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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well I'm proud to announce that after a long build period between finding time and parts, My Jeep Is DONE and Running Strong!! Pics soon I'm sorting through them, but I do have Video of the Exhaust clip at the bottom, Fully detailed build video with 0-60s and explaining everything else in the making!
Here is a list of everything I put into it and what's still stock (not for too long though :p).

The block was decked, honed, line-honed, boiled (to remove sludge), and painted black for looks. The heads have also been painted black and fully built with new OEM springs and shims, Crane 1.6 Rockers, and Mopar Lifters have been installed. I installed a Comp Cam and all other mods are listed below:

Comp Cam 20-602-9 Specs:

Duration @ .050" Lift 206 in / 210 ex
Valve Lift .480 in .512 ex
LSA 112 degrees
Centerline 108 degrees RPM Range 800-5000

RED Mopar Magnum Valve Covers
Crane 1.6 rockers
Mopar Lifters
K&N intake
Mopar ECU
E-Cutout
Flowmaster Super 44
MSD Digital 6A Ignition Box
MSD Blaster 2 Coil
MSD 8.5mm Wires
New OEM Champion Spark Plugs (THE BEST CHOICE)
95 Taurus E-Fan replaces the clutch fan (manually controlled by a 3-way switch I wired in the dash)

Stock:
Headers, All of the 2-1/4 in. Exhaust Cat. (planning on running true duals and no cats soon)
Kegger Intake Manifold
Throttle Body (want a Holley 52mm)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Pics are Here and Sorted Still More To Come:

New .030 Over Pistons


Fresh Block Before Paint and Pistons


Fresh Heads Before Paint


Just Got Back From The Machine Shop All Painted!


Nice and Clean!


Ready to go in!


Engine Bay Now!


Blaster Coil and Other Side


Fresh Black Paint on the rear louvers, rear wiper arm, bumber aplique, trailer plug cover, trailer hitch, and tailpipe
 

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Wouldn't you have gotten more power for your money by replacing the headers and exhaust first? Would have increased mpg as well. How are you going to set it up to run duals without it looking ******* or trashy? And why the Kegger over the Air Gap by Hughes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wouldn't you have gotten more power for your money by replacing the headers and exhaust first? Would have increased mpg as well. How are you going to set it up to run duals without it looking ******* or trashy? And why the Kegger over the Air Gap by Hughes?
In all honesty I didn't know about the Air Gap. I'm saving up for the M1 Mopar Intake Manifold. As for headers and exhaust, I'm going to gasket match the headers and bore out the bottoms bigger where the collecters attach to what is now the Y-pipe and will be sperate collectors when I set up the duals. As for a True Dual Exhaust Setup, I'm going to run catless 2.5" pipes from the back of the headers to magnaflow mufflers all the way to 3" tips straight out the back under the bumper on each side of the fuel tank, the pipes will run parallel right next to eachother under the truck with an X-pipe where the cat is now to balance pressure between the headers and pipes but more importantly right smack in the middle of the X-pipe is where i'll put the front O2 sensor so it gets an accurate reading from both headers for correct fuel adjustments. The rear O2 sensor will sit in one of the other pipes about 2 feet from the front sensor. Collecting a reading from one pipe should fool the rear sensor to believe the cat's still there and keep the CEL off.

And what's with all of the stuck on badges on the hatch?
My brother put these on when he owned the truck 2 years ago, I'm removing the 2WD badge and moving the trail rated badge under the V8.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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Hughes engines know their stuff, they have a few things on my upgrade list, spend some time on their site reading up on the parts you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Videos Are Here! 0-60s soon

Here are my videos:

Exhaust Clip Cutout Closed:

Exhaust Clip Cutout Open:

Detailed Explaination Of Mods and Equipment:

Evening Drive With Cutout Open!:
 

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In the last video was your engine warm or cold when you started it up? Reason being your oil pressure was very low if cold. And is the cut-out causing the CEL?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
In the last video was your engine warm or cold when you started it up? Reason being your oil pressure was very low if cold. And is the cut-out causing the CEL?
The engine was warm. The temperature on the gauge was on 210. My oil pressure has Always been about 18-20psi at idle when warm. On a cold start it's about 55-60 psi. The cutout is not causing the CEL I know for a fact because I purposely installed it after the Cat and Rear O2 Senor to prevent that. The code that comes up is P1495 for the leak detection pump on the EVAP system as explained in the detailed explanation video. I'm running a Mopar Performance ECU (California Emissions) from a 98 ZJ; Mine is a 96 (Federal Emissions). The Mopar Computer being from 98 has looks for the LDP that I don't have and throws P1495 (LDP Open Circut) and the CEL because the circut's open because it obviously doesn't exist in my Jeep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Can you get the computer re-flashed or something?
I put the stock computer back in for now. Saving some money running 87 octane again for now. But I'm throwing a P1391 code for "intermintent loss of the CMP or CKP." What's causing this? I only swithed computers. I installed a new crank sensor while the motor was out
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
And what's with all of the stuck on badges on the hatch?
She's cleaned up now. Went to the junkyard for some horns (all the puddes from 4 Wheeling before finally killed them). Found some that were a direct fit from an 08 or 09 BMW X5 (who'd have thought? :D) They are way louder and smaller. Anyway found a second Trail Rated Badge so relocated the one from the hatch to the front quarter panel and cleaned up the rest of the hatch.





 
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