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Discussion Starter #1,281 (Edited)

The basic idea I have come up with to correct the awkward factory line along the top of the guard is starting with this. To run some 25mm-1" SHS under the flare part of the guard, (shown on top here), right to the firewall. Also to add a strengthening brace to support it as they are prone to tearing where they meet at the top.


The guards also tear around where it mounts to the firewall, so made a flange from some 3mm-1/8" plate to attach the frame to.


The top of the flare part is straight and flat for the most part until the grille where it slopes down. So curving the top of the frame to follow this.


Also had to make a notch at the same place to clear the top bolt of the grille. Cut what I needed out and then used a rounded cold chisel to bend it into place.


Can see how the top line follows the bonnet and the notch clears the top bolt hole at the grille.


You might remember how I wanted to correct the 25mm-1" wider the guards were at the front compared to the back before it curves down. This is how I am going to remedy it by moving the inner fold line over. Also gets rid on that joggle at the same time.


Flattened out the downward turned flange so I can use some of it where that joggle was.


Tipped the new fold 1" further in, but turned it upwards instead. This helps keep the water out of that seam and it can now be spot welded to the inner guard flange which sat up above the old seam. Makes for easier welding and adds more strength too.


Now the part that went down the side of the grille needs an inch taken out as well. Rather than use one of my french curves, I find a stainless steel ruler works well to get a nice curve.


I wanted to thin the width of this section anyway so works out well. Also easier to tip the outside flange rather than the much wider bolt flange where it attaches to the grille.


Extended the piece right to the bottom of the longer grille at the same time so the new flange is tipped as one.


Can compare one side to the other. Only a small change to narrow the guard to get it parallel to the centreline, plus narrowing and lengthening the side piece, but it all adds up. Has removed a lot of the 9" wider grille to give better proportions. Now to finish the rest of the guard off before moving onto the other side.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,284
Thanks guys. Not much to show this time.


One of the guard mounting nuts was partially stripped. So I drilled it out just big enough so a nut could be tapped into place.


To stop the thread from getting weld splatter onto it, I use a small piece of tubing to protect the thread of the bolt so they can't be welded to each other. Then weld around it, screw the bolt out and then cut the tube and the weld flush. Used copper here but even steel will work as just cutting straight through it after it is done.


I also noticed that the grille wasn't following the angle of the bonnet. It must have moved at some point and I didn't notice until now.


Each side of the grille it was level but the centre showed it was leaning back 8mm-5/16", the same it was off following the edge of the bonnet exactly.


As the top was already fully welded in I wanted to fix the problem another way. So tack welded in some joining links and simply tightened the turnbuckle to shorten the back distance, therefore pushing the centre forward.


A few adjustments for spring back and got it right on. :)


Can tell winter has started here as have to place the spray cans into hot water so it sprays correctly. Works a treat when the sun is not out to warm the cans up instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,286

Just showing how the top box section was bent due to welding in the angled brace. Look closely at the gap on the left side under the ruler.


As the weld cannot be stretched back out I simply use more weld opposite it to pull it back straight again. Done this for many years when welding brackets on to axle tubes etc. I ran two welds on top of each other, letting it cool in between, to pull it straight to add up to the welds that went across underneath as well. I keep the heat straightening welds on the edge only as welding across the box will just create a hollow.


So I have 3mm plate against the firewall spaced out with the same sheet metal thickness as the piece that will fill in this area. Then have the brace supporting the top box section so the outer guard does not take the weight.


This is the template I made for the other side and it fits here too, always a good sign.


From the other side this is the finished fill in piece wrapped around the firewall plate as well is the angled brace.


Also stepped in at the top to line up with the rest of the up turned flange of the guard.


Here it is in place before the inner guard goes back on.


Looks much better having the triangular piece inline with the bonnet edge rather than angled 10mm-3/8" in.


Other side


Now have a nice even gap along the top of the guard right to the firewall as well. I have also been adding a few millimetres of weld along the back bonnet edge in places to even that up some more.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,291
Tool update.

Wanted a set of portable shrinker/stretchers for a while for when the job is too big or you want to do it in situ for the best or quicker result. But they start around $700US which was more than I could justify and you have to keep switching the jaws between shrink and stretch. So waited for a bench mounted set to come on special with the EOFY sales and got a pair for only a 1/3rd of the cost!


I needed to make a set of handles to support the body of the shrinker/stretchers. I just cut some 1/4" thick flat and welded it to some old 3/4" water pipe a foot long to match the handles they come with


I used the flat under the body to keep the profile as minimal as possible so I can get into more places. I wanted to use counter sink bolts as well but didn't have any to match the 10mmx1.5 pitch threaded holes. Also notice that the pipe is hard against the back of the body to act as a brace so it doesn't bend the flat in use.


I was worried there wouldn't be enough leverage but it works well enough on 0.9mm-20g bonnet.


