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The rig looks awesome [smilie=bal_cool.gif] The canister relocation came out great. Nice body work too.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Got any after shots of the sliders? Looks like they held up
I've been meaning to take a closer look at the sliders for a while. At the time it was too cold out. And then they got covered in mud. Finally had to wash her off for the Toy Run and took a closer look. Low and behold they did get dented:



No big deal. After all, thats what they are for!


For a while now I've been going back-and-forth between getting some JK D44's or building up my own axles. According to the guys at IROR the JK axles are now being sold a la carte (i.e. rotors, calipers, etc. sold separately) and the price has gone up considerably. I have thus committed to building my own. For the front I got a high pinion D30 from a '94 XJ and for the rear I got a D44 from an '87 XJ. These D44's are rare since they were only available on '87-'89 XJ's with the tow package and I needed to travel to New Hampshire to get it.

Front high pinion D30:


Rear D44:


I paid $150 for the front and $200 for the rear which is dirt cheap around here. Most yards are selling the D30's for $300-$550 and D44's from TJ's for (well) over $1000.

I'm going to strip them down and do a complete rebuild so by the time I'm done the only parts remaining will be the housings, knuckles, and bearing caps. Gearing will be 4.56's with a Detriot Locker in the rear. The rear will of course be adapted to disc brakes and I want to keep ABS working all around. I'm considering a Superior Super 30 kit w/ ARB in the front but its not clear if this kit works with ABS. I called Superior and was told the axles are machined to accept a tone ring but the guy I was talking to did not give the impression he really knew what he was talking about. Its looking like I am on my own when it comes to ABS in the rear. The wildcard in all this is what to do with the suspension. I'm definitely stripping off all the mounting brackets and replacing them. The question is whether to stick with short-arms and 4 1/2" springs or go with long-arms and 4 1/2"-5 1/2" springs. If long-arms then triangulated 4-link, 5-link, or maybe something entirely different? Decisions, decisions. I'm even thinking about designing my own suspension.

While up in NH picking up the rear axle I had to wait a few hours while they pulled the axle so I asked them to direct me to some local trails. The sent me to some power lines a few miles away. Its was slippery out there! My daughter and I did not get a quarter mile down the trail before we ran into a kid who had his TJ (on street tires) mired. His mother and father were out there in a Land Rover trying to get him unstuck. They had already snapped a tow strap and tensions were running high. We spend the next hour or so shoveling and jacking and were finally able to pull him out with my tow strap. In the end we did not get much wheeling in and never took any action pictures because my daughter and I were to busy fighting about who got to drive.

 

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i need to get the sliders before i cause myself any damage. i'm planniing on building a set, not much to it. i hope they look as good as those when i finish. nice jeep, good pics
 

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Any plans to swap the drums for discs out? Nice pick ups though :D
 

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The super 30 kit is NOT abs friendly. I had looked into it and a local Jeep shop got me the info, it says in the info they will work, but from very one I talked to that is not true. So to keep the abs you would have to go another route. Hope this helps. Honestly I disconnect my abs when I go offroad, it can be a real pain in the slippery stuff. I have had it kick in when braking down hill in the mud, and that is real bad timing!! I find it stops better in the mud better disconnected. Then I just reconnect the sensors when back on the street and clear the codes with my scanner. I think if you wheel it a lot and are bigger than 33's its better with the abs out of the picture, it can't compensate right for the bigger tires and can falsely activate because of that. JUST MY 2 CENTS!! And by no means etched in stone!! Just hope it helps.

And Techno, rig and diffs look good!! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Fuzzy, yes, disc brake conversion is a must-do!

Rock, I'm definitely interested in any information you have on the rear disc conversion. I know how to adapt the ZJ rear discs to this axle but IMO its something of a hack job. I'm going to send you a PM in case you miss this thread.

Magnum, I hear you on the ABS. Its taken me years to accept ABS. It took me a long time to accept automatic transmissions and power windows for that matter. ABS is definitely nice to have for the snow and did save my a$$ once. On the other hand I managed many years without ABS so maybe I should just let it go.
 

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Yeah , I will agree ABS is very nice on the street when it is working properly and not mismatched with too big of tires and gearing to throw it off. But it also is a pain when wheeling, so its kinda a catch 22 there. I quess if ya can make it work, stick with it if you do a lot of street driving.
 

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I cut the ABS lines on my rig. They can be way too much a pain in the arse on the trail. Just careful driving on the road, but with the 9er I was already doing that :)
 

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the super 30 will work with abs. the inner shafts are 30 spline but the outers are 27 spline in order to use the stock unit bearings. Just use outers from a u-jointed 4.0 ZJ. Problem is the rear axle...
 

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the super 30 will work with abs. the inner shafts are 30 spline but the outers are 27 spline in order to use the stock unit bearings. Just use outers from a u-jointed 4.0 ZJ. Problem is the rear axle...

Nice bit o info, thanks northwoods!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Time for a quick update. Over the past couple months I've been accumulating all the parts needed for my axle build. I'm basically there now except for gear oil, some brake tubing, and outer rear wheel bearings. All I need now is time and a big dose of motivation; setting up gears sucks!

Brackets for the rear axle came from Mad 4WD. These brackets are for a 5-link set-up so this means I have committed to a 5-link set-up (almost certainly RE) when I install a long-arm kit:



Rubicon Express extreme duty adjustable front track bar and JKS adjustable rear track bar. Although these are not strictly required for the axle swap my current front track bar is not cutting it and I figure might as well get these now so I'll be ready when the long-arms go on:




Yukon 4.56 gears with master install kit and Detroit Tru-Trac for the front:



Yukon 4.56 gears with master install kit and Detroit Locker for the rear:



Heavy-duty front axle shafts with 297x u-joints and OEM replacement unit bearings:



Crown ball joints. The part number on the boxes was the same but the joints have a slightly different look. Need to check this out:



Rear disc brake kit from Teraflex:



I've got some runs with the Jeep club penciled in for April and May so now I just need to get it done!
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Drove down to Waterbury, CT last week. Words are inferior so here's the pictures:







Plus I made some real progress.

Detriot Locker installed in the rear axle:



Detriot Tru-Trac installed in the front axle:



Brackets welded on (some of them are just tacked/bolted in the photos):









To be continued . . .
 

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44 and hp30?
 

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This brings back memories :D

RockZJ

of much frustration.


i still have a socket inside my unibody frame from it detaching from my extension while taking the rear uppers off on the drivers side. it rattle and drives me crazy at all times
 

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Cool, looks like its off to a good start!
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I have the rear axle bolted in. All thats left is to connect the brakes lines and driveshaft then fill the diff with gear lube. The D44 is considerably shorter than the D44a so the rear driveshaft is at a local shop getting 1 1/2" added.

Axle shafts and brakes installed:





Rear brake plumbing:





A few shots of the installed rear suspension:







Ran into some complications with the front. Got the axle out no problem:




Went to remove the track bar bracket which is getting replaced with a double-shear unit and one of the bolts snapped off:



This bolt goes through to a nut that is welded to the engine mount bracket. Plan A was to remove the engine mount bracket and try to extract the broken bolt. I pulled the engine mount (what a PITA) and then proceeded to break off another one of the bolts holding on the engine mount bracket. Plan B is to just get that MF out of there and get a new bracket because I don't feel like screwing around extracting bolts. I just love it when what should be a 10 minute bolt-on job turns into a multi-hour ordeal.
 
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