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Discussion Starter #1
I want everyone to contribute to this. If you feel you know the answer to a noob question please post the question with a definitive answer in this thread. A link to a previous thread will suffice. But, PLEASE POST THE QUESTION.

Example of a noob question:
Can I run 31" tires on a BB?

Answer:
Yes, you'll rub at full flex/full turn.
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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Discussion Starter #5
How can I spend my $700 Government Kickback?

On a Front to Rear Swap (F>R):

Clayton Adjustable Trackbar w/ drop bracket (First & Last Trackbar you'll ever buy) - $260
http://www.claytonoffroad.com/index.aspx?sdr=/get.doc.aspx&qs=LD:Products Other&l=category&p=susacc
JKS Upper Shock Loop Conversion - $30
http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/jksusc.html
JKS Bar Pin Eliminators - $40
http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/jksbpes.html
RE Rear Drop TB Bracket - $70
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Products.aspx?Cn=270&Pn=1785&XnPath=173,181,252,270&Vid=F7E28E5194830
RE Front 3.5" Coil Springs - $175
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Products.aspx?Cn=239&Pn=1708&XnPath=173,181,239&Vid=2034D05248251
JKS Quicker Disconnects - $130
http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/jksdiscos.html

You'll still need to buy shocks. You CANNOT go any higher on stock control arms. (Technically you can, but, I will HIGHLY DISCOURAGE ANYONE FROM DOING SO.) With this setup you'll be able to build upon it when you decide to go bigger. There's always someone trying to get rid of their old springs and drop brackets, etc. So scour the boards for them if you don't want to pay full retail for a new set.
 

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Originally posted by Johnny_C. Thanks for the info, this is important to new comers that want some information about their Jeeps


"so it seems to be a common question: what tire will fit what. so i found this fitment chart on JP magazines website and its a good start, I also thought I would throw some personal input in as well, figure others could post what works for them too

heres the chart: this is a a great starting point:



other things I have found for the ZJ

at 3" of lift you can generally run a 32" tire, it may require some minor fender trimming

33x10.5 will work on a ZJ with 3.5" of lift, and 33x12.5 will fit with some trimming and hammering down the inner pinch seam.

i have seen 34" LTBs on a jeep with 3" of lift and worked on mine with 3.5 as well.

at 5.5" of lift on short arms I ran 35s but rubbed a lot. there was a lot of cutting needed. if i kept the sway bar conected 35s worked

anything bigger than 35s (or in most cases to run 35s you will need a long arm kit. there is lots of info on this website pertaining to this and the issues associated with it

for the WJ

from research i've found on assorted websites what i've seen: a 32" tire will fit with a WJ with 3" of lift. some companies call for 4" I am going to see if i can make these fit with my 2" budget lift
a 33 will also fit with 4" (285x75) and some bumper trimming

6" long arm kits you can usually get away with a 35" tire. I am not 100% on this, i'm sure there are people on this site who can chime in

found this too: http://www.4lo.com/calc/gearmetric.htm for those of us who have no friggin clue what a pmetric size tire translates to in inches

hope this helps some newbs"

Again, this is a repost, I do not take credit for any of the content. Hope this helps everyone

RockZJ



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
 

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No. A steering stabilizer will not get rid of DW, but only mask it. The real problem will still remain and does not originate with the SS.

Check all your bushings, bolts, etc.

Depending on your height, your axle may not be centered, causing the DW. And adjustable track bar will solve this.

One time, my DW came back and it took me forever to figure it out - but I finally saw that my lower CA mounts had been almost completely ripped off the axle... eek. Re-welded them and it was all good.

Basically, look around under there and see what you can find...

But it's not the SS.
 

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545RFE 5 spd. automatic transmission used in the 2001 - Current Model Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L engines

45RFE: 4 spd. automatic transmission used in 1999 - 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokees with 4.7L engines.
Everything that I've read says that the 45RFE and the 545RFE are identical transmissions, with the 545RFE getting revised programming to take advantage of the 2nd overdrive. 99 + 00 can get their PCM reflashed to get the 2nd overdrive. In theory anyway. I've found a d44hp/ford9" set of axles that I'm planning on swapping into my WJ, and when I do I'll let you know how the reflash goes.


Also, the "let us know" link on the transmission info page isn't a mailto: link, so it's messed up.
 

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Best lockers? Best BB? Other ZJ noob questions.

I think it's good to get all these questions stuffed into one thread and have it stickied for noobs like myself.

As for best BB, here's a few good ones:

Rocky Road budget boost w/ and w/o shocks

The Rocky Road one comes with Bar Pin Eliminators if you don't get shocks, so I'd have to say that's the best way to go if you're not getting new shocks.

