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I have recently purchased a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited and am new to the vehicle.... I love it so far but it has a few gremlins I have yet to figure out. Any help would be appreciated ....

1: The driver door has to be locked manually. Is this the norm? if not, how can I change it to lock with the FOB (power lock and unlock)
2: Power mirror have a mind of their own.... they move with the pressing of the FOB
3: The heated side mirror on driver side is very difficult to see .... it looks like 'permenent raindrops'.... can I replace the glass only or will I need a whole new unit


thanks for the time and I look forward to getting more into the Jeep and this community. Adam
 

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Check the wires in the rubber accordian between the driver's door and the body (door open). Fix any broken wires. That may be the problem with 1 and 2.

How are the batteries in the remote fob?

Mirror; the auto dimming has failed. Dealer only sells the whole mirror assembly for $$$.

Get a mirror glass only off ebay or a junkyard. Cheap if you don't do the dimming thing.
 

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you can get the mirror replaced at any place that does windshields, etc for fairly reasonable and sounds like the wiring is shorting out in the door
 

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You can buy the heated mirror glass. Try rockauto.com.

If the door lock actuator is getting power when the button is pushed, then change the door lock actuator.

Donald
 

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I thought I would add to this thread rather than start a new one. The drivers door on my 98ZJ does not lock or unlock with the remote ( keyless entry) All other doors and tailgate work with the keyless.I have no horn sound or indicator flash when locking or unlocking. I can lock all the other doors with the remote and get into my vehicle with the key through the drivers door start and drive away. The power seats , mirrors all work to the remote but not the drivers door. What should I be looking for?
 

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Same as above, look at the wires between the door and the body. They are under the rubber boot that acts like an accordion to protect them. It is very common to have wires break.

If that isn't it, pull the door panel and give power directly to the actuator. If the actuator works with a good power and ground, it is good and you have an electrical gremlin. If not, the motor itself (lock actuator) is bad and needs to be replaced.
 

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I will check the wiring today. The rest of the electrics all work fine ( I hope that is not tempting fate) . All the power operated systems work as they should except for the passenger door mirror and there is something loose inside that.
 

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Here is a thought. Before you go and take apart the Jeep why dont you re-program your FOB first. This would be easier if it is the problem.
You fob's Programing could have gone all waked out at some point for some reason.
Look up in the search bar for how to program your FOB remote.
 

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I searched for the Fob program thread and found quite a few. I will try the reprogramming method I found and see if it helps. Its a bit of a puzzle sometimes as here in the UK our 97, 98 models seem to be your 96 models. The Orvis I have is registered in 99 and yet its a 98 on the build sheet. The 97ZJ I have, still has the 2 button keyfob not the 3 button fob.

In some threads it says you can only program up to 96 yourself. After that it seems you have to use the dealers.
 

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I tried the re programming and it did nothing..So I checked the wiring inside the accordeon in the door and indeed there was a black wire that was broken. I fixed the wire and tried again but the drivers door still does not lock or unlock on the fob.
What I do have now is the indicators flash and the alarm arms when I lock with the remote.
Just taking 5 now and then I am going to have a look inside the door.
 

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I had a look inside the door and can not see whats wrong. The lock actuator is clicking but does not move the rods that work the lock. If I look down at the actuator I can see a small piece of white plastic that moves a quarter turn one direction when I click the lock on the fob and moves back a quarter turn when I click unlock on the fob. Nothing else moves. I will take thelock out tomorrow and see if anything is loose or broken.
 

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Try disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes

I had these issues with my door locks & windows. Turns out it was not the wiring, but an electical glitch between the body and door control modules. The temporary fix was "rebooting", i.e. disconecting the battery. The problem returned in a couple of days, this went on for about six months (I was carrying a 1/2" wrench to keep on doing this until I installed a quick disconnect). Then, as mysteriously as it came, the problem went away. For the last couple of years it has not been an issue.
 

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Today the alarm has started twice on it own after locking the car . I lock the car with the fob and then lock the drivers door with the key. Twice as I have walked away the alarm started. The rest of the time it has worked normally. Could the drivers door not working on the fob cause a glitch now and then.
 
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