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jeepjunkiegc98

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey everybody,

New to the forum so any help is greatly appriciated.. I have a 98 zj 5.9 limited with the 249 tc. I want 2wd and have read so many different articles etc.. on these swaps and still not sure which way to go. Does anybody no what year, motor, etc should i get a Tranfer case out of to make transition smooth as possible. I'm trying to stay away from splitting case and changing shafts and so forth. I'm aware the 242 has a all wheel drive option but dont really care either way. Just want 2wd option for street. Running 31's now with plans on 33' in future. I also know the 231 has more aftermarket support, so I'm leaning toward it, but i would think that a 242 out of 96 and newer grand with 5.2 would be the same. My confusion is in the short, med and long shafts I've been reading mostly. Can someone help? ThANKS
 
Easiest way is to pull your t-case (not that hard) and see what length input shaft you have. I "think" the 5.9's come with a Med. input. Then hit the yard and check inputs. There are no absolutes when it comes to Jeep/NV match ups. HTH

Sam
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
thanks for the quick reply. I have read that also about the 5.9 have the med input (which is the rarest). Any advise on which is better the 231 or 242? I notice your running the 231...Which shaft do you have, I also heard about different gear cut? pre 95?
 
231 has more aftermarket support. It's more about where you'll be driving your Jeep. If you want the part time 4wd than the 242 is your only option. If you just want the 2wd option for locker options and such than go for the 231.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
yeah i think I'll go with the 231 option. I live in florida, so no ice and snow. If I get a 231 with a different input length, can I use the one from my 249?And to just double check that is the only concern when doing this swaps(length of input shaft). Thanks
 
Long shaft for mine. I "think" '95 and newer 231's have the proper gear cut for your ZJ. I would grab a '98 231 and just swap input shafts if necessary. I went with the 231 for more ground clearance and shorter case. If you're going to lock your axles, the 242 is kinda nice since you'll have wet roads to deal with. My Xj with 4.56 gears & Detroit in the rear would fishtail from a stop with just a little punch of gas pedal & wet roads in 2wd. Full-time kept that in check, as the front would engage and straighten me out. HTH.

Sam
 
I like the 242 myself.. Both have two wheel options one post made it seen 242 does not... Sye kits are available for both I'm not sure about a 4:1 kit but that's pretty expensive and usually worth building a doubler or saving for a stronger case and better gear ratios in the atlas. Clearance isn't an issue and I didn't think the case size was much different.. 242 seemed about exactly the same as my 249
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
another problem

I appreciate all the info from everybody. Isn't the internet a great tool? Well I decided on the 231, until the last two post from Dankness and Vista. I might
as well go with the 242 and have the best of both world. Now that I know there is sye kit availiable if I need one.MY son will start driving it also and the all time 4wd which will be safer, especially after I do my motor mods on the 5.9.Btw has anybody used a superchip on the limited 5.9, THey advertise up to 50 hp gain, which is alot for a gasser. Also I have a knocking noise that seems to come from all 4 corners when I hit a bump/hole with that tire. It's been there for awhile but has gotten louder. Could it be a bushing of some sort. Didn't know if maybe there was a common problem on these. I have a 114 k mile on it. Thanks
 
Gear pitch is '94.5-'95. Find a case built around the same time as the 249 you're replacing, and all should be well.

Dankness-242 & 249 cases are about the same size. The 231 is shorter and sits a little higher than both. My 231 barely hangs below the frame rails (if at all), where my 249 was a good bit below the rails. With the low c.o.g. family camper/expo vision I have for this rig, a couple inches meant alot here in the Rockies.
 
especially after I do my motor mods on the 5.9.Btw has anybody used a superchip on the limited 5.9, THey advertise up to 50 hp gain, which is alot for a gasser.
If I told you that I could make you $20,000 if you sent me $20 would you do it :rolleyes:

If you're looking at doing anything under the hood, talk to Sean Powell (hemifever@aol.com) about getting an SCT Tuner. It REALLY woke up my niner' and I can change things down the road when and if I want to. I bought the tuner when the Jeep only had a K/N FIPK and once the new tune went on there, it felt like a whole different animal ! ! Definitely worth the $$$$ for sure ! ! !

I have since added a few things and he has worked with me every step of the way.
 
My skid protects it just the same. It is possible to clock the cases so I wouldn't make that my first priority. I have a tj w the 231 and it seems to hang just as low in relation to the "frame" rails on mine.
 
All of the tc used from 96-98 use the same input shaft, so if you get a 231 or 242 from an XJ or ZJ from those years, it is a simple swap. Be sure and get the shift tab, as the 249 one is longer than the others and get the shift gate if coming from a ZJ. Then it is a simple adjustment. Keep in mind that the SYE for the 242 is just a Hack-N-Tap or one the Tom Woods that does the same to it. The SYE for the 231 is a much nicer setup.
 
Yes, for the 242 only. Advance Adaptors makes a very good SYE for the 231. Tom Woods make one for the 242 like the Hack-N-Tap described below and you just swap output shafts. It is more precise than doing it yourself, but still not a good as the 231 combo because the yoke is further from the bearing on the 242 and subject to vibration after time.

You have to "Hack" saw off the rear output shaft at the correct place. Then drill & "Tap" the end of the remaining shaft to accept the bolt that holds the new yoke that the new double cardon drive shaft attaches to. Hense the name "Hack-N-Tap". A SYE is only needed on either tc in the event you lift it beyond what a standard ds will work. When you lift a jeep, the ds angle increases and the standard ds with the slip at the tc works fine up to 4" or so. At that height and higher, a double cardon shaft, which requires a SYE, works better.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
crasher, if I understand correctly I should not need a sye for the 242 if I stay with a 4" lift or less? Would a tc lowing kit also help? 4" lift and some berzerk flares or similar with 33" tires is all I want. I definitely wont go the hack n tap route, I would just do the 231 instead..Thanks
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
I have a knocking noise that seems to come from all 4 corners when I hit a bump/hole (SMALL BUMP) with that tire. more noticiable in the front. It's been there for awhile but has gotten louder. Could it be a bushing of some sort. Didn't know if maybe there was a common problem on these. I have a 114 k mile on it. Thanks


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I have a knocking noise that seems to come from all 4 corners when I hit a bump/hole (SMALL BUMP) with that tire. more noticiable in the front. It's been there for awhile but has gotten louder. Could it be a bushing of some sort. Didn't know if maybe there was a common problem on these. I have a 114 k mile on it. Thanks


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If your major connecting hardware is solid (bushings and such) double check the sway bar bushings. I had a clunk for a while and when I went to take the sway bar off I saw (what was left...lol) of a deteriorated bushing that connects the sway bar to the connecting rod that attaches to the axle. Once the bar was off I had no more clunk...
 
If you plan on rebuilt it with all the hardcore stuff, go with 231.
If you are just going to bolt it on, then 242
I actually use my 231 4 x hi on freeway for ~200 miles before, there is nothing burning smell or problem at all. Even though 231 are not meant to go 4hi on freeway. But my 231 was rebuilt with all the goodies.
 
I have a knocking noise that seems to come from all 4 corners when I hit a bump/hole (SMALL BUMP) with that tire. more noticiable in the front. It's been there for awhile but has gotten louder. Could it be a bushing of some sort. Didn't know if maybe there was a common problem on these. I have a 114 k mile on it. Thanks


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Maybe your shock rebounce is set too high. (too stiff), the shocks bounces back fast & hard & bottom out
 
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