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I tried the gravel tray at many different heights until I was happy. This is the position I have decided on. It is sitting 19mm-3/4" higher in front of the grille than before, but still leaving more distance from the bottom of the slots to tray.


Bumper back on to finally see if it was worth it or not. The distance from the slots to the top of the tray is now half that of slots to the top of the grille. This is the same proportions as the stock 48 flat nose grille which is different to the 58 pointy nose grille.


Ok, just put together a before and after. About 20 shots it took to get it as close as I could, even brought the dog in! So left the overall height of the grille the same, but shortened the slots by 50mm-2". Then raised the stone tray 19mm-3/4". Also the grille mesh has been added which helps more in the flesh than it does in these photos. I think it doesn't need the horizontal grilles bars to be added as well anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,448

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This is my actual license plate that I will be running on the Willys. I ordered these 2 days after I won the auction to buy the first Willys Truck back in 2007! Was a couple of months before I even got to see the Truck in the flesh for the first time, and 12 months before I brought it home. I wanted WILLYS but that was already taken, so we decided on WLLYS as was the closest. WILYS was also available, but thought people might think it was someone's name. I'd rather run no front plate but unfortunately have to. Which position do people prefer as we cannot decide?
 

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above and off set so it can not hide the grill :)
Not to sure about it being underneath the bumper :unsure:
Are you allowed to mount it on the bumper Marcus ?
 

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Just wondered if the plate would fit between an outer and inner sensor Marcus :)
It is a hard decision you are going to have to make in placing it :)
 

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Well you can see the Ankor wax is doing a great job! As winter has started here, the cold nights with no wind causes condensation to drip off where the clear roofing is.


Going to tackle fixing the rust pitting. The rust has already been treated but has turned black from the lanolin oil mixed with dust over the years. I can't just grind this down as the pitting is deeper than it looks and has it on the top side near the same spot too!


Being a Wagon bumper, this has rusted where the corner piece bolts on over the top of this.


I will fix every gouge and stone chip on the whole bar.


I'm using my TIG for all this as I want to keep it soft so it doesn't stay proud from being hard when I get down to fine sanding and polishing. Just using some 1.2mm mig wire as the TIG filler, or even a coat hanger for the bigger deeper pits!


After filling every rust pit I carefully ground and sanded the welds smooth keeping the original bumper thickness. Looks fine but can see the profile has flattened from the welding heat. The old DD hammer on the bench will be used to stretch the area back out again.


Used a profile gauge to make sure the shape was back again and then carefully filed just enough to show the low spots that you can see. These were then hammered up until all gone rather than just keep filing.


Where I had filled the rust pitting on the flanges, I used the long board sander to show any low spots. Can see one of the dull spots above the marker. I mark the spot so when I flip it over I know exactly where to hit the dent up.


Using a 7" disc sander and going through the grades I have removed most of the chrome but there is still a lot of nickel left. Even though it was OEM, there was no copper under that.


Can see the profile is much rounder in the welded area now, like the rest of the bar, than before the stretching was done. This is far enough now to show me I have hammered out all the dents and filled the chips and scratch damage gathered in the last 70 years! The big dents I hammered out already a number of years ago.


I drilled out the original mounting holes to take the front parking sensors. I removed the holders from the trashed donor bumper 10 years ago. This one was is damaged though so wouldn't mind some more if anyone has a 2005-2010 Grand Cherokee with a damaged bumper. I can not find anywhere that sell the holders separately for the front of the Jeep. To the left of the sensor is where I repaired the rust damage and has come up fairly well.


The rear sensors are chrome so will use those on the front bumper so it blends in better. Just need to get a couple more as there are only 4 sensors on the back and 6 on the front.


Has always annoyed me that the 'I' wasn't dotted!


So I put some conveyor rubber over the top of a matching crown stake and hammered the punch into the surface. I then hammered around the dot using the drilled rod from the back so only the dot was sunk in. Hammering the punch directly over the drilled rod from the start would have been better, but keeping it balanced in the right spot was too hard to do on my own.


Whipped up a licence plate holder out of some 3mm-1/8" plate and bent the tab in my press.


The thickness allowed me to drill and tap the holes for the button head retaining screws which were sanded flush at the back. The rear plate I had ordered full size.


I decided on fitting it in the factory drivers side position. Held in place with some Holden HQ bumper bar bolts.


I'm wondering if to buy some stainless plate and remake it. Worried stones coming off the tyres will chip it badly.


Bumper now finished and have just dropped it off at the chromers. They said all my repairs and preparation means no extra cost to get the chroming redone.
 
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