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XJ and Wj are 2 different animals. Rough country may provide the appropriate length bar, but hasn't had the best reliability that I've read. If you get an adjustable, most make them so 4" is the lowest setting, but if you add lift later, you won't need a new bar, just an adjustment. You don't necessarily need quick discos with 4" but you need at least extended links. At 4", you won't necessarily need long arms off the bat, but may want them later to ease up the ride. You will probably want adjustable front lowers though, at least. Look at Teraflex for some good 4" springs on clearance. Shop for a better shock too.
 

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I had a question for someone out there that can help me. I currently have have a 2" bb sitting on 30's. The kit came with pro comp shocks and obviously pucks. I wanna bump up to a 3.5" lift and 33" tires. If I go with 3" coils/ springs and remove the pucks, would I need to get longer shocks then the ones that came with the 2" bb. Any answers help, I'm a newb.
 

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I had a question for someone out there that can help me. I currently have have a 2" bb sitting on 30's. The kit came with pro comp shocks and obviously pucks. I wanna bump up to a 3.5" lift and 33" tires. If I go with 3" coils/ springs and remove the pucks, would I need to get longer shocks then the ones that came with the 2" bb. Any answers help, I'm a newb.
You could probably get by with the same shocks, but just realize your shocks will be the limiting factor in your flex which means they will probably wear out faster.
 

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I had a question for someone out there that can help me. I currently have have a 2" bb sitting on 30's. The kit came with pro comp shocks and obviously pucks. I wanna bump up to a 3.5" lift and 33" tires. If I go with 3" coils/ springs and remove the pucks, would I need to get longer shocks then the ones that came with the 2" bb. Any answers help, I'm a newb.
Buy this and stop worrying http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-Z3FSK&Category_Code=PFZ
 

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We have a 1999 WJ. 1999 to 2004 are the same. First I put 2" spring spacers in. No real change in ride. Then went the big bucks and bought the 5½" Rock Krawler suspension. Drives MUCH differently now. It's no longer just a luxury SUV, and it's noisy. Four inches on stock suspension components is pushing it. A whole new suspension is expensive - brake lines, shocks, exhaust modifications, front driveline slip yoke eliminator, etc. Tough decision. What we have done to our WJ is NOT a good decision if intended use is simply winter commuting on two lane highway. If we don't use this offroad in rough going, we've wasted a lot of money .

How do you plan to use it? FYI, we have 255/85R16 rubber on the WJ now, and there's no way we can go any bigger without fender surgery. So remember, it will take ridiculous amounts of lift to fit really big rubber under a WJ, unless you're willing to start cutting on the body.

My own dilemna now, is that we normally have gear inside the vehicle, the 87 lb. spare is now on the Rola roof rack, the rear seems to sit a bit lower than the front. I still need to make a front end guard and set it up for receiver mount winch on either end, but I'm thinking about trying to level it out by adding spacers to rear springs only. I still have the 2" spring spacers I bought from Les Schwab. I doubt the spacers will make my 5½" suspension into 7½" on the rear because springs do compress and I'm not changing spring rate. But I think/hope it will level the rig out with its normal load, while not changing the handling significantly or even costing me another front end alignment.
 

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Doesn't seem to make as difference as one would hope, at least in regard to tires. We can just BARELY fit narrow 33" rubber without fender surgery. At least, that's how it is with a WJ.
 

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great thread, i feel like i have been a little educated. I mean, i know most of it but thinking about keeping axle centered, i never wouldve thought of that. Just stuff like that. Now let's keep Jeepin!
 

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OK So I'm looking at the Clayton long arm system for my WJ and I've been getting a range of information. I'm in between just buying the control arms and supplying my own coils/shocks, or buying the lift kit with the Bilstein 5100 shocks. Which way would you go and what parts would you use? I've been ready to order this thing since March.
 

