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oh ok... yeah i have both the plastic bumpers so i don't have to trim.. and i'm going to go and bend over all the sharp metal stuff and then try it, i'll try to get 9.5 wide tires so i don't have to worry about the CAS as much.
anyway thanks for the info i'll keep an eye out here for more from anyone that has done it or has any ideas.
Sam


P.S. got the BB installed yesterday and so far so good, had a clunk going on and my friend helped me find out it was the front track bar so tightend it up and it's all good now so yup.
 

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Heres a question that i'm still unclear about after reading all the after posts....
can i fit 32s with a 2" BB. i don't have front or rear bumper plastics on anymore beacuse i'm working on building rock bumpers so no trimming there but anywhere else i have to worry about?
I have a 3 inch BDS kit on my 98 with 1 inch spacers on top of the springs. I'm running 31 inch Hankook MTs on my stock Canyon wheels, front bumper is trimmed. With my front swaybar disconnected my tires still rub on occasion at full stuff. The rears also rubbed the inside of the fenderwells at full stuff. Nothing bad happened, but I've witnessed some shredded sidewalls on trail rides with tires that worked fine on the street. YMMV.
 

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oh cool that' s what i was wondering so 32's would probly rub a lot at full flex... i'll just stick to getting 31s for now then and i'll go higher on lift to get bigger ones later.
anyway that's what i wanted to know thanks man. !!

Sam
 

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The required parts will be identical. As far as the suspension is concerned, the jeeps will perform the same. I bet the only difference would be that with two wheel drive you would not have to worry about the front drive shaft vibrations some people experience at higher speeds.

A two wheel drive GC would have all the same difficulties as a 4x4, like death wobble, bump steer, etc. But no worries on the front DS.

Might be a little easier to install too, since there is no front power-train pieces to work around, like the differential. Not by much though.

One question though: Why would you lift a 2x4 Jeep? You will not be needing the extra clearance if you can't effectively travel off-road anyway. ;) (just kidding!)
 

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The jeep I am lifting is 4x4 my buddy has a 2x4 lifted and we want to swap and was not sure what parts I would need to get to put it on my 4x4
 

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Anyone ever run 285/75/16's on a BB?
I'm all stock now clearing 245's with room to spare.

This jeep will be mostly a street/camping rig and see moderate trails. The seem in fender well will be smashed flat and I'm not too concerned about rubbing control arms.
Just curious if anyone had pics of 285's or 33's on a mostly untrimmed ZJ with approx 2-3" lift. Thanks
 

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new to site and considering a ZJ soon. Just curious, will a 2" BB and cutting fenders (to match Bushwhackers) allow for 33"x12.5" tires or will I need more?

Can one do a F>R with the same cutout? Which would be better? Would a combo of both be better? How much can you go this way before you have to get into more parts swaps?

How recommended are the lower control arms? What success has been found with this lift/lift combo? My goal is wide 33's, done safely and dependable, on the smallest reasonable budget. Thanks for any input.


... Parts that are necessary are front 3"-3.5" springs, front adjustable track bar or bracket, shocks, and an alignment is a must. What is highly recommended for this type of lift are at least lower control arms and a steering stabilizer...
 

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Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but after installing my 2" BB while replacing my front 30, my track bar will no longer reach the axle bracket. The control arms are bolted up and now the track bar is over an inch shy of reaching the axle bracket.
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but after installing my 2" BB while replacing my front 30, my track bar will no longer reach the axle bracket. The control arms are bolted up and now the track bar is over an inch shy of reaching the axle bracket.
Have someone get in and turn the key to the on position, you shouldn't need to start the Jeep. Have them turn the steering wheel (it will make the body move and line the track bar back up). If the spacing gets worse when they turn the wheel one way, have them turn it the oppposite direction.
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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new to site and considering a ZJ soon. Just curious, will a 2" BB and cutting fenders (to match Bushwhackers) allow for 33"x12.5" tires or will I need more?

Can one do a F>R with the same cutout? Which would be better? Would a combo of both be better? How much can you go this way before you have to get into more parts swaps?

How recommended are the lower control arms? What success has been found with this lift/lift combo? My goal is wide 33's, done safely and dependable, on the smallest reasonable budget. Thanks for any input.
With 33's, you will likely need adjustable control arms to move the front axle forward. If you don't you will likely rub on the pinch seam and other metal when turning (Unless you are willing to smash the metal in with a sledge). If you did this, and cut your fenders, you may also need to extend bumpstops so that the tires don't stuff too high into the fender wells.

F/R swap with new longer front springs would be a higher lift option. But when you go over the 2 inch mark, you really should get adjustable track bars to keep at least your front centered, but back as well.

Either way, you should install new shocks to allow for full droop. My recommendation: Save up the money and buy a good kit. In the long run, you will have fewer problems. Many people start piecing a lift together, and end up spending as much or more than buying a complete kit. If you want cheap, 2 inch BB and 31's with some moderate trimming.
 

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Have someone get in and turn the key to the on position, you shouldn't need to start the Jeep. Have them turn the steering wheel (it will make the body move and line the track bar back up). If the spacing gets worse when they turn the wheel one way, have them turn it the oppposite direction.


do I do this before or after connecting the tie rods to the knuckles?
 

