The tri-link replaces every rear "link". The upper control arms are ditched in favor of a triangle mounting system to the top of the rear diff. The lowers well, if your going long arms, they go, but if you can stay with short adjustables.Beestieboy said:Does it also replace the rear upper control arms? It's $400 just for the tri-link conversion. Is that worth it?
Beestieboy said:Can you tell me just what that tri-link in the rear is supposed to do? Is it to replace the track bar? Can you take a pic of the tri-link rear and post it? Do you think it would work with short arms as well?
How many times do I have to correct this misconception? The RK arms are not round tubing, they are SOLID stock. You will not bend/break them without your Jeep being dropped out of a plane at 30K ft. The front 3-link, I have no quams whatsoever about it providing the person welding the torque arm bracket to the axle isn't using a flare and a coat hanger to make the weld.Chris_L said:though my personal humble opinion, I am not too crazy about the 3 arms in the front or the round tubing for that matter.
This is definitely a function of the Tri-link rear as mine and Pearce's flex in this fasion. Cool thing is it will let you run wider axles or less backspaced wheels and still stuff like a pro. Bad thing is that with what is generally conscidered "optimal" backspacing on one of these vehicles keeps the rears barely rubbing on the inside of the wheel well....RufftyTuffty said:Chris...the outer edges of the wheel wells are no problem...i think your totally correct with your rough sketch.
BUT...35's+ will apparently not fully (more than a 'few' inches of flex) stuff as they hit the well inner panel....i think alot of non jeepers cut out the wheel well panel and replace it with a after market wheel well (excuse my terminology)