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sraczka

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
i'm trying to loosen the pinion nut on my D35 rear end. I need to replace the rear pinion oil seal. I am having a difficult time trying to loosen the nut on the pinion shaft.

Are there any tricks that I can try before I buy a special tool?

all solutions welcome..thanks
 
Lots of penetrating oil (valvoline preferred) and a very long breaker bar.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
the yoke and pinion keep turning with the socket wrench, thus allowing the wheels to move slightly. it won't allow any true amount of force to loosen. what can I do to keep the yoke/pinion and wheels stable? is the "special tool" necessary??

all advice appreciated.
 
sraczka said:
the yoke and pinion keep turning with the socket wrench, thus allowing the wheels to move slightly. it won't allow any true amount of force to loosen. what can I do to keep the yoke/pinion and wheels stable? is the "special tool" necessary??

all advice appreciated.
Apply the parking brake or put the Jeep on the ground.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
jeep is already on the ground, and parking brake installed. I think i might know a way to keep the yoke stable....but any other suggestions would help. :crazy
 
sraczka said:
jeep is already on the ground, and parking brake installed. I think i might know a way to keep the yoke stable....but any other suggestions would help. :crazy
Big pipe wrench around the yoke works as well.
 
BMRisko is right, use a big pipe wrench. You know....the big "monkey wrenchs"? Put that on the yoke and then let it hit the frame or ground. You might need to put a piece of pipe on it if you don't have a super big one. Then put a pipe on your ratchet to turn that nut. :cool:
 
I made a special tool for this: I got a piece of 2' long 1/4" thick L bracket (Home Depot probably has some) and drilled four holes in the pattern of the yoke slightly larger than the bolt's OD (outside diameter) for some "slop" in case I didn't get them perfectly centered. Then, I took a hole-saw large enough to fit the socket through and drilled the center out of the plate. Now, just thread in a couple (or all four is safer) of the bolts through the tool and let it hit the ground. Voila...an instant pinion brake.

-=Kevin=-
 
The first time I had to do this was on a 3/4t Dodge pickup.
I eventually put a long pipe on the breaker bar, wedged it up in the frame, put the truck in 4L and drove it for a foot. That loosened off the nut.
Warning: I can't remember if I drove in forward or reverse. One way loosens the nut.. the other way lay disaster.
Nowadays I have a tool I made that holds the yoke. But that was then, this is now.
 
impact is the best way, but if you want, use a good socket, and a bar long enough to hit the ground. then put the socket on and push the jeep so the bar touches the ground. then use 4 wheel drive and drive the jeep slow. (holding the nut and turning the pinion) make sure your going the right way. it will all make sence when your under there. pipe should be on the driver side and i think your drive forward but make sure.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
got it!! I used a big chain that i bolted to the yoke using the u-joint attachment bolts and I wrapped it around the lower control arm and bolted it up...that held it in place. then I used a pnuematic floor jack to raise the socket wrench. worked B-E-A-utiful.

BUT NOW I CAN'T REmoVE THE PINION OIL SEAL!!!!

is the oil seal similar to the aftermarket (without a lip), or is there a lip integrated into the original seal? I'm trying to pry the seal out, but its stuck. There is a lip that is evident on the outside of the differential case, but I don't want to mess with it - not sure if its attached to the seal casting. any suggestions? is the seal just plain stuck? will a punch and hammer do it? and where should I hit the seal from to get it out? thanks again
 
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