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Needed to make a template of the bonnet profile where the back flange on the front support sits. I used a trick where you choose a washer that is slightly more that the biggest gap from its edge to the bottom of the hole . Then run the washer along with the pencil inside it to get your line.


As I had to start with a large washer, you can see it is not accurate on the tighter radius in the middle. So I just ran a much smaller washer after this right along the bottom edge to get it right.


I went hunting at the wreckers and found this neat latch and safety catch in one off a 240 Volvo. I cut out the support pieces as well in case I need them. They are very similar to universal ones you can get, but found the quality higher on these. Not sure if it is worth the cost of replating though.


Started with the centre section and decided to put a joggle in so it sits flat with the bonnet skin flange. I also put a dimpled hole in so I can access the stud for the bonnet ornament.


The factory support was not very stiff and the cause of the flutter these bonnets get at speed. That is why I believe you see so many with side latches added later. So I made it flat right across the centre to give greater depth in the flange. Also followed the profile of the bonnet to give more depth in the corners of the steps, rather than just cutting through at a 45 degree angle as the factory did. Also welded in pieces into the bonnet flange to make them the same width in the steps as they were cut right back to aid the pressing of the bonnet. But this also made it weaker in the corners.


I added the same sized dimpled holes as the rear support to tie in the theme. They are much smaller and stronger than the large cut outs of the original support as I don't need access for a spot welder. I will be doing plug welds instead in the holes left from drilling out the spot welds.


The latch will mount in the section in front of the dimpled holes.


The centre section came from a 1952 Willys Wagon that I got along with my 1958 Willys. The 58 and Wagon pieces were actually parts left from building another Willys Truck! I bought all the leftovers. ;) The Wagon has a different hood ornament that is bigger and goes down the centre rib. I designed the front support so that the rear flange ended up right under the mounting hole to further strengthen the skin to the support structure.


This is with the Wagon ornament in place. It used to cover the whole front of the centre section to the edge of the dog leg on each side.


This is one of the original Truck ornaments I have which are shorter and only have two points.


I like the Wagon one better as it helps the proportions as it finishes short about what the original Truck ones did.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,265
Looking really awesome, love reading and seeing your updates. Question, dont remember if you covered it. But how do you keep all that bare metal looking fresh? Do you keep a layer of light oil on it?

I'm in Michigan (USA) and bare metal tends to start getting rust on it quickly.
I coat everything with lanolin. It flash rusts otherwise on humid days.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Generic-Lanox-Mx4-Lanolin-Lubricant-5-Litre-Bottle-With-Spray-Applicator/183725965367?hash=item2ac6ebc037:g:goQAAOSw1AVcv7oz
This doesn't affect painting later on and I just wipe it off with a bit of acetone, thinners or even spray and wipe!

looks great Marcus :)
Thanks mate.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,266

Thought I would check for the first time how I am for clearance with the headlight buckets and radiator.


Looks like I knew what I was doing! :) This is why I didn't want to move the headlight across when I widened that area.


Just enough room between them to run a support through.


This shows how much I miss shutting the bonnet though as it hits the radiator filler neck and the power steering reservoir.


So why not improve function and form together! Always my goal. ;)


So I have added in 50mm/2" to the height of the grille. This helps as I can lower the radiator and still keep it within the frame or flange that runs along the bottom so the core sits up against the back of the grille. Also the top part of the grille wasn't letting any airflow through anyway and need that area for the lower part of the bonnet latch support. Win win!


Can really see the size difference, but think it disguises the extra 9" of width and the 2" of extra height only helps the proportions.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,269
Thanks guys. :)
Just a quick update.

Fitted up the new 50mm-2" longer grille today to check the clearance. I went more than I needed to increase the airflow and proportions of the grille. Have 20mm-3/4" of room above the radiator filler cap and the power steering reservoir now.


Got that truck look back again. :) The step doesn't look that bad actually, bit like the MB and CJ's had.


I will deal with the guards when I move the fronts in an inch each side. Want to change the shape of the part alongside the grille anyway.
 

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Fantastic!

I'm a total newbie here, but I just spent the last two hours tacking your progress from March of 2011. UNBELIEVABLE! You are making this creation your life's work. What a marvelous rig you are building, and what a wonder is your account of it, step by step. Do keep the updates coming!
 

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I'm a total newbie here, but I just spent the last two hours tacking your progress from March of 2011. UNBELIEVABLE! You are making this creation your life's work. What a marvelous rig you are building, and what a wonder is your account of it, step by step. Do keep the updates coming!
Many thanks mate. Been helpful for me to to document as I learn and do this so I can always go back and re-read anything I may have forgotten.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,272

For the latch I wanted to see what else I could use that was new and didn't need replating. Just doing an image search I came across this latch from a 1990's VW Polo and Jetta.


Very similar to the ones they sell for universal latches for hotrods etc, but $100 cheaper! This only cost $30 AUD including freight. I like that this one had a nylon spring retainer so it won't mark up the latch and even nylon bushings.


Turns out that the hole spacing was the same as the Volvo latch so I used the reinforcement plate from it. Used weld through primer before plug welding it on.