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tie rods need to be connected to make body move from side to side to line up track bar
 

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freaking sweet. I've just about got it now. I didn't really realize the tires needed to be mounted and the rig on the ground. I'll get my dad to hold the steering wheel for me tommorow while i put the bolt through the TB bracket. Thanks yall.
 

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Have someone get in and turn the key to the on position, you shouldn't need to start the Jeep. Have them turn the steering wheel (it will make the body move and line the track bar back up). If the spacing gets worse when they turn the wheel one way, have them turn it the oppposite direction.



if you are working alone, a concrete block and ratchet strap hooked to the steering wheel works.
 

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What I did to my ZJ was a little different... I did the F>R swap, but with a twist.

I picked up a set of GN (I think) code front springs (Upcountry V8), and installed those in the rear. Picked up 2.75" of lift in the rear w/o extra spacers. Didn't relocate track bar, and using stock control arms.

In the front, I picked up a set of front springs from a 70's F-150 2wd w/ a V8. Installed those in the front w/ a set of extra isolators that were pulled with the Upcountry springs. Ended up with 3" of lift in the front. Haven't changed the track bar or control arms either. Just an alignment.

Shocks? Rear are from a 95 F-150 2wd, but I am swapping to 95 F-150 4wd rear shocks because they are longer. Fronts are from a WJ, but too short. I am using a 2" extension right now, but front shocks from a YJ should cure it with the right length.

Of course I now have death wobble (hit a good bump at highway speeds and it sets the front end to vibrating and wobbling.). Also, when I turn the steering wheel to full lock either way, at the end of travel it tends to roll the axle.

Looks like i am going to have to do some more work... Any recommendations that wont break the bank?

BTW, this is a 96 ZJ w/ the 4.0 & 242.
 

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What I did to my ZJ was a little different... I did the F>R swap, but with a twist.

I picked up a set of GN (I think) code front springs (Upcountry V8), and installed those in the rear. Picked up 2.75" of lift in the rear w/o extra spacers. Didn't relocate track bar, and using stock control arms.

In the front, I picked up a set of front springs from a 70's F-150 2wd w/ a V8. Installed those in the front w/ a set of extra isolators that were pulled with the Upcountry springs. Ended up with 3" of lift in the front. Haven't changed the track bar or control arms either. Just an alignment.

Shocks? Rear are from a 95 F-150 2wd, but I am swapping to 95 F-150 4wd rear shocks because they are longer. Fronts are from a WJ, but too short. I am using a 2" extension right now, but front shocks from a YJ should cure it with the right length.

Of course I now have death wobble (hit a good bump at highway speeds and it sets the front end to vibrating and wobbling.). Also, when I turn the steering wheel to full lock either way, at the end of travel it tends to roll the axle.

Looks like i am going to have to do some more work... Any recommendations that wont break the bank?

BTW, this is a 96 ZJ w/ the 4.0 & 242.
Yes! Stop wasting money on junk yard parts, that do not work, and use it to get a correctly engineered lift kit.

You get death wobble because of improper steering angles. You get improper steering geometry because you are piecing together a lift and not getting the other goodies that correct your steering geometry and wheel alignment.
 

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Pay attention young Padawan.... Most 3" lift kits for the ZJ consist only of longer springs. No longer control arms, no adjustable track bars, but maybe longer shocks.

I am not paying $500 (give or take) for a set of springs. I have about $80 into this lift, including lifetime warranty shocks.

So, in conclusion, unless you can add something constructive to my post, or to this thread, I suggest you STFU and let someone answer my question who can point me in the right direction.

Now, if you would have said "You're axle is rolling at full lock because you need an adjustable track bar, or you need to relocate your current one." That would have been better. Not everyone is made of money, and can afford $3000 in suspension components.
 

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Installing my lift finally. It's a front to rear also. BUT, with all the right parts, still a PITA.

. I have non-adj. Front Crusty CA's Upper and lowers. I also added a Rough country CA drop bracket. Some slight fab is necessary to get it to fit, but it looks like the CA's are going to be at stock angles with 5+ inches of lift. Wheel will be centered in the wheel well openning. The RC DB's droped the front UCA and LCA at the uni about 3 to 4"es. Also moved the axle forward one inch. I also put on some extended quick DC's and extended stainless brake lines. It has an adj track bar too.

In the rear I have adj. UCA, and LCA,s. Front springs, 2" BB, and adj. track bar. That track bar hits the 3" exhaust, so I have to get the exhaust changed up a bit to clear it.

The new CA's are; Front stock rubber bushings. Very important to keep the ride smooth as silk. The rears are Poly bushings. I'll let you know if I like them, or not. Prob. would rather have stock rubber bushings all the way around.

The shocks are Bilsteins, with front BPE elim.

After much searching. CA lengths are;

F-UCA's = 16"es Stock = 15 1/4
F-LCA's = 16 5/8"es Stock = 15 5/8
R-UCA's = 14.5"es Stock = 13.5
R-LCA's = 17.5"es Stock = 16.5

I'll let you know how it rides. Should be better than what I had on there, cheap Hydro shocks with BB. My stock UCA and LCA's front and rear had really bad bushings, hence the DW more than likely at same speed 45 to 50 MPH. The right side front had very litttle bushings left at all. Both UCA and LCA were moving around on the axle.

Waiting for Icelandic flares, then will put on some 35" BFG AT KO's on my Trail Ready Beadlocks.
 
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