4 wheel customs 2.25" BBs. Skyjacker or Rubicon Express shocks.

Rusty's Off road 1.75" BB with shocks.
Rusty's Off road 1.75" BB without shocks.

As for good lockers, here's what I have so far:

There's always the Expensive ARB Air lockers.

The popular Aussie "lunchbox" style lockers

Powertrax Lock-Right auto Locker. A Cheap but good "lunchbox" locker.
 

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Noob question

That running water sound in your dash is air in your heater core.
 

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noob question

I want to do a front to rear coil swap. I have heard it can just put the rear coils on the front and put two new 3.5inch on the rear and that is all i need. So my question is... Can i put a 3.5in lift on my 95 gc with only doing that? Or would i need to get all the extras too.
 

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oh and if i do this lift can i also add a bb to it or is that adding a lot more part. I am trying to do it as cheap as possible without buying sh!tty part. What I do I want to last but I don't wanna buy extra if I don't absolutly need it.
 

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For one i believe you are mistaken... you put the front springs on the rear and get new front springs. Also going that high without some upgrades can really cause problems i.e. death wobble. you are really pushing your stock control arms to their limits with the 3.5 and to throw a bb on top of that would cause more troubles than you want. going that high you would want to go with a long arm kit plus steering upgrades and i hope you have different shocks and swaybar links in mind. and your stock track bar will need some attention. you can do up to 4 inches or so on a low budget but any more than that get pricey real fast.
 

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I have done it the cheap way... and i have already destroyed one zj, God rest her soul, i have a second chance in my garage right now... take your time, do it the right way. You will thank yourself.
 

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thanks

Ok thanks that is what i was looking for I wasn't already in the plans of doing it I just heard it could be done that way. I was looking for the correct way of doing it. So I put the front springs on the back and buy new ones for the front, I will need a new ss and an adjustable track bar. New shocks. (which I was going to whether I needed to or not) New control arms. So with all that I can go 4 inches is that with the bb or before the bb?
 

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I am honestly not sure how high you can go with the swap, I do know it depends on how old the springs are since they sag over time. I am personally going with the rough country 4 inch lift kit for 750... i think you should do some research and see how complete of a kit you can find in the price range you can afford. but i do know that if you venture above four inches you can plan on eating ramen for a while because it get spendy to do it right. here are some threads that changed my life... learn them, use them, save up to 55%
http://www.nagca.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27597 and http://www.nagca.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21827
 

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Im on 5.5 lift- budget crunched.front to rear swap is what i started with. got everything from KevinsOffroad though it wasnt cheap i got quality parts most of which can be used down the line and w higher lift. I went with RE front springs added an inch spacer to rear w old front springs, track bar conversion- stock setup is junk. and with that added a JKS adj tb- adjustablitity is pretty important when you start adding lift.
That is all you really NEED. however i added JKS sway bar discos for ease of disconnecting it obviously and adding flex.- good thing is they adjust and can be used at later w more lift. I also got Rubicon Express shocks- not a must but stock will limit droop and ride quality over all. You can do the f-r swap then add them a few weeks later of course and that is no problem.
Steering damper or stabilizer isnt an issue unless its already blown imo.

Down the road i got some adjustable control arms. first JKS front lowers then RE uppers.. i got both sets used online for a decent price. these werent a dire need when i first did the lift and rolling on 31 x 10.5s but 33 12.5s on 3.5 lift needed the axle pushed forward for sure.

Im currently at 5.5 lift after adding 2 inch spacers all around. I was on 33s w this set up really well. I added an adj JKS track bar for the rear to center the axle but other then that not a whole lot as far as suspension. Im on 35s now and STOCK rear control arms. the axle cant really go back (gas tank) so there hasnt been any real need. I still get a ton of flex for short arms and wouldnt waste the money on adj rears as it would be better spent on long arms. Not everyone agrees on my set up but it works. check my build and see what you think.
Oh ya 96sdgc mentioned steering. I dont think lift height matters so much as tires size. if you have the 4.slOw then a cheap upgrade is the V8 drag link and tierod swap. cheap at a junk yard and bolt in. Steering box might get sad after time so another good upgrade is a waggy or j10/20 sterering box. bigger piston? adds a fourth mounting bold and is fairly cheap at the bone yard as well. Id also add a steering brace like the one KOR sells to relieve sress as well.
It all depends on your coin and intentions. You dont have to drop 2 gs on a LA kit right away and you can get by w bare minimum essentials. just my 2 cents good luck.

 

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need any more help feel free to ask. we are all in this together.
 
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