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looks good Marcus :)
Much prefer the look of the bed without the additional upper uprights :)
is their any way to extend the lower sides up higher for the fridge/top problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #1,322
looks good Marcus :)
Much prefer the look of the bed without the additional upper uprights :)
is their any way to extend the lower sides up higher for the fridge/top problem?
Nothing at all having more vertical before the angled out sides, but you end up at the same overall height in profile to the top of the ribs or higher to fit the fridge. Main reason is the 4" higher floor height due to the higher chassis step up. Not that you could fit it in stock form either mind you.
 

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Well I tried some ideas given to me and used photopaint to see what it looks like. So I have the rear guard blend into the step like it does on the front and added a rear one as well. Here the front part is level with the bottom of the cab and the rear under the frame skirt I had before.


I left the rear as is and ran the front one under the cab.
 

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Well, the exhaust cannot run out the middle as per the factory centre outlets of the SRT model that the system was made for. I still had the factory single stainless system which is the same diameter, 70mm-2.75", as just one of the new pipes.


Re-routing the right side was easy as I only had to cut and flip the exhaust over. I used the left side dogleg instead as it reached over further to where I wanted it.


It looks odd sitting out that far at the moment, but the chassis had been narrowed to fit the donor suspension in the right place. The bed will actually be wider than stock and cover the rear muffler and will be behind the frame skirts.


So with the muffler on the left placed to match the other side, I just have to get it across. First have to clear the pinion flange, top of the diff and sway bar at full suspension compression. Then turn before hitting the left side upper control arm bracket, under the cross member before going through a hole in the next, miss the shock absorber and then line up with the back of the muffler!


I cut the exhaust off just before the last bend and also found a section from the original system that lines up with a hole in the panhard bar support cross member and the muffler. Just have these bends left to complete the system.


Using one of the bends from the right side dogleg and the rest of the original system gets me pretty close. I am just using hose clamps to keep things in place while mocking up.


I am just going to fuse weld the system together using the tig. 1.6mm-16 gauge lanthanated tungsten to match the same gauge tubing wall thickness.


I just draw a straight line using a ruler over the hose clamps before disassembly. Better than small marks as you can make sure the line is still straight after tacking in case it wasn't butted up square.


I have used a paint strip disc to clean the old stainless and also the welds. If you don't clean the welds, either mechanically or with acid to pacify them, it will rust there.


Just had to meet the two sections together between the cross members. Needed a slight bend. I measured the furthest and narrowest side of the gap and found a bend that would match it. I used hose clamps as a guide to draw my cut lines around making sure they match the smallest and largest measurements.


The bend lined up first go using this method so will tack it in place in situ to make sure it all lines up after welding.


Have the two hangers in place with two more to go after the mufflers. It worked out better than I expected actually as was going to buy new bends, but actually had to use every little factory bend to clear everything and was the only routing that I could have taken. From this view it looks like I could have just taken a 90* bend after the cross member and then run in front of the tyre before going down the the muffler on the other side. But there just isn't the room as the diff would have hit it at full compression and the panhard cross member is deep on the left side.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,327 (Edited)
Back from 5 weeks country and island hopping around the Mediterranean Sea. Ticked of bucket list items like diving inside a ship wreck off the coast of Cyprus, to climbing up and exploring the ancient ruins of Masada in Israel!


Now to fit up the resonators. They had 3" S shaped bends welded on to get the tips down and closer together. I didn't need that so cut them, the tips and the hangers off. I had some 3" stainless steel tubing left over from the nudge bar from my other Jeep. I had used the rest of its bends to make a new tailpipe for it too!


When I cut the bends off I left the original factory mig welds in place. I have just sat the straight piece of tubing straight on top, so not welded yet in this shot.


To weld the new tailpipes on I used the tig to heat the mig weld and wash over the join. The side is done and you might be able to make out the join still on the untouched weld across the top in front of the mig weld.


Tigged the join all the way around.


Hit it with a stainless steel hand brush to stop it oxidising.


Both done. I also welded up the drain hole so I could rotate the seam to the top and re-drilled the hole at the bottom.


Using the original hanger hardware and just folded up a bracket which I drilled for the isolator posts and then tigged them into place.


Bracket welded on and all the weight is now on the hangers only. The bed floor is wider than the rails and will cover the exhaust and the frame skirts will hide them from the side.


The tips are just sitting there as I don't know exactly how long I need the tailpipe to be yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,330
Thanks guys. :)
Sorry but a bit picture heavy!

