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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Drove to work yesterday morning, no troubles. Left work, Jeep unlocked normally, interior lights on, ding ding ding putting key in, then turn key -- N O T H I N G ! No relay click, no turning over, nothing. Radio and windows and fan all NOT working either.

Thought might be battery - but jump didn't help and then found mulitmeter - tested at 12.5 or 12.6. Pulled battery cables and cleaned them, didn't look bad. Battery is only about 6 months old (or less) and cleaned cables up well then.

I'm thinking ignition switch is bad. Sound reasonable? Pulled it off, got one from AutoZone had some troubles getting it on, it had a brass strip hanging out of it new... I think it was messed up/ defective.

What is this? Where should it be when putting new switch in? It moves freely fore and aft. I know to have the key looking part on the new switch parallel to the big electrical connections when mounting. Didn't have much trouble with the lock core, etc.

What is this? RED ARROW


 

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Discussion Starter #3
More help

I got the ignition switch installed and working correctly.

I am still having troubles. I have interior lights and when you put the key in the off position it goes "ding ding" BUT when you turn the key to start or accessory - nada. No power to anything like the radio - no start no clicking no attempt to start. Nothing! Exterior lights will turn on --

It's got to be something electrical- I think. I really thought it was the ignition switch -

Any of the experts have any ideas?
 

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Take another good look at that battery cable! It is very possible it has corroded inside at the battery or starter! Check the negitive side also. You may have lost the ground at the engine block. You can bypass the neg. side by using jumper cable from the neg side of the battery to a good ground on the block.....Remember that when you use a meter on the battery, really the only thing you are doing is checking voltage. You can't check AMPS without a load tester. You need AMPS to push the 12 volts to the starter. Sorry if this sounds like I'm talking to a 9th grader, I don't know your maintenance background. keep us posted!--Jim
 

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I can't go look at my ZJ right now. It's still in the shop where it's been for the last two months - long story. If I remember right, the battery cable goes right into a fuse box behind the battery and there are two fuses, one 60 amp and the other 40 amp that feed to the ignition circuit. Check those. It's unlikely they are blown (never seen one blow yet) but it's something to check. If one is bad it might explain why some things work and others don't. Mine is a '95 though so yours might be different.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I can't go look at my ZJ right now. It's still in the shop where it's been for the last two months - long story. If I remember right, the battery cable goes right into a fuse box behind the battery and there are two fuses, one 60 amp and the other 40 amp that feed to the ignition circuit. Check those. It's unlikely they are blown (never seen one blow yet) but it's something to check. If one is bad it might explain why some things work and others don't. Mine is a '95 though so yours might be different.
Something to check, thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Starter? Nope.

For giggles I pulled the starter and had it tested at AZone today.

It's fine. I know a bad starter/ solenoid didn't 100% fit by symptoms but I was kind of hoping!
 

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On the end of the lock cylinder is a "c" shaped piece of pot metal that turns the ignition switch. These can crack or fracture a chunk out of it causing the ignition switch not to turn. If a chunk is missing the lock cyl. and switch are not in synch. Pull the lock cylinder and look at the end and check it out. This piece is replaceable and held in with a small roll pin. It lists for about 7 bucks. Most dealers do not stock it. Easier to sell a new cylinder and code it to your key. It will take your dealer about a week to order it if that is the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
All fixed !

My wife got frustrated with me stealing her car, driving the 40 minutes to my work parking lot to try to fix it, but never get it fixed. Finally Monday morning we paid a local guy $55 to tow it the 3/4 of a mile up the hill to the local Jeep dealership. They were awesome, I explained what the problem was and what I had done (with your kind suggestions) and they proceeded to work.

It took a tech a few hours to backtrace it, but there were some corroded wires under the front bumper cover on the passenger's side. Long before I owned this Jeep it was hit on the passenger's front fender and repaired. Well kinda repaired (that is a whole post in and of itself...) He said it looked like those wires had been nicked at that time and just slowly rusted and corroded until they no longer made a connection. So they soldered in new wires and shrink wrapped them, loomed them etc.

I didn't really want to give up trying to fix it myself, but at some point when it is seriously inconveniencing my wife and kids... It was worth $301.

SO a few plugs: Kenny's Recovery and Repo towing - Kenny is an awesome guy. If you need a tow in the Worcester area, Kenny is the guy! My experience with him was very positive- the cost was good - he was on time and careful. 978.212.5901.

Dan's Jeep on Route 9/ Turnpike Rd. in Westboro -- Nice guys, especially Bob. They did good work and didn't charge me more than necessary, and figured out my unusual problem. http://www.dansjeep.com/

Those are just my opinions based on this experience, so caveat emptor, but I had good luck.
 

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Glad to hear it all worked out and wasn't to exspensive. It's good information for the rest of use incase we would have that type of problem too.

Thanks
 
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