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Here it is. Ended up with just springs all the way around. No rear pucks on top of the front to rear. Net lift about 4 to 4.5"es. Rides better than it ever has. Wobble is completely gone...

Just waiting for the Icelandeic flares...

Lift:

-Front Crusty'd 6" XJ springs
-Crusty's non adj UCA and LCA's with stock rubber type bushings.
-Tereflex adj. Track bar, Bilstein Shocks
-Rough Country Drop Brackets 3+ inches of drop, and push front axle forward 1" Minor Fab work to get then to fit. CA's are at Stock angles.
-Extended Sway bar DC's
-Extended stainless steel brake lines


-front to rear up country V-8 springs
-rear Adj. UCA and LCA's with
-Rear adj track bar
-Bilstein shocks
-Extended sway bar links
Lift done by Tennessee Off Road!



 

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they are 31s he sold the jeep to me and next week ill be putting a 7in long arm lift on it..and soon as money permits ill be getting some 35in KM2s
 

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Hi I have a 98 rc 4" lift adj 8 arms adj track bar front and back hd steering I would like to put 285/75/16 or 315/75/16 tires will it rub and do i need to put 2 bb coil spacers to fit these tires thanks.
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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285's are much easier to fit.

You can run the 315's, but will need to do some major trimming. If you install the Iceland Offroad cut out flares, they should fit. I have the flares on my WJ, and the cutting really opens up the wheel wells. Without flares you will still need to trim heavily to run that size tire on 4 inches of lift.

That being said, large tires on 4 inches of lift is perfect. I would trim or save for flares before installing larger tires though. You may also want to extend your bumpstops.
 

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Thank you for the quick reply so i will start with 285 for now still need better gear right now 3.73 front and back.
 

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2 Front To Rear Swap

This is an inexpensive way to get about a 3" lift out of stock components with fewer addons. It utilizes the factory front springs, which are swapped to the rear and NEW taller front springs are added. Stock control arms are used to keep the price low. Parts that are neccesary are front 3"-3.5" springs, front adjustable track bar or bracket, shocks, and an alignment is a must. What is highly recommended for this type of lift are at least lower control arms and a steering stabilizer. Without at least lower control arms the maximum tire size without trimming would be about a 30" tall tire.
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could i do 1.5 ome springs and 1.5 or 2 pucks? if so will my trvel be limited by stock shocks.
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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Just to clarify as you quoted a post above, you CANNOT do the F-R swap on a WJ as the springs are different diameters.

At 3 to 3.5 inches, your travel would be severely limited by stock shocks. There are two ways to go about lifting a vehicle: The cheap way, and the right way.

After lifting many Jeeps (XJ, ZJ, WJ....and many for friends) I have learned a thing or two about wasting money going a little bit higher each time.

Here is what I recommend: Decide from day 1 how large of tires you want to run. Then you can pick a lift that is appropriate. Look at what rear axle you have and decide if it can handle the tire size you have selected. For a D35 I would stay at or below 32 (33 if you are easy on the skinny pedal when offroad), and for a D44 I would recommend 35 or less.

Keep reading and learning about your Jeep, and set money aside each month in savings.

If you never want to go more than 4 inches high, a short arm lift will be fine. If you want to go higher than 4 inches, you should get a long arm lift. I know they are more, but in the long run it is worth it for the ride quality and is pretty much necessary with the rear wishbone setup on the WJ IMO.

A complete short arm lift should include:
4 coil springs
4 lower control arms
Adjustable front track bar
Front Sway bar disconnects (if you plan on wheeling offroad. I bought these separate from my kit. If you don't plan on disconnecting, you will just need extended length links)
Extended rear sway bar endlinks
Possibly adjustable upper control arms to correct pinion angles and prevent vibrations
New shocks
Extended bumptops

There are a bunch of kits out there.

A complete Long Arm kit should include:
All of what is listed above
Upper Long arms
New arm mounts to be welded or bolted to the unibody
Rear upper truss or plate for the long arms to bolt onto (some kits have a new wishbone)
Coil Spring Retainers
Unibody bracing (I wish I had this, it will be added later as the RK kit does not come with it)

The long arm kits out there are IronRock Offroad, Rockkrawler, and Claytons.

In summary, there are ways to get a few inches. But do it right, get all the proper parts, keep your geometry the same, and lift your vehicle in a complete and safe fashion. Save money while you learn/read/research so that you buy what you want the first time, and don't end up "going just a bit higher" a few months down the road. Trust me, spending the money now will actually cost you less over time. If you just want to end up at 3-3.5 inches, I recommend getting a complete kit.
 

