Jeep Grand Cherokee Forum banner

21 - 36 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,191 Posts
And what will that tell me? I am thinking it will rule out a bad ground, or bad connecter. Or bad gauge maybe.

I guess it will just confirm that there really is an oil delivery issue.

Yes Dave, if you have good pressure at that point with a mechanical gauge, then its a wiring or factory gauge issue, if it still drops off then you indeed do have an oil pressure problem. Then you know you have to drop the pan and see whats going on inside. Good luck with it Dave!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
To the OP you can eliminate the possibility of a dirty connection by cleaning it, its free takes about 5 min and wont hurt anything.
Did that when I changed the sending unit. I wouldnt put it bak together dirty anyway. Connector looks brand new. In fact, the sending unit I took out of the Jeep, looked new as well. Has definitly been changed at some point in last few months.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
307 Posts
guess its time for a mechanical gauge as magnum suggested
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
guess its time for a mechanical gauge as magnum suggested
Yeah thats gonna be next... but i have already resolved myself to having to lay on my back in driveway for a day tryin to do this!!! BBrrrrrrrr!!!!! Not fun.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Well I tried an engine flush and new oil. After re filling it, I put some of the Lucas in there too. The Oil pressure starts out at 40psi. But as the engine warms up the pressure starts dropping while I am driving. Within about 20 minutes,the pressure is steady @ 20psi. If ya get on the gas hard, the pressure drops right out of it. It comes back up to 20 when ya back off the gas almost completely.

So its looking more like bad bearings than an oil pump... but it goes in the shop in two weeks to have the pan dropped and have the main caps pulled to check the bearings. While he is in there, he will do the pump.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,191 Posts
Well Dave sorry to hear that, but yeah it does sound that way. :( Hopefully you slip in some bearings and a pump and get her back on the road!! Good luck, sorry it worked out that way for ya.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
307 Posts
stop using lucas
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
UPDATE: Got the $500 call from the garage yesterday afternoon. The main bearings were worn enough to lower the oil pressure. The Rod bearings are shot. Down into the copper on a few of them. And those make the oil PSI lower. The crank isnt scored or marked up enough to have to be ground down. So this afternoon it gets new mains and rod bearings and a new oil pump and rear main seal. Hopefully we get it back tomorrow afternoon with no more issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
307 Posts
sounds good, hope everything works out for you. now just run the recommended viscosity and it should last you a while longer! on a side note i would not recommended the use of 5 min motor flushes. the are very harsh solvents (mainly kerosene) that are bad for the seals in your motor. on top of that they can break off "chunks" of deposits and clog passageways in your motor. if you are interested in cleaning your internals, you should use a gentle cleaner. google auto-rx, it is a gentle ester based cleaner that dissolve deposits and puts them in your oil filter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
UPDATE: Got the $500 call from the garage yesterday afternoon. The main bearings were worn enough to lower the oil pressure. The Rod bearings are shot. Down into the copper on a few of them. And those make the oil PSI lower. The crank isnt scored or marked up enough to have to be ground down. So this afternoon it gets new mains and rod bearings and a new oil pump and rear main seal. Hopefully we get it back tomorrow afternoon with no more issues.
Hell of a deal for $500!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Got the Orvis back today. $627 for the main and rod bearings, oil pump, main seal, gasket, and adjust the rear E Brake. Runs good. Stays at 40 psi while driving. Drops to about 30 at low idle. Just a quick touch of the gas and hops back up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
307 Posts
as long as psi is no longer decreasing as rpm's are increasing....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,191 Posts
Got the Orvis back today. $627 for the main and rod bearings, oil pump, main seal, gasket, and adjust the rear E Brake. Runs good. Stays at 40 psi while driving. Drops to about 30 at low idle. Just a quick touch of the gas and hops back up.
Glad to here Dave!!!! Sounds like it should be a nice ZJ now!!

And cav, I agree on the solvents flush , that stuff is hard on everything. We usually flush with a light weight motor oil, just do a couple 10=50 mile oil changes to try and flush if needed. But honestly we don't do any flushes any more, not really needed like it used to be 20 years ago.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
307 Posts
I agree mag, although there are some known sludgers that are new. And due to neglect some sludge up as well; crank vents, over extended OCI's etc. The thing about auto-rx is that it can be used in transmissions, differentials, power steering, as well as motors. Also you can use it in smaller doses (3-4 oz) to keep things clean and keeps your seal pliable. It has many benefits, but its a little expensive. well worth it IMHO. I've never met an unsatisfied customer, and no I have no affiliations! nor do I benefit from this, just trying to point this out to y'all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
Cavaliers1323 Where did Lucas Motor Oil touch you...show us on the doll
This thread is over thirteen years old. If you want to join a forum just to troll people, consider joing one thats more active currently. I hear the civic forums are great for that sort of thing...
 
21 - 36 of 36 Posts
Top