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Spare Willys bonnet was getting in the way and finally had everything I needed to use it for an awning over the garage side door. With winter here it will stop the rain from blowing in.

The local powder coaters are closing down and I happen to ask if he had any old headers for a project I had planned. He gave me these for free as someone had cut off one of the primaries. I had a few sets of 80 series Land Cruiser ARB bullbar tubes under the house that I thought I could make a replacement for it.


The new primary I made is on the left and think it blends in well enough. I also cut off all threaded bosses and welded up the holes that were for the water cooling as these were from a drag boat. Turns out a Dodge R5P7 NASCAR engine powered one! So still fits the theme of 'keeping it in the Mopar family'. :)


I made these mounting flanges up that block off the tubes to stop spiders, wasps, hornets etc making a home in them. I welded in a nut where the pipes merge to bolt through the wall of the garage.


Been knocking all the dents out of it even though it was actually straight on top to begin with! But the dents that had been filled in times past showed up underneath, so couldn't live with that. This was the best bonnet of the three that I had from the Willys Trucks and rust free too, except for some surface rust where the factory hadn't painted above the braces. Did a mockup and like what I see. Was very tempted to do a 'ratrod' or 'patina' look and call it done.


Got the dents out and have it in primer. Original plan was to go gray to match the existing roofing, but looks a bit top heavy. So will go with the cream the the bonnet was anyway.
 

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Even with the sun out, we were only getting up to minimum spraying temperature. So lamps from the front and a blow heater from behind to get the steel warm enough. Paint warmed in hot water as well.


I reinforced the garage wall with leftover hat channel from when I built the garage originally. Above the door will have a pulling force and the end of headers have a compressive force.


The bonnet itself bolted to a set of angle brackets through the original hinge mounts. Only the block off/mounting brackets for the headers were added which act as bracing. The bonnet is still stock except I removed the safety latch and spring. Even the original ornament is back in position.


To keep the door from swinging around in the breeze, I have just used a simple pad bolt. There is a clear stick on bumper on the header tube as well as one behind the pad bolt on the flange.


All finished up and pleased about how it turned out. Been planning it for nearly 10 years, but waited until I knew I didn't mess up welding the wider bonnet together on the Willys first, and then to get some suitable headers that were cheap enough. Was worth the wait as these were free!


In the end the only thing I paid for was the paint. Might just be able to make out the Willys 'looking on' in the background.
 

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I been trying different things like baby oil and trim restores etc. to keep where I have removed all the plastic protrusions the same as the surrounding areas. Like the first runner which has never been touched. But after awhile they all fade again.


After watching many youtube videos and reading forum posts on it with people using everything from peanut butter to heat guns, nothing lasts for long or it makes them brittle. I saw good reports though from an Australian product that is actually a die like printers ink that I will give a go.


Pretty clear to see that I have done the first two runners. You use only a few drops to load the foam brush each time.


Done them all now and you have to leave it for 24 hours while it dries and you must not allow it to get wet.


Was pretty cold so was still a bit left wet the next day so rubbed it with a cloth to remove the excess which dulled it down back to a stock look. Looks patchy in the photo but that is just from the lighting. I also used it on my Jeep which had some graying plastic and works really well there just like the video. Seems better on the textured surfaces. I'll report back over time to see how it holds up.
 

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I was was very fortunate that I was given a set of stock fuel rails from a 6.1 SRT HEMI engine as they had changed them for a billet pair from a fellow Ozrodder member Choco. I did a trial fit and the only thing I needed to do was alter the bend an the end of left one in the picture. It was at 90* like the other side originally. Just placed it in a vice with soft jaws and carefully straighted out the bend as shown.


They didn't come with the crossover fuel line so I cut mine off just each side of the barb. Even after softening it carefully with a heat gun, I couldn't pull it off the old rails. But my line was longer than I needed anyway so no problem. The line is nylon inside with a rubber feeling coating. I had to put the ends in a jug with the water boiling and quickly push it onto the barb that I had lubed with a bit of rubber grease. Held the rail in the vice so I could use both hands to force it on all the way. I added some single ear stainless hose clamps as well even though the factory didn't have them originally.


Here you can see why I had to bend the end a bit so the line can pass by the end of the intake runner.


The other side was fine and cleared. I had to put the whole line back into the boiling water to get it the flow around back of the intake as it is very stiff cold.


So no crossover line anymore. I also got my coil covers back from the powder coaters and had them done in a Mystic Silver Hammer Tone. I didn't want to look like I was pretending to have an early HEMI, so this gives it a modern twist and has both the silver and black colours they came in.


The hammer tone also hides the rust pitting that was left too and this colour choice allows me to leave the intake unpainted as well. Hence why the recent effort into making them look alright without paint. The chrome rails are subtle enough not to be in your face and fit with the stainless acorn nuts and screws that hold the covers in place.
 

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Want to cover what is left after I plastic welded the fan/radiator support together. This was damaged in the accident that wrote off the donor Grand Cherokee. Be good to rid the area of some more plastic as well.


Found some old tin that will be good enough for the job. I mainly free handed a 'W' in the same style as the one embossed into the factory tailgate.


