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. I decided to go this route because the bumper doesn't weigh a ton like the ARB I was looking at. It comes with a winch cradle, so I can cut the bumper later and add a winch as the cradle is already in place. [/IMG]
So even if you get the non-winch bumper, it still comes with the steel winch cradle? Just trying to figure out how you'd rig the d-rings and mounts if it wouldn't come with it.
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
The winch cradle and bracketry are the same for the winch and non winch bumpers. The only difference when you buy the bumpers is that the winch bumper comes with the holes cut in the fiberglass, and with an aluminum fairlead. Other than the pre-cut fiberglass, everything else is identical.

If you look at this pic, you will see the brackets that go above and below the unibody frame rails. After those bolt down, the winch cradle (big piece of metal at the top of the pic) bolts between the two frame rail brackets. The D-ring mounts go into the outer holes seen in the cradle, and you can see the outlet for the winch cable. The cradle is also pre-drilled for the winch, you can see the holes. So if you order this one, you can easily slice into the fiberglass at a later time and run a winch.

 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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Discussion Starter #23
Here are some pics from Swat_Cash. He was recently in an accident, and this shows how the fiberglass bumper came out after the accident:

 

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Wow that car is hammered, I bet the guy that own's that car is pissed''' Thanks for sending that pic in, this kind of shows the strength of fiberglass Thanks 85IrocZ-28''.
Iam back from Washington William G.
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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Discussion Starter #26
I am prepping the sliders for install (Finally). I started by cleaning the surface rust off of the bare metal (where the welds were at). I guess that is what I get for waiting so long to get to this project.

Then I sprayed a self etching primer to prevent future rust and corrosion. I picked up a can of automotive quality primer from a local paint shop. I used SEM, it was about $15 for a can (15.5 oz), plenty to cover the sliders. I still have some left That I will use to hit a couple of rust spots on the underside of the Jeep.


The second pic shows the full primer. After I finished with the self etching, it let it cure for 1 hour. I then sprayed metal primer over everything to coat the surface. I will apply one more coat tonight in one area that I scratched. This will give me enough volume to sand down and eliminate the scratch.



I ordered the paint and hope to get it soon, I want to get these on!
 

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Dude... What up?! You coming to the campout?!

I love my Iceland Sliders, You will notice a stiffness in your rig after you put them on.. It really make the body feel more Rigid.

Nice write up..
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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Discussion Starter #28
Cool, I am glad to hear that.

I wish I could be there, but I have already committed to be at the state capital for the rally. We want to keep Utah lands open and the feds out. They already control over 50% of the land in our state, which to me is absolutely out of control.
 

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ha over 60% i think! i forgot u were going to that.. I want to but i can bail on the entire group and camping is my reward from the police academy graduation.. ha ha
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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Discussion Starter #30
Cool, congrats on the graduation. Enjoy little Moab, I wish I could do both.
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
I finished all the primer, and have the bottom and inside sections of the slider painted white. I have not painted the forward facing edge yet, it is still just primer colored. I will wait and paint that with a factory matching paint. The bottom will get scratched up though, so I plan on just using rattle can white for those sections. It is pretty close in color, and it won't be seen unless you are under the Jeep anyways.

I decided that I would drill two drainage holes in the front and back corner of each slider. The back side lip will allow water to drain out, but if the water is in the outer edge, this will allow the sliders to drain and not develop problems with rust and corrosion.

Here is a pic of one of the small holes:


I also test fitted the sliders before the final paint. They fit perfectly, and stayed in place without any bolts. It grabs from underneath, and rests on top under the doors. They will be perfect, I will just have to trim the rear fender flare a bit on the bottom edge so that it doesn't contact the mounting hardware.

 

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Did u notice your doors are harder to shut? My doors would hit the screw heads so I had to dremil little indents in the door so there is no interference.. It's very minor tho...
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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Discussion Starter #33
Yeah, I noticed that on the test fit. I pulled them back off for now until the paint is finalized, and thought that might be the case. Good to know, I will have the dremel handy.
 

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also after having them on for about 2-3 days i re-snugg'd the screws and it seemed to tighten them down good..
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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Discussion Starter #35
Thanks for the tip. Did you use any thread lock? Emil gave me some with the bolts and recommended I apply it to all the slider bolts.
 

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Ya he gave me stuff too.. I didn't use it tho. This was my reasoning. The sliders stay on by themselves, like u stated before. And if I ever needed to take them off I didn't wanna fight and strip screw heads and strip out the screw holes.. U have to be careful even screwing the self tapping screws into the sheet metal, or the sheet metal will strip out. I think I spun one or two. Even with my drill turned all the way down.. And I have years of experiance with sheet metal work in the HVAC industry.
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
k-I think I will zip them in, and do the final tightening all by hand.


Well, I have decided what I am going to do with the bumper...I will add five 2 1/2 inch holes for more airflow. It will also give it a cool look. To minimize weekening the structure, I will space them further apart and not worry about matching them to the grill sections above. I need to pick up the correct sized hole saw tomorrow, but I drew it up to make sure the proportions looked right.. This is the surface that slopes down towards the lower radiator support:


Here is a photoshop edit of the look I am going for. The holes will be a bit smaller, and spaced further apart than this pic...but it gives you an idea of what I am going for.
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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Discussion Starter #38
The holes are cut, I like the look. I decided that 2 1/2 inches was large enough to look good, but small enough to not weaken the structural integrity too much.

Here are all 5 holes cut:

And installed again:
 

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Looks good! :thumbsup:

I have the pre cut slots

 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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Discussion Starter #40
Your bumper looks very clean in this pic...It has met up with a rock or two since then I take it.
 
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