on the other side, a hole saw is your friend. A 1" drill bit does not work, believe me (smashed fingers from the torque on the drill) and the hole saw is so much quicker. Like 1 minute.
3. Not enough flat washers. The tabbed bolts need a washer on the inside of the frame so they will not get pulled through. In the instructions, they say to fish the tabbed bolts through an opening that is already existing, why not put them through the 1" hole you just drilled, makes it easier.
4. When they say to snug the bolts up to mark the holes for the frame mount, make sure you do it. If you have under body corrosion protection, remove it. I did not and learned a lesson. I have a 1/4" gap in the rear of the passenger front LA/frame mount. I' have to fix that.
5. Spring compressors are not needed if you have tall enough jack stands. The axle will literally sit on the garage floor when the control arms are off. If you need, you can rent them at your local auto house store.
6. The rear sleeves that go in the frame are to short in my opinion, maybe got the XJ's. I put an additional 2, 1/2" washers (they just fit in the bracket holes where the sleeves go in)on each bolt. This made it flush with the outside of the bracket so the larger washer wouldn't get deformed. Should have taken a picture.
7. The front track arm bracket did not have an extra hole that was needed. Drilled a 1" hole to accommodate.
8. The only stuck item I had a problem with is the Pittman arm. I got the nut off but not the Pittman arm. A Pittman arm puller and a 650 ft.lb. impact wrench did not work. Broke the puller. Going to soak in PB Blaster for a couple of days.
9. The kit should use metric hardware. Now you have to carry a standard set with you also. Not that it looks like anything would ever break, but you never know.
10. If you have a stock exhaust system, the stock muffler is too wide and long.
11. Looking at the picture, Rusty's need to make the rear High Clearanced also.
Nice to have tools:
Angled drill motor.
Impact wrench
T55 Star wrench (for the track arm)
1" hole saw (a quality one)
1/2" Drill bit
3/8 and 1/2" socket set in metric and standard, up to 21MM and 7/8"
Set of combo metric/standard wrenches, up to 21MM and 7/8"
Pry bar
BFH
The mounting of the rest of the gear was straight forward. The mounting of the brackets, for me, has been a PIA due to inconsistencies for my vehicle. Been rode hard and put away to dry.
If you forgot like I did, the rear exhaust pipe goes over track arm.
Pros:
I didn't have to weld to the uni-body frame.
I haven't seen Clayton's set up, but the bracketry on Rusty's is 1/4" thick. Grade 8 or better hardware is used.
I do weld inspections for a major company. From what I have seen from Rusty's, is very good. This, in my opinion, is a quality product.
I could not ask for better customer service than what I got from Rusty's. If your are reasonable and don't go half cocked when dealing with them, Rusty will bend over backward to help you. I called them 4 times before and during the install.
I paid for 3 day shipping and most of the boxes were here the 2nd day. The other 2 boxes showed up on the 3rd.
All of the items listed for the kit was there.
The ride is way better than my 5.5" short arm. (3.25 Teraflex and 2.25 BB) I removed the rear anti-sway bar when doing this kit and don't even notice it is missing.
It soaks up the bumps smoothly compared to the SA set up. I suppose ALL LA kits will do this.
The biggie, NO drive line vibrations. I had to have a 1" transfer case/tranny drop before.
The wheels are more centered in the wheel wells. Before the tires were about 1" from the body. Now they are about 3-4" depending if its the front or rear.
Another vs, one of the reasons I went with this kit is because it has bushings instead of eye bolts. This absorbs a lot of the road vibes instead of transferring it to the body.
Over all opinion:
Its a PITA to install this kit if you think its going to get done in 1 day. 3, 6 hour days for me and I have been turning wrenches for 35+ years. Rusty's need to get a better installation guide made up. I had times scratching my head trying to figure how to install something. Actually if there were pictures of what it looked like after installation. I have quite a few if anyone needs, just send a PM. Now that everything is installed, I am quite satisfied with the over all looks/ride/ and damn the articulation.
