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Committed to cutting out the extra length of the loom! In for a penny, in for a pound. The left over coils of wires are the airbag sensors and curtain airbags.


I also ran the loom on the other side of the tunnel to keep some separation just in case it affects the EMI. Now to tidy up all the airbag sensor wiring.


Did some research and the airbag module looks for a resistance to see if the airbags are plugged in or not. This won't stop the Jeep from running, just set off the dash light and a DTC (Data Trouble Code). I need to measure the resistance of the different types of airbags it has in case there is a difference between them. Steering, passenger dash, and two curtain airbags. Later models you need to measure the seat belt pretensioners as well.


I have dual stage bags so have to measure both ports. There is a shorting bar that connects both pins as soon as you unplug it. So you have to isolate the bar to get the correct resistance reading. I'm just using the end of a nylon zip tie. You can just make out the copper bar at the bottom of the yellow port. Spring loaded fingers is what they are like.


I must admit I was a bit nervous putting the meter probes on the pins having heard rumours of any electrical current setting them off. But saw an airbag company video doing their testing this way so felt better about doing it. This is where I learnt how to check them as well. Both stages showed 2.1 Ohms resistance.


The passenger bag even had the plug with the same shorting bar. So did the same trick for both stages. 2.1 Ohms as did the curtain airbags.


So I shortened all the coils of wire for the sensors and curtain airbags. I bolted the sensors together. I also measured the resistance of the length of wire I cut out and it came to 0.3 Ohms. So the resistance valve I will use in the end of the shortened curtain airbag loom plugs will be 2.4 ohms. I did learn that they have a tolerance of 0.3 Ohms up or down to account for wire length and contact differences etc. I'd rather add the higher value to get it as close as possible to start with. Time will tell as I don't have them yet to try.


I have tucked the sensors under the other loom and on top of the padded isolation, as I don't want them bouncing around.


Just when you think you have done most of your looms, the headliner has a big one too! Looked a bit much for just the map and courtesy lights, turns out yet another module up there for the cabin temperature and compass receiver. Think there was an optional DVD player there too? Loom is all sorted and now installed in the Willys.


And look what happened. I nervously connected the battery and turned the ignition fob, wireless ignition in these, and the dash lit up. Accidently turned too far and it tried to start as well! No fuel in the tank though. Happy days.
 

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Marcus, I feel the pain of the wiring chop. Years ago I cut down a simpler 1994 Ford Explorer harness to fit in a 1990 Ford Ranger. But I also feel the elation of the thing working right with the first twist of the key!!! Congrats!
 

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My resistors for the airbags came in. Got 10 packs of three different values in case I need to increase them a bit.


Just folded the legs in half and then they were a good fit for the sockets. Tried to see if the airbags light went out and.......it stayed on. So I plugged in all my actual airbags in and tried them without the resistors and it did the same thing. The seat plugs are also wired into the airbag module to detect, and some models, weigh the occupants. Maybe because they are not installed it is doing it? Will have to wait for another time.


Decided to fit a CJ7 Jeep antenna as the donor one was in the rear quarter glass window. Cut a backing plate for the mount out of some scrap stainless steel.


Plug welded the stainless backing plate in so there wont be any flexing of the cowl once the antenna is installed.


As the cowl is angled, I made a new 3* wedge gasket out of some high density plastic. Just slowly whittled it down on the linisher.


I put it on the drivers side as less likely to get trees striking it that way.


Now the antenna is perfectly vertical from every angle.


I knew the wiper sweep would be too short when I ordered the wiper motor as it came with a 110* drive gear. This is where it stops if started from perfectly inline with the bottom of the screen.


I measured how much the drive rack sticks out in this position. 51mm or 2".


With the rack disconnected from the drive gear I could move it to where I would prefer it to stop. This was a total of 125* of sweep.


Now the rack sticks out 56mm or 2-5/32"


Now you can just go out and buy a 125* drive gear and swap it in as they come in 5* increments from 90*-130* for the 14w motor. 14w WIPER Drive Gear from 90 degrees to 130 - Classic &AMP Vintage Car Parts from SVC - The Best Prices


But to save some money, and a lot of time waiting for a gear to come from the UK to Australia during the COVID-19 pandemic, plus I like to do things myself, I thought I would move the pivot point instead. Now I need a total of 5mm-3/16" of extra movement of the drive rack. So that means only having to move the pivot half of that as you gain movement at each end of the stroke. I thought it was easier to cut a piece of the plate out with the pivot point and reweld it further out. I also moved it to the other side of the plate as it worked out better getting an extra half turn on to my donor wiper motor shaft adaption. No need to do this with a standard 14w motor setup.


Placed some copped plate under it and filled in the gaps with weld.


Cleaned up the welds and took away the excess radius around the pivot point.


All back in place with the extra sweep I wanted.


Just before going into lockdown for the COVID-19, I was able to pickup my rechromed pieces.


I finally got to put in my emblem that I bought 10 years ago! Bought it directly from the maker back then, but now are sold through Willys suppliers. Willys Overland Center Glue In Emblem, 1953-1963 Station Wagon | Jeepster Man Inc


A few more pieces done.
 
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