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looks great!
i was just being critical on the rocker tie-ins. they're vulnerable to damage wheeling, and you'll have to work around them if you put sliders on. but hey, the more attatchments to the unibody the better...
the lift is way better than mine though, congrats dude!
flex shot?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
GORMAN 4x4 Training area

Thanks GreenMachine, So here are some new pics
So, Here I am in beginners area and I have a perfect shot of articulation but also a nice shot of gettting stuck on a perfect setup of loosing traction in the front right and left rear tires..Lockers Lockers Lockers...
My rear left tires in pictures is just hanging. Its not even on the ground. I went into this ditch in a perfect wrong angle to get stuck.



 

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Hey rexxiboy90807. The Jeep looks awesome! I can't wait to put my RE long arm on my rig! If you do ever decide to go higher definitely stay away from spacers and get their 4.5" springs. The coils are pretty inexpensive and you would make a decent amount back by selling the 3.5" springs. If you need to go higher you can actually run their TJ front 7.5" springs and use their zj front 4.5 coils in the rear which will give you just over 6" of lift. You might have to cut the rear springs down a bit to keep things level.
 

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Lock the rear and move up to 4.5"...


Looks awesome, but if you really wanna flex it out and get the articulation that the LA kit was meant for you need longer springs and shocks...

I was at 4.5 on the RE short arm lift and got that flex. YOu have a far superior setup, but being so low won't let you use it.

A locker makes a WORLD of difference also.
 

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if those tires were rubbing at all, i think all you need is longer shocks. why not allow more droop?
one thing i did to help mine a little were bar pin eliminators. they basically lengthened the existing front shocks a bit. good shocks are expensive :(
 

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Discussion Starter #26
if those tires were rubbing at all, i think all you need is longer shocks. why not allow more droop?
one thing i did to help mine a little were bar pin eliminators. they basically lengthened the existing front shocks a bit. good shocks are expensive :(
Both front left and rear right where buried in the wheel well and was slight rubbing. The front right was pretty much digging the sand there. I was wishing I had more flex in the back, I don't know if a 4.5" spring would give that specially you are adding another 1 inch lift?
 

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you want more flex in rear? so what is holding that tire from dropping to the ground? gotta be the shocks man...
if your shop sold you 3.5 lift shocks to match your 3.5 lift springs, they should have thought about it more imo...
 

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I just looked back and realized you have rear LA's too. Your rear end should have a lot more flex than that. You definitely should get longer shocks.



The way I have always been told to measure for shocks is to remove them, then use a lift to cycle the suspension and take measurements to see how the compressed/extended lengths are.

You have a GREAT suspension setup, take advantage of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
you want more flex in rear? so what is holding that tire from dropping to the ground? gotta be the shocks man...
if your shop sold you 3.5 lift shocks to match your 3.5 lift springs, they should have thought about it more imo...
Green, I specifically instructed the shop to get me shocks capable of 4.5" springs when I later upgrade. It will be a big debacle if the shop failed to that. If I recall, I do not thing the rear right tires went all the way up to the well, it stopped just 1 inch above the fender which was noticeable because my tires had some slight scrape on them.
What you guys think.. upgrade springs? or add ACOS? the ACOS i starts at 1.25.
 

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sorry to get hung up on your shocks, didnt know it was maybe your fenders preventing flex?
just trying to help with what you have been sayin. thought you had selected 3.5 springs cuz you wanted low, but whatever makes sense to you now...
fwiw, i do think you could tweek it with your current springs and get way more flex than that.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Are you still running a rear sway bar?
Yes, I am running the Rubicon provided Sway bar.

Correction: I am running the stock sway bar.
 

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monotube

Yes, I am running the Rubicon provided Sway bar.
i have a 3.5 RE but w/o the LA. I ended up cuttin out my rear sway bar and threw it in the trash, i get quite a bit off of that, i went w/ the monotube RE shocks, dunno how you like the ones you got but i love mine, but i still wish i had the LA, so im still pretty jealous

 

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Definitly lose the rear sway bar. Also (not that you can do anything about it now) having a setup that includes a rear panhard bar tends limit the droop somewhat.

Please don't take that the wrong way. You've got a great kit and your Jeep looks really nice. BTW, I ran those MX6s on my last TJ (w/LAs) and they worked flawlessly for me. I could even jump that Jeep without drama.
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
i have a 3.5 RE but w/o the LA. I ended up cuttin out my rear sway bar and threw it in the trash, i get quite a bit off of that, i went w/ the monotube RE shocks, dunno how you like the ones you got but i love mine, but i still wish i had the LA, so im still pretty jealous

@ zj_brillo-Thanks, as you know since 2006 I wanted some kind of lift. I saw a lot of short arms setup from rusty,kevin's,full traction etc, but after being in NAGCA for 2 years I was convince that I have to go for LA. I am happy with it since this is also my family truck and I drive it a lot on freeways. It is really stable and handles better than my previous stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
UPDATE: NEW RUSTY SKID PLATE
My transfer case is slightly lower than stock due to the Rubicon Express Crossmember for the long arms. So I custom fab a 2x3 square tubing to fill the gap from the frame to the TC skid.

Here the 2x3 square tubing is bolted inside and another long bolt from the transfer skid.



Great Thanks to Rusty himself who gave me the advice to add those square tubing.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
UPDATE: New JKS Bar Pin Eliminator. Finally I can get rid of the ka-clunk ka-clunk noise in my front end.


Thanks to Four X Doctor in Burbank installed for $60 bucks. Labor only.
 

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Hi Rexxiboy,

From looking at your install photos, it looks like your rear sway bar is only about an inch way from hitting your upper long arm. And this is when sitting on level ground.
This is the photo I'm talking about.




I'm installing the same RE8300 on my 98 5.9 ZJ, only sticking with 4.5"
You can see here when checking my rig with the springs removed how my bump stop is still 2 inches above the axle, and the upper LA and sway bar are hitting



And here's a view of the other side, of course the lines and brackets still need to be removed.



Here's what Rubicon Express says to do.
Per the head of our R&D department, it was recommended to put a slight bend in the control arm to clear the sway bar. No more bend than is necessary to clear the sway bar at full compression with the bump stop extensions installed.

Other people are telling me to remove the rear sway bar, but I want to keep it.

Just wondering if your rig is still like this or have you done something about it yet?
 
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