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Discussion Starter #1
I guess I am having too much fun with the forum but here is another request for opinion. I have been wanting to add Air Lockers but with a gear ratio change, the Air lockers, Air compressor and labor this can cost between 3 and 4k. I drive my WJ to work everyday and I think a typical locking (Such as the detroit Locker)differential my not be a good idea. I have notice several new semi or limited slip type units but I am curious to know if anyone out there has found them of benifit. Some seem to need too much enertia to lock up and will not be good for rock crawling. What have some of you GC owners done besides air lockers and what pro's and con's do you see.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have a 2001 WJ with the I6. I have 3:73 and want to go to 4:11 or 4:56 gears. It is the selec trac with 242 t case.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
One more thing I live in Colorado and like to drive the mine trails and do see a lot of rocks and inclines along the way. I do not plan to go beyond 265 tires and while I will be doing some crawling over rocks I will not be trying to go extreme.
 

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I don't have any experience other than that of the hydraloks (ya right) on my WJ. When I do my axle swap here in the next 2 months, I'm going straight to ARB's. Perhaps someone will be able to give you more input on other devices.

Anton
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for your comments. I am not familiar with the Hydralok. What type of system is that and what are your opinions. I see you are from Denver and you probably see the same type of use I do. How has your system worked on and off road.
 

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I'm from good ole Missourah. BTW, gear reduction shouldn't be an issue. The hydraloks are what come on the Quadra Drive system for the WJ. You get a 247 case and hydraloks in the diffs. Theoretically, if one wheel slips, power is transfered to the other wheel via a fluid engaged clutch that "locks" the diff. This may have worked on a stock WJ, but with 33's no way.

Anton

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: AAMC on 2002-01-30 18:53 ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sorry I missed the the state. Thanks I did not realize the Hydralok was part of the Quadra Drive system. Well I am still looking for a solution that makes sense for my use. It still looks like at least a front ARB system but who knows someone else may have a positive review on the limited slip approach.
 

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I'm not a big fan of ARBs. I've seen them fail too many times out on the trails. I'd put a Detroit out back and gear to at least 4.56s. going from 3.73-4.11 isn't even worth the cost of labor.

For the front you can put an ARB if you'd like. I'd go with nothing or if you really want something a LS, but with as little off-roading that you're going to do, then an ARB is too expensive, and not necesary.

Thats my .02
Hal


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ROKN ZJ on 2002-01-31 00:24 ]</font>
 

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Get a true trac for light wheeling, but not if your going over 32's or 33's. I just picked up a used arb locker this evening for $300 bucks {less the seleniod and compressor} It's going in a high pinion D-30 with 4.88's.
 

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I love ARB's but they're too rich for my blood. You have the 242 I see. I HIGHLY recoment lock rights front and rear. Randy's ring and pinion will give you both shipped for around 450 I think. It's not much money and it's just crazy off road. You'll never notice the locker on road in 2wd, if you drive in the snow a lot, it'll take some getting used to but I don't mind it. You really can't beat churning all for tires at the same speed. If you have the money for an ARB in the front go for it but I'd still go with an auto locker in the rear JUST IN CASE...
-Nate
 

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OX LOCK...the only way to go for FULL lock.

The front D30 is 'only' $600.

But, they wont make one for the D44A /forum/images/smiles/icon_frown.gif

So to do the rear, ur gonna have to swap the rear out.

Even then the rear OX LOCK is about $1,400 :eek:



_________________
97 V8 TSi; 30" BFG M/T KM's; Full mopar skids; Rock-it diff guards; ORGS Supernerf's; Flowmaster 50; K&N FIPK; Rancho RS5000 SS; 2T come-along & straps; JB 231HD waiting for RK 7" kit.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: RufftyTuffty on 2002-01-31 09:09 ]</font>
 

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What are the best options for a Quad Trac II?
I was thinking OX front and Detroit back, is this feasable? I definitely want the Ox but what are my options for the rear?

Thanks in advance.
Brett
Almost forgot, I have the I6 engine._________________
2000 WJ 2.5"RK BB, 245/75-16 A/Ts, Uniden Pro520XL w/Firestik II

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: SLO MO on 2002-01-31 14:53 ]</font>
 

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The Ox Trax is a good strong atlernative to the ARB Air Locker. It is made here in the USA. Check them out at http://www.oxtrax.com

When you are ready to get a locker and gears be sure to go to Randy's Ring & Pinion. Tell them that the crew at NAGCA sent you. They will give you a good price.

Clay
 

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Well for a controllable Locker.

ARB: has redesigned theres again to a four spyder gear type (if i remember right) anyway some redesign.

OX locker: uses a cable to engage.
big nasty diff cover (they had some problems clearing the steering linkage when they first came out, I think they got that fixed).

And there is news of a new elctric locker about to be released,
Toyota trucks use this now?

Or go cheap with like a lock rite or simular
LSD. They are cheap and easy to install and many claim they do well in a steer axle.

IMHO:
For the Rear axle go with a full Detroit
(EZ-Locker?). It will be there working when everything else has quit.
 

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Clay, James, thanks for your input. I'm almost positive I'll get the OX for the front but I'm concerned about using a Detroit in the back. Will this mess up my Quad Trac II?
Thanks again for the tips.

Brett
 

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I'd highly recommend the OX even though I don't have one of my own. But I do have ARBs front and rear in my '75 CJ-5. Such a pain in the rear (no pun intended) running air compressor, air tank, switches, filters, hoses, wires, fittings, check valve, etc. etc. etc. where things fail (air leaks, ripped off hoses, failed solenoids, blown fuses, EXPENSIVE, o-rings go bad, etc.) Now my spare parts list has nearly doubled with the ARBs. I've heard some people say they're great for about the first year then the locker itself starts to leak air and the seals have to be replaced. Wish I'd done OX Trax in the old CJ.

In my '96 Grand I'm doing OX rear at least with the Superior Axles Super 35 kit. Maybe in the front too if any locker at all. Aircraft grade cable, stout diff cover, U.S.A. made, surely it can't be that bad. Great reviews so far but it's fairly new to the fray.
 

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On 2002-01-30 17:59, AAMC wrote:
4.0 or 4.7, and what 4 wheel drive system do you have in your WJ.
Keith, Power Trax makes a no-slip for your rear 35C with 3.73 gears and an open carrier, that is ABS compatible.

I have one in my ZJ and it performs as advertized.
It is quiet, locks up immediately, allows differentiation around corners, and is actually not too bad in the snow on the road.

I think due to the weight of the grand, the fact that you have an auto tranny (which keeps constant load on the locker) and your longer wheelbase, this is a great option.

I know several SWB guys who don't like them, but they all have manual trannys too, which takes some practice or patience to get it to disengage properly. This is not an issue on autotrannys.

As an added bonus it is very easy to install.

HTH
Zac
 

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What about running a auto locker in the front also? I have seen someone on a trail with a 96 XJ that was locked front and rear with autolockers (detroit?) and he had no problems with steering. I guess it won't actuate the locker until the 4wd is engaged and the driveshaft puts power to the front diff. I am not sure how streetable this type of set up is, any comments???
 

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SLO MO
The answer is no.
Also: lockers have nothing to do with ABS brakes. The Tone rings are at the axle ends near the brakes.
Good luck :)
 
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