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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here are some pics for ya...








Should have some trail pics in a few weeks as i'm moving to OR next week...looking forward to the new wheelin :)
 

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Sweet.

Would love some shots of the rear upper mount and the brackets at the subframe for the lower arms.

Jay
 

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Can you tell me just what that tri-link in the rear is supposed to do? Is it to replace the track bar? Can you take a pic of the tri-link rear and post it? Do you think it would work with short arms as well?
 

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according to the rockkrawler website the tri link suspension does replace the rear track bar, but its main function is to create a rear link with as little binding as possible. also the tri link will work with short arm systems, check their website out for more info.

http://www.rockkrawler.com
 

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Does it also replace the rear upper control arms? It's $400 just for the tri-link conversion. Is that worth it?
 

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Beestieboy said:
Does it also replace the rear upper control arms? It's $400 just for the tri-link conversion. Is that worth it?
The tri-link replaces every rear "link". The upper control arms are ditched in favor of a triangle mounting system to the top of the rear diff. The lowers well, if your going long arms, they go, but if you can stay with short adjustables.

John
 

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Beestieboy said:
Can you tell me just what that tri-link in the rear is supposed to do? Is it to replace the track bar? Can you take a pic of the tri-link rear and post it? Do you think it would work with short arms as well?

is the front track bar still there?


lotus
 

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Where does the tri-link mount on the body/subframe? Does is use the existing UCA mounting points? It is hard to tell from the pictures

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sry about the delayed replying guys....been busy with the move from NJ => OR.

I can't recall the mounting position from memory...i having 33's put on this Friday so i will take a look and let you know then.

I will also be posting some new pics of RT with the new rubber and flex shot to boot.

---------------

Considered 35's but 2 things stopped me...

1) My axles are 'too' stock.
2) According to RK (& several people trying) the ZJ rear wells cannot accept 35's without completely being hatched to death (not only the outside rim but the rear panelling as well).....that is if you WANT flex with the 35's...if you're going to collect the groceries then no problem ;)
 

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The upper tri uses the stock upper mounts. Looks good, though my personal humble opinion, I am not too crazy about the 3 arms in the front or the round tubing for that matter. Claytons kit is 1/4 in square 2"x2". Just seems a lot stronger in my opinion. I think if your running a long arm set up, that 33 inch tires is a wasted tire size. Most guys that I know with 31's can follow just about any one with 33's, so the next step up would be at least 35's for the larger obsticles. You can trim cleanly and not make your rig looked hacked. This is a shot with 36's. I am going to trim the wells and shorten the bumpers and run 37" MTR's. I feel I can do this and make it look clean.
here is a crude shot of what I will trim.
 

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Chris_L said:
though my personal humble opinion, I am not too crazy about the 3 arms in the front or the round tubing for that matter.
How many times do I have to correct this misconception? The RK arms are not round tubing, they are SOLID stock. You will not bend/break them without your Jeep being dropped out of a plane at 30K ft. The front 3-link, I have no quams whatsoever about it providing the person welding the torque arm bracket to the axle isn't using a flare and a coat hanger to make the weld.
 

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[/quote]How many times do I have to correct this misconception? The RK arms are not round tubing, they are SOLID stock. You will not bend/break them without your Jeep being dropped out of a plane at 30K ft. The front 3-link, I have no quams whatsoever about it providing the person welding the torque arm bracket to the axle isn't using a flare and a coat hanger to make the weld.[/quote]

For one there is no misconception. "I worded it wrong" my mistake, and I admit it. I am very clear on the solid stock verses the Clayton square 1/4 inch tubing. This was not a flame or dis by any means, I was simply giving my opinion. I will suggest to Mr. Blaine that we use a coat hanger and a flair for the weld up of my HP nine next weekend, and make sure that your name is mentioned as reference for tips on "welding for dummies".
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Chris...the outer edges of the wheel wells are no problem...i think your totally correct with your rough sketch.

BUT...35's+ will apparently not fully (more than a 'few' inches of flex) stuff as they hit the well inner panel....i think alot of non jeepers cut out the wheel well panel and replace it with a after market wheel well (excuse my terminology) :)

But by all means try....as next year...after i replace my axles...i'm also gonna try for the 37's.

But this is an even bigger decision...as with 35's+ i believe that a D60 quality axle is required....especially if you have V8 power ???

I may decide to stop at a fully locked and load ZJ with 35" Boggers cw/ Superior D44 w/ OX locks.

But whats the latest on the large / small flex - large / small tire debate ?
 

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RufftyTuffty said:
Chris...the outer edges of the wheel wells are no problem...i think your totally correct with your rough sketch.

BUT...35's+ will apparently not fully (more than a 'few' inches of flex) stuff as they hit the well inner panel....i think alot of non jeepers cut out the wheel well panel and replace it with a after market wheel well (excuse my terminology) :)
This is definitely a function of the Tri-link rear as mine and Pearce's flex in this fasion. Cool thing is it will let you run wider axles or less backspaced wheels and still stuff like a pro. Bad thing is that with what is generally conscidered "optimal" backspacing on one of these vehicles keeps the rears barely rubbing on the inside of the wheel well....
Oh RT- Does the fact that the rear Tri-link on yours is much shorter than the lowers cause any funny driveline angles upon compression? My CAD models I did when designing my longarms definitely showed that a shorter upper link wanted to turn the pinion to odd angles if the suspension compressed or drooped simultaneously... The pinion turned down at compression and up on droop.... note that under compression and droop i this case I mean the entire axle, as compression on one side and droop on the other kind of cancels out and keeps the center of the axle roughly static... Just curious.
Tim
 
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