I have a 99 grand cherokee with 2wd option transfer case. Iv been looking into getting some lockers but this jeep is also my daily driver. im not looking to spend a ton of money. so should i just put one on front or both? selective or automatic? if i put automatic will it still be a decent street driver?
What lockers should I use?
cherokeecrawler25
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I have a 99 grand cherokee with 2wd option transfer case. Iv been looking into getting some lockers but this jeep is also my daily driver. im not looking to spend a ton of money. so should i just put one on front or both? selective or automatic? if i put automatic will it still be a decent street driver?
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i have a 4.5 short arm lift with a 242 tp has 2wd and 4wd options. im 17 and had the jeep about a year i go wheelin on a monthly basis and i was just lookin for that next step without takin away from street driving to much and not to expensive. arb and eaton e lockers are out of the question right now but iv been looking at detroit tru trac and aussie lockers. What would be the best i could do for the money?
You can put almost anything you want in the back. aussie is gonna be the best for your money. gives you locked rear end, but can be a little unpredictable on road (lock as you accelerate in a corner)
as for the front, you wouldnt be able to use your full time on road with an aussie, it may lock during a corner making you unable to turn. it would simply stay unlocked when in 2wd. id suggest some kind of limited slip or a selectable for the front. i know you said their too expensive i just dont like the idea of an automatic in the front with any tcase other than a 231 UNLESS you never use your fulltime on the road...
i hope this helps
as for the front, you wouldnt be able to use your full time on road with an aussie, it may lock during a corner making you unable to turn. it would simply stay unlocked when in 2wd. id suggest some kind of limited slip or a selectable for the front. i know you said their too expensive i just dont like the idea of an automatic in the front with any tcase other than a 231 UNLESS you never use your fulltime on the road...
i hope this helps
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yeah thats what i was thinkin was aussie but yeah i dont ever use my all time 4wd on the road. if i put one of those on the front would it stay unlocked as i turn as long as its not in full time? and i have about a 500 dollar budget so i was also thinkin about a detroit tru trac up front and just leave the rear open. but im not really sure cause i could get aussie front and rear or tru trac up front for the same price.
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ok man thanks for the help.
CherokeeCrawler -- I agree that an Aussie is your best bang for your buck. I've been running one for the past couple years and it has survived a lot of abuse. Any "carrier replacement" locker such as a Detroit, ARB, Eaton, Ox, etc. will also require you to re-set up the gears -- which is probably best left to a pro if you have no idea what I mean by this.
So I'm going to assume you are going to go after a locker like an Aussie that locks itself when power is supplied to it and acts as an open difff when there isn't any power to it.
Here is my take:
Locking front AND rear is ideal, but we all know the funds don't always let us do that.
Locking the front first has its merits and downfalls -- as does the rear. Both will give you newfound traction on your trail in any conditions, so either options is a very good one.
I (and others that I wheel with) locked the rear first -- while a few others locked the front first. The following are my observations, BUT they aren't indicative of EVERY possible situation. For example: I may like a rear locker better in the mud, BUT I'm sure you can come up with a situation where a front locker outperforms the rear. So consider my observations as generalizations, but of course results may vary.
My observations:
Normal road conditions: A front locker is invisible in 2wd (except you will hear it "ratchet" around the turns). A rear locker is manageable but you know it's back there and need to change your driving accordingly. Sure you can do two-wheel peel outs in 2wd, but you can also "slide" around turns if you are on the gas too hard while turning. The rear will also try to "push" you through the turn, so you might not be able to turn as sharp. A locker like an Aussie only "locks" when torque is applied to it, so it will act like an open differential if you coast around a turn. Edge: Front locker (except a rear locker can be a lot of fun once you get used to it, but cops don't like people sliding around turns so...)
Snowy/Icy Road conditions: In the snow, I'd prefer to have an open diff or LSD, but a locker is manageable. In 2wd a front locker is of course invisible, but can cause some major understeering issues in slick conditions if you engage 4wd. In 2wd, a rear locker will cause you to fishtail around basically every turn if the conditions are bad enough. Shifting into 4wd seemed to fix all problems with a rear locker in the snow. Edge: I'm going to call this a wash. I tend to prefer to stay in 2wd unless I need 4wd. Both require you to change your driving habits and can be manageable.