I am making a piece to fit between the two suspension tower braces to stiffen them up some more. I am just using some 2mm-14g cold rolled galvanised steel I had which is the thickest the dimple dies can take. You see the scrap test piece to workout the correct depth I needed to achieve.


The ends will also be flared. I broke the fold line using the tipping die on my bead roller. Being cold rolled and so thick I only could go this far.


Tipped it the rest of the way with a modified high crown hammer over a stake dolly I had made years ago for this sort of work.


I machined a step into the end of the male die to match the smaller hole I am using to get extra flare depth. The female die was lined up with a previously marked line as the smaller hole doesn't allow the normal alignment.


Both pieces ready for assembly.


I have them just sitting on top of each other to make sure the gap between them is the same as the centre of the brace where they will be fitted.


Welded the two halves together and ground the welds smooth. Used a die grinder and then hand filed them with a half moon file before using a flap wheel in a drill.


Can see the penetration coming through to the inside.


Ready to fit.


I welded as much as I could in situ to keep correct alignment. For some practice on thicker metal I just used the tig without a filler rod to fuse the join.


On the backside I thought I would try using some 1.2mm, (0.45), mig wire as a filler. Went a lot quicker and easier.


I used the lay wire technique where you leave the wire in the join and run over it with the torch rather than feeding the wire in. Gives good consistency. Remember to have your filler wire and torch at 90* to each other.


I had also lowered the brace some more as I am not going to be running the stock engine cover. Most likely none at all.


It made a lot of difference to the overall stiffness as had to use the press to make some adjustments to get it to sit on perfectly. Before I could just force some movement by hand.
 

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Not much was picture worthy this week so will only show a little bit of what was done to save boredom.


I have always planned more bracing of the suspension tower to frame connection. I waited until I made sure I had the clearance needed first. I want to plate down to the inside of the frame. Not going to be that simple as the tower is at a different angle to the inside edge of the frame which also starts to curve at the back edge. The gap at the top front is how much the plate has to twist to fit.


I picked these cast forms up from a military collector I bought my trailer from. No idea what they were for but use them to shape steel over.


Using 4mm plate the same as the frame thickness. Being hot rolled as well makes it harder to shape


It now follows both the frame edge and the suspension tower.


I drilled three holes like the tower brace above the engine. I left the ends open so I can still run any wiring and pipe work through.


Should be all that is needed now to keep the towers from flexing.


Took the cab off to weld the body mounts in place.
 

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The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry.


Suffering from the flow on effect of adding the spare tyre under the floor. Things I had planned to put there now have to find a new home. The charcoal canister on the donor went on the outside of the rail here. I was just going to swap it to the inside before the exhaust was run to this side to go around the spare.


I thought maybe here, but after taking out the rear springs to check clearance at full compression, it was not going to work.


Laying it on its side would work but would have to change the orientation of the vent control valve.


From the factory the vent control valve was like this. When the charcoal canister was laid over horizontally, like on a JK Jeep Wrangler, the valve was still positioned vertically.


Well, I saw that it had different clocking positions possible, so only had to refit it 90* differently to make it work.


But before I went any further, I thought where am I going to fit the battery which I had planned to be where the spare is now too? It was too close to the exhaust if I put it opposite the canister, so out came my lovely K member to make room for it!


Whipped up another less elaborate K member one bay further back


Can see where the term K member comes from. It works just as well back here as it will stop the chassis trying to turn into a parallelogram anywhere along the rails.


There was more room above the fuel tank here too as it drops down at the top. Plumbing worked out better here as was actually too close before. The small left over line connects to the fuel filler vent port and the vent control valve to a vent filter also mounted there. That won't be done until after the bed is made.


I have also run the fuel and vent lines which just clicked back into place without change. The brake lines were also run.


All lines were just clipped into the donor factory holders in the same positions along the frame too. No bending was even needed!
 

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It's been almost 6 months since I checked in. Good progress as usual. :) It's amazing to me how fast the summer went by. I linked your youtube channel. I'm looking forward to watching. :)
 

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It's been almost 6 months since I checked in. Good progress as usual. :) It's amazing to me how fast the summer went by. I linked your youtube channel. I'm looking forward to watching. :)
Thank for checking in again. I haven't done a video update in a while but not enough to report for one yet.

Great problem solving Marcus :)
I expect you will have a few more before you are finished ;)
I'm sure there will be. ;)
 
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