Using the art dies that came with this Eastwood roller. Strangely they are slightly too narrow so that the end bolts don't have pressure on them. Only then relying on the grub screw which I don't like. I found the bosses from old 5" and 9" cutoff and grinding wheels have the right diameter to make good spacers.


I was going to add the 'O' behind the 'W' as well but quite like the simplicity of this. I didn't have a bead die small enough for the bead lines each side, so used the art dies for them as well. You just have to turn the piece around and run back over itself again to do the other side of the forming the bead. I also put a joggle in along one edge so some pinch rubber sat closer to flush and stiffened up the edge as well.


As I didn't do any pre-stretching, I had to do it post rolling. It is too hard to judge the perfect amount of stretch you need anyway before hand. I hammered each side of the bead work as well as from the other side using a bolster to get the stretch it needs to have it all sitting flat and without any twisting.


Just hammered the screw driver to stretch around the 'W' and round the ends of the beads etc.


Think it looks better than the damaged plastic and adds a little styling touch while tidying up the area.


Not sure if I will have it painted satin black like the rest of the engine bay, from the pinch weld down on the firewall, or do it body colour? But for now at least, everything is pretty much done in the engine bay as everything has been wired and plumbed too, as far as I know.
 

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Been looking at what mirrors to run that will be functional as well rather than just look cool. So that ruled out your peep mirrors as too small and not stable enough once on an arm long enough to see past back of the cab which is wider than the front. So settled on the good old West Coast Jr. mirrors that I got off Amazon, but are sold through Summit Racing, JEGS and eBay etc as well. K-Source H3541.


They come with a push in plug and galvanized self tapping screws to attach them which you can see in the picture. I decided to plug weld some flat steel bar, a bit larger than the mirror arm mounting surface, under the door skin and drill and tap them for some stainless button head screws.


I also replaced the galvanized arm bolts with stainless button heads as well.


The top of the door had some more flat welded in and tapped. I cut the mounting screws so they would be flush with the back of the flat bar. I was worried the depth of the supplied plugs and screws might hit the door frame.


These are fully adjustable as the arms can slide in and out of the mirror head as well as the door arms. The flange nut compresses a rubber like sleeve that slides over the tubing. I pushed the lower door arm in as far as it would go as well as into the top of the mirror to get it to sit as high as possible. Then adjusted the top door arm until the mirror was exactly vertical and the lower arm into the mirror until the arms were dead level.


The arm ends are hinged which works well as the cab tapers inwards a lot on these Willys Trucks.


The stainless screws look much better than what was supplied. I mounted it so the bracket was inline with the back of the forward door frame.


They are very stable and give a great view rearwards which will be needed as will be doing a lot of towing with my offroad camper trailer. It also pays to check to make sure the mirror glass is well seated as there were reports of them falling out even while still in the box. Mine look very secure so maybe they have responded to the complaints.


We have ears! Sorry but hard to see them with so much going on in the background!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,472 (Edited)
Just still doing little jobs before I get into the next part of the build.


I will be running the donor steering wheel, along with the rest of the interior, as it has all the stereo, satnav, information screen and cruise controls etc on it. Never been keen on the amount of beige on the Limited's steering wheel though.


Thought first to just dye the non-leather parts to match the dark slate colour that the top of the dash is etc. You can see a piece of it on the left spoke.


In the end I just went all satin black instead to match the top of the steering wheel. The beige was also really hard to clean as showed up everything, so might as well get rid of it all. I could have gone all dark slate grey too like my 2010 Jeep KK Cherokee, but went the black like some of the SRT versions. Black supposed to be slimming right!


Another thing that has always annoyed me was the exposed fan to steering box lines and hoses. I thought about shortening them but noticed it was on the Jeeps with the hydraulic fans as a way to isolate and vibration being transferred to the steering box. Not for cooling as one would think as it already has a separate cooler and would have been all done in hard line at the very least if so. Even though this is all the same as stock, having a shorter bumper than the donor makes it more obvious and vulnerable when off-roading.


I still had the damaged fuel tank skid plate where they had used a fork lift at the auction yard to move the Jeep around. Thought I could straighten what I need and make the guard from this.


I just used one section from it and flipped half of it over to make it long enough. Thought with the pressings like this it looked more 2008 OEM which the rest of the drivetrain is from.


Think that offers some good protection and looks better too. I left to area above the cross-member open as it is behind the bumper and want the airflow over the engine sump.
 

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This project is so unbelievably cool! So what is your ultimate tore size plan? I'm sorry if you started that earlier, I haven't read all the posts haha.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

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This project is so unbelievably cool! So what is your ultimate tore size plan? I'm sorry if you started that earlier, I haven't read all the posts haha.

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Thanks mate. :)
If you mean tyre size, what is now on there is what I will be running. 265/70R17.
 

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Thanks mate. :)
If you mean tyre size, what is now on there is what I will be running. 265/70R17.
Haha that's the same TYRE I run on my WJ ;)

I wouldn't mind stopping up to 285s but I'll have to get more aggressive with my fender modifications.

I love how your project is coming along. Those old pickups were so iconic. It will turn a lot of heads

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