Muddy slick trails: I've found that a rear locker is more effective in "power" situations. Most of your power comes from your rear tires, so locking the rear gives you more traction where you get the most power from -- so it tends to be more effective. Edge: Rear
Hill climbs: This is another "power" situation, so I prefer the rear locker. However, there is a line of thinking that a rear locker can cause you to fishtail if the climb is slick or steep enough -- whereas a front locker will keep you straighter. I agree because I've seen that happen first hand, but in general, the rear locker will get you up more hills. Edge: Rear
Rocks: When crawling, you often need to "pull" yourself up onto a rock, so a front locker is generally better. Once you pull yourself on the rock, you can usually "bump" the rear over. You can't always have enough traction to "push" yourself on to a rock (i.e. with traction in the rear). Edge: Front locker
Ledges: Whether it's a rock ledge or muddy ledge, this is another situation where you need to pull your front end and can normally bump your rear over. You can't make it up a ledge if you can't get your front tires up. Edge: Front locker
Again, these are general statements, but I've also wheeled in TN/KY, which is similar terrain to what you would be wheeling in. Even if you find a rocky trail, it's more than likely going to be really slick -- which requires a lot of power. I would lock the rear first, but I also wouldn't turn down a deal on a front locker if you find one...
And if you were out west where folks wheel on flypaper -- I would probably recommend a front locker.
So I'm going to assume you are going to go after a locker like an Aussie that locks itself when power is supplied to it and acts as an open difff when there isn't any power to it.
Here is my take:
Locking front AND rear is ideal, but we all know the funds don't always let us do that.
Locking the front first has its merits and downfalls -- as does the rear. Both will give you newfound traction on your trail in any conditions, so either options is a very good one.
I (and others that I wheel with) locked the rear first -- while a few others locked the front first. The following are my observations, BUT they aren't indicative of EVERY possible situation. For example: I may like a rear locker better in the mud, BUT I'm sure you can come up with a situation where a front locker outperforms the rear. So consider my observations as generalizations, but of course results may vary.
My observations:
Normal road conditions: A front locker is invisible in 2wd (except you will hear it "ratchet" around the turns). A rear locker is manageable but you know it's back there and need to change your driving accordingly. Sure you can do two-wheel peel outs in 2wd, but you can also "slide" around turns if you are on the gas too hard while turning. The rear will also try to "push" you through the turn, so you might not be able to turn as sharp. A locker like an Aussie only "locks" when torque is applied to it, so it will act like an open differential if you coast around a turn. Edge: Front locker (except a rear locker can be a lot of fun once you get used to it, but cops don't like people sliding around turns so...)
Snowy/Icy Road conditions: In the snow, I'd prefer to have an open diff or LSD, but a locker is manageable. In 2wd a front locker is of course invisible, but can cause some major understeering issues in slick conditions if you engage 4wd. In 2wd, a rear locker will cause you to fishtail around basically every turn if the conditions are bad enough. Shifting into 4wd seemed to fix all problems with a rear locker in the snow. Edge: I'm going to call this a wash. I tend to prefer to stay in 2wd unless I need 4wd. Both require you to change your driving habits and can be manageable.
Muddy slick trails: I've found that a rear locker is more effective in "power" situations. Most of your power comes from your rear tires, so locking the rear gives you more traction where you get the most power from -- so it tends to be more effective. Edge: Rear
Hill climbs: This is another "power" situation, so I prefer the rear locker. However, there is a line of thinking that a rear locker can cause you to fishtail if the climb is slick or steep enough -- whereas a front locker will keep you straighter. I agree because I've seen that happen first hand, but in general, the rear locker will get you up more hills. Edge: Rear
Rocks: When crawling, you often need to "pull" yourself up onto a rock, so a front locker is generally better. Once you pull yourself on the rock, you can usually "bump" the rear over. You can't always have enough traction to "push" yourself on to a rock (i.e. with traction in the rear). Edge: Front locker
Ledges: Whether it's a rock ledge or muddy ledge, this is another situation where you need to pull your front end and can normally bump your rear over. You can't make it up a ledge if you can't get your front tires up. Edge: Front locker
Again, these are general statements, but I've also wheeled in TN/KY, which is similar terrain to what you would be wheeling in. Even if you find a rocky trail, it's more than likely going to be really slick -- which requires a lot of power. I would lock the rear first, but I also wouldn't turn down a deal on a front locker if you find one...
And if you were out west where folks wheel on flypaper -- I would probably recommend a front locker.
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ok man thanks. that realy helps a lot. I was lookin to go with an aussie but wasnt sure what to lock up first. but this puts all the views of a dailey driver and off road truck into perspective. thanks for all the help.
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there should be a sticky on lockers since its a FAQ. sir fuego's post was really good.
IMO the front comes in handy more on technical "real wheeling" trails. the rear is better for sand, straight-up hill climbs, and more playful style wheeling. i would go with selectables F&R if you think your gonna stick with those axles for a long time. i have autos at both ends and theres many times i would like to turn one off. the front because of bind while turning, the back because it will cause the vehicle to slide sideways and theres nothing you can do about it whereas the front you can counter-act the slide by steering.