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I am not familiar with Clayton, but based on my experience with the long front arms of the Rock Krawler, I'd suggest talking to someone who has one on your type of vehicle. In our case, we found that we can't turn quite as sharp as we used to. The back inner edge of the tread rubs the arms as we approach full lock. Wheels with more negative offset would move farther forward and back when turning, so likely run into the fender openings.

We drove down a sort of home made ATV and 4x4 road the other day, ran around on the Sauk River bar a bit, practiced a little shooting, then went home. Rubbing of rear tires on rear mud flaps was very obvious at times as the suspension worked over rough terrain. I don't know of there's much I can do to replace are modify those rear flaps without doing a little surgery on the backs of the rear fender openings. We've rubbed through the upper part of the mudflap on one side.

OTOH, it was a nice day, we had fun. :)
 

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Why wouldn't you just order the kit with the Claytons coils, can you source them somewhere else for less?

Tires rubbing the long arm...pretty normal unless you have an extreme offset. It isn't a big deal to me, I don't mind it and it doesn't cause me problems.
 

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so I read though this thread and didn't find any where that anyone mentioned an upgrade for the front axles. any recommendations there? thanks in advance
 

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im looking into the IRO 6.5" kit and want to run 33" tires. what gear ratios are every running? I have an 04' limited D35 and D44
 

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I haven't yet touched the axles on our 1999 WJ with QuadraDrive. I know they are tall for the 33's we're running, but I figure to use low range a lot when offroad. Those same tires are on my 460 powered four speed F250, and it runs 3.55 gears I believe. I hope oneday to have the same rubber on my 1996 Suburban (once I fix the transfer case). It runs 4.10 gears, but with modern automatic overdrive trans that is tall enough.

That 6.5" kit sounds interesting. If you go that route, post us a picture or two.
 

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Shock length?

Greetings All.
I have a 2001 WJ Grand Cherokee Limited. The previous owner lifted the front 2", and the back 2 1/2".
I want the Grand back to normal height, and have the original springs. The guy changed the shocks, for longer ones, and that's all, with the longer springs! No link arms, or other struts have been changed, to allow for the lift:-(
Question, when I lower the Grand to close to original height, will the shocks be too long??? Bottoming out on rough surfaces??
I want the Grand, to do long runs through Europe, smooth, and comfortable, and Warm!! With the running gear, at the right angle, saving the back axel, etc....
Thanks in advance....

Chris...........
Norway
Today outside temp = -12,8c
 

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Hi Chris,
The shocks will most likely be too long and require replacing and you could find the bump stops have been modified/lengthened to prevent topping out on travel.
Also worth slackening the arm bolts when you lower it and torque them with vehicle weight on the wheels or on the axles with stands under axles to stop the bushes tearing.
There is a possibility if he lifted it on the cheap he kept the standard shocks on it but most people fit longer travel units
 

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Thanks to all on this question. Nice to meet a fellow Brit, I am from Wales, been here in Norway 40 years!
Yes the guy before me changed, the springs and shocks, for longer ones, and that's it!!
I know that by doing this only, puts extra wear on the back axel seals, as the angles of the gearboxes, and running gear, are not set up to take the lift. That's the reason that I want to have it at the original height.
Thanks again one and all.
chris
Freezing Norway this morning -11,7c......
 

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with a 2 inch lift the angles should remain near to stock and not give any undue wear :)
In the middle of giving my ZJ a lift, so far fitted adjustable upper and lower rear arms all round, now to buy and fit the rest of the kit :)
Coldest I been in UK is -7c but back to =5-7 at moment :)
 

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Lift options

Noob here. Own a 2000 TJ and looking at adding a ZJ for a family light wheeling vehicle. I'm currently looking at a 96 4.0 and all time 4wd. Only wanting to go 3-3.5" with 31's or 32's. Kinda tight budget so looking at Rough Country lifts. One thing I've noticed is the rough country lift I'm looking at says it will not work on the AWD models. Can someone explain to me what would make this lift not compatible with the AWD model? Thanks in advance!
 
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