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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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Discussion Starter #61
I am going to try bringing my pinion angle up a bit more on mine to see if that helps. I have vibrations only when I am on the throttle above 30 MPH, or cruzing at 60+ MPH. I just don't want to go to far, mess up the caster, and cause DW (like shopping cart wheels flopping due to the caster being so far off).

If that doesn't work, I may need to get a double cardan shaft from Woods. If I do that, to I run the Pinion back down to factory so that the t-case output and pinion are parallel?
 

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i can see the pinion angle being a factor. i can also see the axel being to far rearward being a factor..... or if its not tracking properly...... you might want to double check all of that stuff..... just in case you have a bent control arm, or track bar.... doesnt hurt to look over all that stuff
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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3,762 Posts
Discussion Starter #63
Nothing is bent. I know I can bring the pinion angle up more, but don't want to mess up the caster. The axle is where i want it, but if you rotate the pinion up too high, it can create a shopping cart wheel type DW effect.

I will bring the pinion up and see what happens. I guess worst case scenario, I can rotate the pinion back down if it causes issues.
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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Discussion Starter #65
Wow, thanks for posting those up. Was there any structural damage to the fiberglass other than cosmetic? I am impressed that the bumper held up as well as it did when the brackets took enough of an impact to bend.
 

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no there was no damage to the bumper tahst why i added the pic of the backside of the bumper.... you cant even tell besides that the bumper sits crooked
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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Discussion Starter #67
With a day off, and some semi-warm weather, I decided it was time to paint the flares and bumper. They previously had just been gel coated white. They come ready for paint.

I started by taking the bumper and flares off. As the rear section of the flare is only accessible to remove if the rear interior panels are taken off, I decided I would just mask those off and paint them on the Jeep.

The bumper is off, this is just another pic of the winch cradle ready to go when that time comes:


Parts laid out on the floor:


The rear section still in place:


After the first coat of paint, you can see the masked off jeep in the background.


I just spray painted it. It took about 6 cans of spray paint, and 2 cans of clear. They were duplicolor cans I bought from Napa for $6 a piece, so it was a pretty inexpensive paint job. My color was stone white, not all of the local auto stores had it in stock:


A couple of pics from early today. I have the D-rings and mounts off for now. I want to paint them and let them cure for a bit before I put them on.

 

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WOW amazing write up. I have been looking into Iceland for a while. I had heard they were out of Utah but I didn't know for sure. There bumper has got to be one of the best on the market besides the one from Lone Star Racing one of the down sides to there bumper has got to be the weight of it. It's made from 1/4" and 1/8" steel so I am sure it's got to be at least twice as heavy if not more.
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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Discussion Starter #69
The LSR bumper is my favorite steel bumper, but the iceland is my favorite due to weight.
 

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This turned out great. When I was reading the install for the rear flares for my zj I thought to my self I would rather cut and fold the edges instead of trying to bring the gap together and tack and glue everything back together. So it was nice seeing it worked on that one grand.
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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Discussion Starter #71
Yeah. It is more work that way, but its the method most prefer.

I forgot you have a ZJ, not a WJ. But the installs are very similar.
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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Discussion Starter #73
I borrowed the gun from someone that moved.

But I also did rear fender trims with 801DubJay and Cgielin (both members of the Utah JeepCrew). We just pulled them into the shop in WX on a winter day, trimmed them, and used adhesive. They didn't apply flares, just trimmed for clearance and bonded the fenders.

The stuff is $50 and up per tube, I have purchased it through Superior Automotive and KC auto paint, both in SL. I bet the local Napa can get it in though. I have used both Valvoline Plyogrip, and 3M with good results. On those two dubs that we trimmed, we just mixed the stuff with a plastic knife in a plastic cup, half of the material at a time. Apply half to drivers side, and then mix the other half for the passenger side. If you decide to go that route...remember, it is in liquid form. I recommend placing tape all over the bottom edges of the fender panels to seal it up so that none will leak out. Apply it, and let it ooze down into the gap and even rest on the tape you have applied. Let it dry before removing what you can of the tape.

I covered everything with black silicone on the outside to ensure a good seal ($5 a tube stuff from Home Depot).
 

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This is great idea. I did find an applicator gun for 40 dollars on amazon so for that price I think ill buy it. They also have those brand of adhesive so maybe ill jut order it all today. Thanks again for the tips.
 

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Great job. I have been always fond of people who can do such things on their own. They have golden hands unlike me. I would never cope with anything like that. Every time I need to fix something, I have to go to the car service. Luckily, there a lot of excellent experts here https://areaphonecodes.com/united-states/619. I would like to be able to repair at least some minor issues.
 
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