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thank you!! i was copletely unaware that f>r swaps didnt work on WJs save me a lot of time!!!
 

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Ok so this might be a noob question but i want to clarify something im wanting to lift my 04 wj pretty much for look it will very rarely be off road i want to do the rough country 4" with a 2" bb i will be running 305 45r22 o and i am getting the rough country dual steering stabalizer setup. is there anything i should check into or buy for this setup? any comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated thanks
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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At 6 inches, you should get a long arm kit not a short arm kit with spacers stacked on top.

Sure, you can do it that way, but it will ride like garbage. The angle on the control arms will be pretty extreme. You will feel every bump in the road. The harsh ride will be worsened in your scenario as you are planning to run low profile tires.

I know that long arm kits are 3 times as much money, but anything above 4 inches should be a long arm kit, especially on the WJ with the rear wishbone suspension.

Having an adjustable trackbar is more important than dual steering stabilizers. If you are getting them for the looks, go for it. But you shouldn't need anything more than one basic stabilizer if your jeep is set up correctly and your suspension is functioning correctly.

At six inches, you will need adjustable control arms to keep your driveline angles to be right on to avoid vibration issues. Yet another reason to get a long arm kit. If your pinion/driveline angles are not correct, you will have terrible vibrations. At six inches, you may also need new drivelines, especially if your front shaft is not a single/double cardan shaft.
 

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so the XJ drop brackets fit??????? can you post a pic of the DB's on your ZJ??


Here it is. Ended up with just springs all the way around. No rear pucks on top of the front to rear. Net lift about 4 to 4.5"es. Rides better than it ever has. Wobble is completely gone...

Just waiting for the Icelandeic flares...

Lift:

-Front Crusty'd 6" XJ springs
-Crusty's non adj UCA and LCA's with stock rubber type bushings.
-Tereflex adj. Track bar, Bilstein Shocks
-Rough Country Drop Brackets 3+ inches of drop, and push front axle forward 1" Minor Fab work to get then to fit. CA's are at Stock angles.
-Extended Sway bar DC's
-Extended stainless steel brake lines


-front to rear up country V-8 springs
-rear Adj. UCA and LCA's with
-Rear adj track bar
-Bilstein shocks
-Extended sway bar links
Lift done by Tennessee Off Road!



 

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I am currently a short arm rubicon express kit with 3.5". I am wondering how much lift I can do by swaping springs with the sa kit, before I have to upgrade to a LA?
 

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Hi GrandEms you can go up to 4.5 anymore and the ride will be crap on short arm's. I plan on going to long arm's next spring.
 

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Well the angle of the short arms make it that any bump you it the vibration is sent right in too the frame it's like you have no suspention. The ride off road or on pavement sucks. good luck with the futur lift.This is a pic of mine riht now soon long arms.



 

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What does a crap ride mean? I mean do any of us Realy buy a jeep for the ride? I would have function over luxury any day.
Personally I bought my ZJ just for that reason, I was tired of driving a DD that road like crap, was loud as hell on the highway, and wasn't comfortable for long trips. Most people that buy a ZJ want the luxury, and the offroad capability. If you don't care about ride quality buy an XJ or YJ and wheel that. It's not just about ride quality when you're talkin about jackin up the suspension on short arms. It is also a lot of stress on all of the components...even more so the mounts. So if you plan to "use" your ZJ once it's lifted, and aren't running long arms. Be prepared for all the bad BS you hear about to happen as time wears out the parts. The way not to become part of the horror stories about sheered off mounts, and twisted CA's is to buy the right parts once, the first time, and build accordingly.
 

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Short arms are really only a temporary solution. For the big picture long arms are the way to go. You get more flex much better ride on and off road. They are money well spent on any WJ.
 

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so I've been on this forum for a few months now and I've been doing A LOT of reading ever since lol. alright now to the questions, first off I have an 04' WJ and I'm looking into putting a 4" lift and have since loose ends I want to tie up. now from what I've read I dont have to extend brake lines our my drive shaft but I've read about wanting to get an adjustable front track bar, I'm looking at tge rough country kit and I believe it comes with a new track bar but I dont think its adjustable. I already know I'm getting a steering stabilizer on top of the kit do I need the quick disconnects on top of the kit also? last but not least my buddy has an xj with a 4" lift and mentioned I may want to get a control arm drop kit.... I may have missed it but I haven't seen those mentioned anywhere on here. thanks in advance guys!
 
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