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Discussion Starter #1
The Background: After replacing the tranny filters (2) and pan gasket I developed a pretty bad leak last week in my garage. Afraid I would blow it up due to lack of fluid, I took my 02' WJ (158k miles) to a chain tranny place here locally to fix this problem. While the pan seal was part of the problem, they showed me how the major leak was actually coming from the transfer case. When they pulled the 247J transfer case to replace all the seals (fixing the leak) they said it was basically toast. I have not seen how bad it is blown-up for myself but they are quoting me $1700 to rebuild it with a simple 1 year warranty. I called Auto Zone and they can get me a completely rebuilt unit for $1000 (not a wrecked unit) that has a 3 year unlimited mileage warranty. I know you gotta pay people for their time but it is so small and simple I am thinking I can do this myself, save money, and get a better product with better protection.

Other info: After I allowed this chain repair place do $150 in labor to replace the pan seal and drop the transfer case, I found out that this shop does not even rebuild their own transfer cases anyways. (What the crap!?) I thought all transmission specialty shops would do their own work but that was really ignorant to assume.

My Questions:
1) Is installing a transfer case extremely difficult especially if the old one is already removed? This is my 2nd Jeep and I have gotten pretty dirty replacing stuff before.

2) Is a warranty and/or product from Auto Zone worth a crap? I know an outside company (Midfield?) does the work.

3) Anybody know of a company who has ready-made transfer cases with a warranty? I already checked with O'relly, Advanced, Napa and none of them had anything that compared in price or warranty. I checked all other local places and their prices to rebuild are much higher than the one in which I am currently tied to.

Thanks for your help.
Devin
 

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I'd just look for someone (like myself) who is upgrading from the 247 to a 231/242 and buy their old 247. Sure, maybe it doesn't have a warranty, but you should be able to get one for ~$150-200, then just bolt it in and go.

You're not going to be driving your WJ until you get a transfer case in it, are you planning on having it towed home?
 

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My driveline shop told it would be $3700 (cdn) for a stock replacement 247 and $1200 for the viscous coupler that is blown. What i did though is just put a rebuild kit in and leave the coupler alone. What this did is give me 2wd and 4lo, the only problem with this is that its hard on the cv joint driveshaft in the front. I dont think this is a good idea but its what i can afford for now.

horatio102 can you keep me informed as to how your swap go's, thats the line i was going to take but not sure what all needs to be done. I dont have alot of experiance with this sort of thing i just know how to pull out the 247 and then put it back in.
 

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From what I can tell, get a 231/242 and make sure the input shaft matches what was on your 247 in length/splines/etc, and bolt it up. The shifter bezel won't match the positions but you should be able to get one that does if it bothers you. If the input shaft doesn't match, I think you can swap the one out of your 247 into the 231/242. It doesn't sound like it's all that hard of a task.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update

I was so pissed about them taking forever (11 days), misquoting me prices on a swap or a rebuild, and never calling me back that I raised hell and got them to tow it back to the house for free last Wed. The wife is on maternity leave so it isn't that big a deal to be without right now.

I asked that they leave it all unbuttoned and show me what was wrong with the tc. After looking at it closer tonight I don't believe rebuilding it is a science I want to learn over the holidays or ever for that matter. I am with you horatio I either need to buy it from someone who is swapping one out or get a rebuilt one and bolt her back in.

My concern with buying someone's used unit is that I tow my flats boat and the whole family 800 miles in the spring down to Islamorada and I don't want one blowing-up on me and costing me $2500 in lovely Miami. It seems like every time I try to take a shortcut on these kinds of things it comes back to bite me in the butt.
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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Your best bet then would be to buy a rebuilt one and replace it yourself. I replaced mine with a used unit I found locally for $150.

It wasn't too bad of a swap.
-Unbolt and remove both drivelines.
-Unbolt the t-case selector bracket from the t-case and tranny.
-Unbolt the transmission/t-case mount from the t-case itself, leave it attached to the frame
-Raise the trans with a jack and some boards so you don't bend the pan
-Unbolt the lower and side transfer case bolts
-Lower the trans back down so the t-case touches the mount, but keep trans supported.
-Unbolt the t-case bolts on top and slide the t-case out.

It really isn't that tough to do. You may want to have someone help you take the t-case out if you think it will be too heavy. I did it by myself, it wasn't too bad. My jeep is lifted fairly high too, so i was able to just sit up underneath of it and slowly lower the old case and then raise the new case.
 

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My t case split on me about a month ago it has taken about that long to find a replacement I was looking for a 242 but ended up with another 247 any one on here have a 242 HD that they want to sell and ship to El Paso Tx cause the junk yards here suck lol thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
You are correct 85IrocZ-28. I ended-up getting a rebuilt unit delivered last week and I spent the better part of 5 hours installing it today. Once you have the skid plates and 4 bolts on each of the drive shafts removed it is really easy to do. There are 6 bolts on the case and only the top one is difficult to access. With the old unit dropped it only took about 90 minutes to get the new one in.

Sidenote: I got a Technical Service Bulletin from the company I bought the unit from saying to only use Mopar brand fluid in the new case to avoid the low speed grunting which has always kind of bothered me. The stealership was closed so I will have to wait unit Monday to get 1.7 quarts of the special stuff. They say not to use ATF-4 which I have plenty of.

I will try to post some pics of the 247 swap that may help others. To get my re manufactured unit, I used Transfer Case Express out of SC/CA. It was $795 plus $80 for shipping. They do not charge a core but give you 3 weeks to return it. I would highly recommend them. They delivered my unit in 48 hours from the time I ordered it.

BTW AutoZone sells the same product for $1193 and charges a $350 core. Advanced does not provide this service for retail customers.
 

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YETI - The Abominable WJ
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Great info, glad you have a case...and yes, ONLY USE MOPAR FLUID in your t-case. It isn't cheap, but it is necessary with Viscous Couplers in the Full Time cases.

Question for you, did your t-case have any problems that affected drivability? I pulled my front driveline today trying to track down some noises. When I am on the gas at 55+mph, there is a vibration and kind of a grinding sound. Without the driveline, no sound. Did you have any noises like that? Or any other drivability issues?
 
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