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Discussion Starter #1,401 (Edited)

I need to have somewhere to put some recovery hooks and thought using the mounting bolt dimples could work once modified.


To get the hooks to sit completely level I had a steel block clamped underneath right on the edge of where I wanted the crease to form. Then hammered down with the brick bolster.


Directly under the tray will be a heavy bracket going back to the frame and also for mounting the bumper too.


Next I finished off making the tray wider to match the grille. Normally I would have added a single wider piece at the V to flat transition, but knew it would have moved the place I wanted the tow hooks to line up with the bracket. So added a strip on the outside of the dimple area. This was welded with the MIG in one pass but manually pulsing the trigger, never allowing the orange colour to disappear from the weld before adding more.


I always check the penetration on the back to see if any spots need to be added to before any grinding has taken place. This way you have more weld thickness on the front side to protect against a blowout. Can see where it was colder at the start of the weld and I had to add some. If you do the slow spaced tack technique you are facing this along the whole weld. I never have my welds crack when planishing as I believe this technique largely removes the problem of the MIG where rapid heating from cold causes brittleness.


For the first time I thought I would try the automatic pulse, or spot timer, on my MIG to see how that would compare. I just held the trigger and had the timer set to 0.5 second intervals.


Full penetration but way too much weld even though it was the identical setting to the last weld where I did it manually. Good news that it didn't blow through anywhere though. I will try a lower setting next time. Steel is 1.2mm or 18 gauge.


Width now correct across the grille.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,403

Because the tray is now wider, the curve doesn't match the stock width bumper, especially as the bumper curve tightens towards the ends. I have notched out the flange back to the new bend line.


I start bending the flange flat using the mallet and then a panel hammer.


I also hammer from the back hitting directly on the old bend line to force the ridge on the opposite side up into the crease.


Using nothing more than an old wood splitter head I turned into a stake, I slowly bend the flange along the new line. Even though I cannot see where it is once I move away from the edge, I watch the reflection which shows exactly where it is bending. Doing light taps to start with means it is easy to adjust where it is bending.


Even bending over a wide straight edge, I can still produce a shallow curve.


Previous tension in the panel and the tighter curve towards the end, has made it bend. Some of this will straighten once I cut the excess material away using a cutoff wheel due to its heat shrinking it.


Once I cut the flange to an even width again, I used a chaser to hammer along the bend line to crisp up the fold. This also causes some stretching to further straighten the flange. Using a shrinker on the edge rather than the fold line will also straighten it. For straightening this flange, stretching at the fold does the same thing as shrinking along the edge.


Overall the tray is narrower than stock by 20mm-3/4" to compensate for the extra depth of the grille and width of the tray.


Mockup with the hooks in place in front of the grille.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,405

Now to make some brackets to support the tray, recovery hooks and bumper. I bought some 100x50mm-4"x2" C channel. I prefer C channel over U channel as the flanges are parallel rather than tapered. I couldn't have any bolts through it without making a levelling wedge first with U channel.


I could not buy angle in the size I wanted and got the bonus of thicker flanges too. The very ends have been tapered to 6* to match the bumper flange angles as they will be bolted through them. I left the flange as long as I could to give lateral support from any off centre pulling on the hooks.


Back in 2012, before boxing the chassis, I had welded some 10mm-3/8" thick bar in place ready to accept drilling and tapping of the bumper brackets! There is a total of three M12 10.9 bolts holding each bracket onto the chassis.


As I have made the tray level so the hooks are not on a downward 6* angle, I needed to bend down the tray edge where it tucks under the bumper flange. After shrinking the tray flanges at each end, I hammered with the bolster along the line with the tray upside down and over the rubber mat.


All bolted in place for the first time.


Technically the bumper is 40mm-1.5" further forward than stock as that is how much I moved the grille forward. But I think it looks just right at that distance.


Bumper is just clamped in place at the moment and still have to drill and bolt it on.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,406

I don't think I like the way it is looking! The grille slots maybe too tall and Kenworth Truck like? Looks a little vacant or naked?


