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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I was out in Ocotillo Wells last weekend and exploded the front driveshaft CV-Joint where the front driveshaft goes into the pumpkin. I was able to remove it on the trail and make it home in 2WD. I am fairly certain the cause of the failure was the combination of the lift and the adjustable upper and lower control arms without addressing the shaft length. (yes, I know. I'm an idiot)
So now I am thinking of switching it to a U-Joint style instead of CV in hopes of avoiding this same issue in the future. (And, of course, addressing the shaft length.)
I spoke to a local driveline shop, and the guy told me he could build me a shaft and U-joint set up if I bring him all the pieces and some very specific measurements. He also said I need to remove and bring to him the "yoke" from the axle housing.
So............
1) By "yoke" I am assuming he means the CV-Joint "cup" that stayed attached to the axle housing when I took apart the CV-Joint on the trail. Is that right?
2) If that is right, how do I remove it? (There is a big nut in the center of it, I assume that is the starting point)
3) When I remove it, can I expect the gear oil to come pouring out?
4) What are you thoughts on switching to U-Joint vs CV-Joint? Will it be more durable in low speed AND high speed desert use?

1996 Grand Cherokee Limited
Full time 4WD (Quadratrac)
Dana 30 Front Axle assembly
4.0L I6
3.5" Lift
Adjustable track bars and control arms all the way around
31" ProComp Desert Tires
Everything else is stock.

Any help, insight, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
 

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i would try to avoid removing the yoke. someone should be able to confirm, but i think you can just get a u-joint shaft from a i6 model with a 242 or 231 t-case and bolt it up. pretty common upgrade, not really worth having someone build you one imo, unless you are stretching the wheelbase real far.
 

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I have a complete u-joint upgrade for sale, and yes you need to remove the yoke in order to upgrade it regardless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have a complete u-joint upgrade for sale, and yes you need to remove the yoke in order to upgrade it regardless.
Yeah, I know I need to remove it, but what I am wondering is:
1) By "yoke" I am assuming he means the CV-Joint "cup" that stayed attached to the axle housing when I took apart the CV-Joint on the trail. (see picture) Is that right?

2) If that is right, how do I remove it? (There is a big nut in the center of it, I assume that is the starting point)

3) When I remove it, can I expect the gear oil to come pouring out?

4) What are you thoughts on switching to U-Joint vs CV-Joint? Will it be more durable in low speed AND high speed desert use?
 

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The nut is easy to remove with a 1/2 inch torque wrench, just measure the torque setting at which the nut releases so you can tighten accordingly when you install the yoke. Oh, make sure the tires are on the ground with the e-brake on or that nut will just turn with the tires. And you aren't going to get any fluid coming out, the fill plug level is about 3 inches below the pinion seal. CV's are junk, they ride smoother on a street car but have no place off-road. Let me know if you want me to save you some money with the u-joint conversion.
 

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Yeah, I know I need to remove it, but what I am wondering is:
1) By "yoke" I am assuming he means the CV-Joint "cup" that stayed attached to the axle housing when I took apart the CV-Joint on the trail. (see picture) Is that right?
For a U-joint driveshaft you will need a different yoke. The yoke on yours now will only work for the CV style. You'll need to get another one to be able to use u-joint driveshaft.
 
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