Jeep Grand Cherokee Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

loud noise, started quiet but has gotten loud and now is loud whether engine is warm or cold. Other than the noise, the engine runs great.

I have been running mobil 1 synthetic, thinking i need to go back to conventional

sounds like a lifter but i am no expert in 4.0s

what are the possible causes?

lifter?
injector?
other?

thank you for any help you can offer
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
I bet this is it. And dont go back to conventional oil! synthetic is way better!
The DCP solenoid is near the master cylinder. Has vacuum lines running to it. basically, remove it from the inner fender well and zip tie is securely to something that wont transmit the sound through the body. Thats where the noise if coming from.
Here is the TSB:

Emissions - Ticking Sound With Engine Idling


NUMBER: 25-001-03

GROUP: Emissions

DATE: Feb. 21, 2003

SUBJECT:
Duty Cycle Purge Solenoid Causes A Ticking-Like Sound From Engine Compartment

OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves isolating the Duty Cycle Purge (DCP) solenoid from the vehicle body.

MODELS:

2002 - 2004 (WJ) Grand Cherokee (Domestic Markets Only)

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:

The customer while sitting in the passenger compartment may notice a ticking-like sound when the engine is idling. The sound may be more noticeable in colder ambient temperatures. Mechanical contact between the DCP solenoid and the body of the vehicle may be the cause of the ticking-like sound.

The ticking-like sound may also be described as a tapping or clicking-like sound. The sound may appear to be similar to the sound produced by a worn or loose engine valve train component, such as a valve lifter.

DIAGNOSIS:

1. Use the Actuator Mode on the DRB III(R) scan tool to cycle the DCP solenoid. Navigate through the following menus on the DRB III(R): Main Menu, Stand-Alone Menu, 1998-2003 Diagnostic Menu, Select System Menu - Engine, Select Function Menu, Actuators Menu. Scroll over to page 4 of 5 in the Actuators Menu to find the Evap Purge Solenoid.

2. Verify the customer complaint. Sit in the driver seat with all doors closed. The fan on the DRB III(R) can be quieted by temporarily covering the fan exhaust port with your hand. Actuate the DCP solenoid.

3. If the ticking-like sound is present, remove the DCP solenoid from its mounting bracket but keep the evaporative and electrical connections connected to the DCP solenoid. Allow the DCP solenoid to hang in place free of contact with the rest of the vehicle.

4. Actuate the DCP solenoid with the DRB III(R). If the ticking-like sound is now diminished in sound level or is no longer present, then perform the Repair Procedure.

5. If the ticking-like sound is still present, then further diagnosis is required.

NOTE :THIS REPAIR PROCEDURE IS INTENDED TO ADDRESS DCP SOLENOID GENERATED SOUND THAT IS TRANSMITTED THROUGH THE BODY OF THE VEHICLE (STRUCTURE BORNE). THE DCP SOLENOID MAY ALSO EMIT SOUNDS THAT ARE AUDIBLE AND NOT BODY TRANSMITTED. A DEGREE OF AUDIBLE SOUND FROM THE DCP SOLENOID IS NORMAL TO THE OPERATION OF THE DCP SOLENOID AND IS NOT ADDRESSED BY THIS REPAIR PROCEDURE.


PARTS REQUIRED:

REPAIR PROCEDURE:

1. With the ignition switch in the "OFF" position, disconnect the evaporative vapor lines and the electrical connection from the DCP solenoid.

NOTE : THE DCP SOLENOID HAS A CORRECT MOUNTING ORIENTATION. THE BODY OF THE DCP SOLENOID IS MARKED WITH THE WORDS "UP" AND "BOTTOM". THE ELECTRICAL SECTION OF THE SOLENOID MUST BE ON TOP WHILE THE DIAPHRAGM PORTION OF THE SOLENOID MUST FACE DOWN.

2. Remove the DCP solenoid from its plastic body mounting bracket by grasping the DCP solenoid and lifting upward.

3. Note how the rubber bushing is installed to the DCP solenoid before removing the bushing from the solenoid. The original bushing has a wide slot through the middle of the bushing. Remove the original bushing and install the new bushing with the narrow slot, p/n 53030987.

4. Install the new isolation U-bracket to the plastic body mounting bracket.


5. Install the DCP solenoid (with the new narrow slot bushing) to the isolation U-bracket. Make sure that the DCP solenoid is correctly oriented. (Fig. 1)

6. Install the evaporative vapor lines and the electrical connector to the DCP solenoid.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
Very good TSB. However, not everyone has a DRB-III!!! (My dad's partner stole "our" DRB-II when he left the dealer to open the shop with my dad. Came in handy, lol). Anyway, have you narrowed the sound down to the engine itself? The above TSB covers something heard from the driver's seat, more or less. If you are sure it is coming from the engine, then take a long socket extension and place one end on different parts of the engine and the other end at your ear, with your hand cupped between. It's like a stethoscope... If it's louder at the valve cover than at the base of the distributor or oil pan, then you might have a bad lifter. If the noise is louder south of the border, then a bad main or rod bearing may be your issue...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
The TSB is for shop diagnosis, so its pretty envolved. Im a mechanic and am able to get all TSB's on vehicles. The ticking noise decribed in this TSB, is heard anywhere around the vehicle. It sounds just like a lifter. I've heard this before in person and its pretty loud. You also dont need a DRB to fix or even diagnose this issue. You can physcially feel and hear the solenoid ticking away! You are right about the internal engine noises though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
288 Posts
If it sounds like bottom end i'd drop the oilpan and check for a broken piston skirt... which is not uncommon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Try a heavier weight synthetic oil. If it ticks with a synthetic oil it most certainly will with a dino as the dino oil breaks down faster. Also use a good quality oil filter
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top