One thing I didn't like was that the handle for the safety catch had to sit on a little pedestal in front of it to work. So I drilled a hole and attached directly to the arm and turned the catch around to face the other way just like the Volvo one was.


Even reused the original pin by reflaring the end after cutting and trimming down the nylon bush to fit each side of the arm.


I made a new upper plate for the grille from a single piece. Apart from the fold to sit in front of the radiator seal, it was all folded by hand as has a gentle curve to it. Also bead rolled in a raised section for the lower catch to sit under. This will add more stiffness for it.


The factory setup on the older grille had the plate attached directly to the front face of the grille which means you would see the spot welds. The later ones had an extra fold come back under the top flange where it was spot welded to it. I brought the fold up earlier and then forward under the upper flange where it will be plug welded. I think it looks neater and means the fold is closer to the lower latch removing flex.


Got some temporary screws holding it in place until it gets plug welded later. Latch looks good too I think. No dimple holes here as it keeps the air from travelling over the top of the radiator.


Another thing I did this week was lower the grille and guards down creating more angle on the front guards and bonnet. Was only 1.5 degrees but flows better than dead level. It has pulled the guard away from the firewall, but I have to rebuild that anyway.


Was not happy that the bonnet was sitting up a bit mainly on one side after the front support was screwed into place.


I used my sand bag to weigh down the other side while I lifted this side up leaving my hand under the step while pushing down with all my weight on the raised corner.


The middle had to come up a touch too so supported it while hanging down on each side.


This side has come up well.


This side has the right profile on the outside, but one section on the inside near the outer headlight hole is too close.


A bit of hammering with the right shaped hammer to fix it.


Much better.


About as good as I can get it right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,273
I have asked a few times lately about the colour and that has been something we have been deciding on for the last 10 years! Was really only ever between olive and bronze, but recently ruled out bronze so that leaves olive. I think it won't date when I built the Willys and harks back to its military heritage.
I want a modern take on the olive with plenty of depth to it that is not a pearl, don't want dramatic colour changes, or hard to repair candy. So like a metallic, or most probably a mica based paint.

I have always like these colours below.





I think this is actually Rescue Green but the evening light or a filter changes it to what I am after. Stock colour is too bright.


The Dacia I took photos of while in Norway, looks better in the sun, is the closest I have found to a stock colour to those above so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,275

Closest stock colour to the preferred first photo I have been shown so far is Verdoro green as shown on this Holden HT 1969 Monaro. Was used on other GM cars like the Firebird in the same era.

Not a lot to show this week as was researching parts for the project coming up, and that can take some time!


A bit of CAD work to get a template for the lower grille reinforcement panel.


I put a step around the edge so it sits flush with the grille flange underneath and sits down from the top. Having the main part lower means I could put a drain in the panel that didn't need to go through the grille flange as well.


Even though I stretched the bead area first on the English Wheel, it is still bowing down in the middle. This tells me the top of the bead needs more stretch to level it.


So I made up this T bar from some rusty bar that fitted the bead. Hammered down into the hollow of the bead directly over the table. Lots of little hits working back and forth and it straightened right up.


Might work well as a post bead stretch even if you have not wheeled it first. Certainly will improve it. I had also rounded the ends of the beads as usual with some pipe with half of it notched out of the end.


I was worried the beads were a little bold but they match the ones in the doors and went with that. Once behind the grille they don't look too bad.


This can now be spot welded in place. Will just add some sealer over the gal coat beforehand around the edges to keep water out.


The panel will get painted satin black and not body colour so should blend in better. Never been a fan of seeing body colour behind grilles.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,279 (Edited)

The only part of the whole cooling system I am changing is the cooler for the hydraulic fluid driving the fan and the power steering. It sat in front of the radiator and condenser and was only 100mm-4" high, but went the full width of it. That meant the whole radiator assembly had to be spaced back for it. So I thought replacing it with this 18" dual pass, (two chambers inside), finned cooler used for automatic transmissions would be a good idea.


Doesn't take up any space sitting in the V, but wasn't happy with the look of it and the outlets interfered with the latch. These are typically mounted to the frame rail so could place it there instead, but have decided to go with a shorter but taller OEM cooler instead with the same surface area as the stock one. So if anyone wants a brand new finned cooler for $50, let me know. ;)


Next thing on my list to tackle is the triangle portion of the guard where it bolts to the firewall. I want to have the even gap continue all the way.


What I thought was caused by damage when I first got the truck, turns out to be factory! This part of the guard actually goes inwards by 10mm-3/8"!


The ruler is showing where the edge of the bonnet sits over the guard.


Now you can clearly see the gap they all have and how they have gone to some effort to make it this way too! Why I think it is there is that the corner of the bonnet drops down into this area as it is lifted due to the type of hinges used. I don't have stock hinges anymore so can't test that theory out. When choosing the different hinges to use on this I made sure this wouldn't happen so I could get rid of this.


That triangle piece is actually part of the inner guard stamping, so not easy to redesign. The outer guard is spot welded to it as well so removing the gap actually moves the guard outwards. So all has to be redesigned.
 
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