Thought I would show its uses. Notice the dip in the top of the guard. This often happens when using a tipping wheel as the fold line gets stretched


So to lift the dip you need to stretch the top half of the flange to match. You only stretch the top 25-50% of the flange, otherwise you are just lengthening the whole flange and not achieving anything. So don't use it like pictured!


Now with the thicker 1.2-18g steel I had to really muscle the levers and I could not get a feel for what was happening. So threaded the end of the lower one and added another foot to the length and made a new upper one. I have unscrewed the extension and used the original upper when working in tight areas, so it is good to be able to do that when needed.


Can see the guard is now perfectly flat until the far right where it starts to drop down to meet the grille.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,292 (Edited)

Big step in the build. Need to lift the cab off the trestles they have been tack welded too all this time. Just seeing where it balances.


Balance point lines up just behind the front seat mounting bosses.


Neighbours had thrown out their children's swing set, so cut that up to use. I have spread the load over all four seat mounts just to be sure.


I have added braces to the two mounts closest to the tunnel to stop the thin walled tubing bending forwards with the load.


Lifting up from floor height gives the possibility for lifting up over the engine if needed with ease. Also no strain on the roof supports like lifting from above. Also will use this once fully painted as no risk to the paint work.


Once off the trestles, I easily balanced the cab with one hand while moving them out of the way with the other. Then lowered it down to the cranes base with some timber on it. Could then just push it over to the corner of the workshop.


Look what is coming out of the garage! Been sitting in there since I finished it back in October 2013!


Only had it coated with lanolin and then old sheets over it. No plastic as that would cause a nice wet environment from condensation and I also had water occasionally flood in here too during bad storms!


To get to my workshop I actually have to take a trip down the road and then into the side street entrance. Neighbours helping by pushing it. I got the father to drive the Jeep after this shot as I had it attached to it to stop a runaway once we got around the corner.


Pretty tight in here! Even on my own I just dragged the rear end around on a trolley jack to save dropping it onto my wheel dollies.


Had no problem on my own lifting the cab onto the chassis using the crane. I have it sitting on some 12mm plastic spacers to give me the clearance I want under the floor supports. This will reduce a bit once I build the chassis to cab mounts and it rests on rubber mounts and then tightened down.


I had already one chassis mount made all those years ago in the center of the back wall. This is already bolted in with the rubber mount but not tightened down. That will happen after the rest are made so they are all at the same tension.


Engine to donor firewall distance is exactly the same as when mounted in the donor.


Was great to stand back and see what it looked like for the first time together.


Couldn't help but quickly throw on a guard!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,297

I have got the other guard on and hung the grille. As some have noticed, the front tower brace is not going to clear.


Angling down the front by nearly 2 degrees dropped the grille 50mm-1" and lost 14mm-9/16"of clearance over the front brace. So wouldn't have cleared anyway.


The rear is the factory placement and the top was angled downward to clear the donor bonnet. Can see placing another rear one on the front, by turning it backwards, made that angle worse.


With the front one off it actually clears due to the thickness of the leading edge of the bonnet over the grille.


Thought I might as well gain a bit more by leaning back the brace to make it parallel with the bonnet line.


I made a cut behind the some mounting holes, as I want to weld those up anyway along with two others, and pulled the brace back.


I then cut the front one off its mounting plates and turned it around. Then lowered it and lent it back until it was parallel with the rear one. The level is sitting at the same angle and height as the bonnet will be. Clears by 17mm-5/8".


I lowered the front brace 19mm-3/4" in total and spread it out so it sat in the same spot as before on the mounting plates. The front brace does help as I had 1mm of deflection in the towers from fully loaded to unloaded, with the weight of the suspension and wheels and tyres pulling down on them, with the rear one only fitted. Once I added the front one there was no defection at all. I may still add a brace under both of them and will link them also with a dimple holed sheet metal piece across the top.


We are assembled! I even got out the Willys stamped front bumper out to checkout the look. I will still run it under the grille even though the grille is 50mm-2" deeper than stock and also the front guard rake giving another 25mm-1". I will bolt it directly to the subframe.


I have raised the front 50mm-2" so the chassis is dead level so I can start building the frame mounts for the body. Looks alright at this height too! I will not be running these wheels or tyres! The tyres are 29.5" tall, (245/65R17), and will go to a 30.5", (245/70R17), or even a 31.5", (245/75R17). Should be alright still on gearing with the 3.73 ratios and the fact it will be around 500kgs lighter than the donor wagon without all the weight of the rear doors, hatch and all the carpet and insulation and such.


Wife was not as keen on the looks of the grille without any of the cross bars. They came with none on the 47-50 flat nose versions, or 3 or 5 bars depending on the year for the 50-65 ones. Maybe just one 'floating' bar in the middle will work? I don't want to cover the top and bottoms of the iconic grille slots.


This is the money shot for me. :)
 
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