Even one doesn't help even once extended to across all slots like stock.


Three is what came on my 58 donor Willys. Obviously the top bar sits a bit higher than this.


Five is what the 52 grille that makes up part of the panels had. Maybe too busy?


Maybe I should be different and do four which none of the models had? It is Lisa's favorite and don't mind it myself. All bars would be made to cover all the grille slots and the spacing would end up slightly wider once the top is in its correct position. Thoughts?

Or I am now thinking of cutting up the grille and reducing the height of the slots back to stock height and adding the 50mm-2" instead below the slots so it matches the distance between the slots and the top of the grille!
 

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I don't think I like the way it is looking! The grille slots maybe too tall and Kenworth Truck like? Looks a little vacant or naked?

Back away from the grill Marcus and no one has to get hurt!!

No seriously, back way back away from the truck and look at it. I really think you are to close to it and that's why you think it is to tall. It looks really good where I sit.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,409
Back away from the grill Marcus and no one has to get hurt!!

No seriously, back way back away from the truck and look at it. I really think you are to close to it and that's why you think it is to tall. It looks really good where I sit.
Ha ha, I can't get any further back as was already sitting on the stairs outside the workshop just to take these shots! :D
Too late anyway as the grille has already been cut up.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,413
I have been holding off posting the finished grille until the mesh I ordered a few weeks ago arrives and I can fit it all back together.

One of the the things I am looking at in the meantime it to cover up the ugly coils and harness.


5 years ago I bought a pair of original early HEMI covers as thought they would make cool coil covers. Would break the 2008 OEM theme I have been doing under the bonnet now though, except for the WWII horn. Would it clash too much or could the mix work? It would cover all the existing valve covers as well as the coil and injector wiring as I moved all that already for these.


If I wanted to keep the OEM theme going I could fit some covers like these. Might try and build them though as they are rather pricey.

So old or new?
 

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Discussion Starter #1,417

5 Years ago I bought these old HEMI valve covers that were going cheap due to the damage to one of them. Looks like some one pieced it with an axe!


If you look under the ruler were the split is, you can see the extent of the damage.


Also the damage along the edge has pulled the top down.


Just showing the repairs I did 5 years ago. I first roughed it out over a piece of conveyor belt so not to stretch it further. Just using a rounded brickies bolster.


The split area is already looking much better.


I used a door skinning hammer to further improve this area. The angled head allowed me to hit still with a full swing.


I also did some fine work over the edge of the railroad track.


As well as my home made T stake.


Nice and straight again along this edge where the split is.


Top has come up well too and no grinding or sanding has been done yet, just wire wheeled. The split will be welded up and it is done.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,418
Biting the bullet and try fitting the HEMI covers.


When I thought of using the old HEMI covers to cover the coils in 2015, I had never seen anyone do it before, so had no idea if it could be done. Try as I may I could not find any dimensions of the valve covers to see if possible or not. So I'm putting up mine now in case there is ever anyone else looking to use these covers for something in the future. They are 522mm-20.55" long outside of the flanges.


235mm-9.25" wide on the outside. Flanges are 13mm-1/2" wide each side.


To see if they would fit I made up a profile piece from some scrap stainless steel.


They fit best when positioned like this along the bottom and can go over the protruding studs.


At the top I hope to use the bolts that hold the fuel rail in place.


Can see how they will cover the coil packs, harness and the injectors as well just nicely.


I had to do some trimming at the back corner of the cover as the steering column boot was in the way. LHD's would have it easier as not only is the head further away on the other side from the firewall, but the 25mm-1" factory engine offset gives more room as well! The centre stud has plenty of room to fit a nut but the other two are too tight if left like this.


Some simple tags welded to the cover flange to sit under the fuel rail bolts should solve the fixing at the top.


With the engine offset to this side it is too tight under the one of the tower brace legs. Will have to add a scallop for that on this side only and the two new lower nut positions as well on both. One of the air-conditioning pipes next to the brake booster clears, but not by enough to leave as is so will move it further back.


I think it looks really good though and even better once toned down with some original black wrinkle paint these had.
 
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