IMO the front comes in handy more on technical "real wheeling" trails. the rear is better for sand, straight-up hill climbs, and more playful style wheeling. i would go with selectables F&R if you think your gonna stick with those axles for a long time. i have autos at both ends and theres many times i would like to turn one off. the front because of bind while turning, the back because it will cause the vehicle to slide sideways and theres nothing you can do about it whereas the front you can counter-act the slide by steering.
This is the exact setup I have (OX front, Aussie rear) and its great I love it. If you have the 242 with an aussie in the rear, if you put it in fulltime the aussie is almost nonexistent and very streetable. Also since your thinking of an aussie I'll assume you have a 44hd (aka 44a) there is another locker called the spartan that is offered now for the 44hd as well. and its a lunchbox locker just like aussie and lockright but cheaper price. If you have a d35 than aussie or lockright is the way I'd go. I had a lockright on my d35 and loved it, and now I have an aussie in my 44hd and love it.
Here's the link for the spartan: http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=9286
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I have a 95 with the 242 with 32's and a 3.5" lift and put an Aussie locker up front, love it! things that use to be hard are much easier now!! it clicks when you turn but thats what its suppose to do, if you dont mind some clicking go with an Aussie! they are pretty cheap too so thats an added bonus. I would lock up front first, no point in beefin' up a 35
First if you have a WJ you probablly have a 247 which also means you have vari-lock axles. If thats the case then you would need to get open carriers and set up geras again to run any lunck box locker(aussie, lockright, spartan) or swap out the carrier with a full case locker. From what I'v read if you do a detroit truetrac(full case limited slip) in front and an aussie in the rear it will be just fine. Besause the true trac is just a heavier duty limited slip you can still take turns without locking up. but if you get a "detroit locker"(full case auto locker) than that wont work cause it would lock just like an aussie and make turning on pavment a task. The OX locker is just like an ARB in the way its selectable, a full case locker, just as strong and just as expensive, and would require you set up your gears again. same as any full case locker or lsd, the OX does however come with a new HD diff cover and does not require OBA.
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One thing I didn't see mentioned and is important if you are on a budget: you will more likely break a front axle shaft than a rear when locking, respectively. I have an aussie in my 44a and assume (correct me if i'm wrong) that this will shift more work to the rear. I've already broke d30 shafts driving up sand hills on 32s and can't imagine what the added traction of a locker up there (without one in the rear) might do.
thanks for correcting me on the tc number!! ive read a bit about the vari lock and it seem like its the same thing as the tru trac but not as strong, and that is beefer than normal lsd's. but what s the diff between an aussie and a detroit and which is better for the money on a dd and weekend snow bashing and summer crawling??? bump if need be
The difference between an aussie and a detroit locker is: an aussie is a set of locking gears you install into your existing open carrier. think of the aussie as you puting an apple into a lunchbox. now think of the detroit as a lunchbox that came with the apple already in it.
A detroit locker: works like an aussie but you remove the whole open or lsd carrier and replace it with a full detroit with locking gears inside. Think of the aussie as a two piece system (carrier and locker). The detroit is a one piece system that is the carrier/locker in one. thats why its called a ''full case'' auto locker. An OX or ARB would be a ''full case'' selectable locker. Also a full case locker is stronger than a lunchbox locker.
If you have an open carrier than an aussie is great cause you just pop it in and go, its a cheaper way to lock your axles. If you have a lsd than its more money because now regardless you will have to re-setup gears again and in this case rather than pay for a new open carrier and an aussie, most go ahead and just buy a full case locker like detroit for the added strength.
here's a site that shows some examples: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...ev=/images?q=detroit+locker+install&start=40&um=1&hl=en&sa=N&ndsp=20&tbs=isch:1
Hi Jiggy, Glad to see you got your WJ
I too have been through the lunchbox locker phase. They really work well, but sooner or later, you will want a selectable locker in the front at least for easier, less binding turning when in 4lo. My XJ has a Detroit in the rear 8.8 and ARB in the front. My ZJ has an OX in the front hp30 and a Lockrite in the rear 8.8. I air down and carry a CO2 tank, and my Ox is air actuated and plumbed to the tank. Much simpler than the cable. Having "Been there and done that", I highly recommend that first timers wait for the funds to get a selectable locker in the front and bypass the lunchbox type. You will be much happier with the ability to turn the locker on only when needed and it is less stressful on the differential and shafts. It's surprizing how little the front locker is actually needed, but it's there with the flip of a switch.
I too have been through the lunchbox locker phase. They really work well, but sooner or later, you will want a selectable locker in the front at least for easier, less binding turning when in 4lo. My XJ has a Detroit in the rear 8.8 and ARB in the front. My ZJ has an OX in the front hp30 and a Lockrite in the rear 8.8. I air down and carry a CO2 tank, and my Ox is air actuated and plumbed to the tank. Much simpler than the cable. Having "Been there and done that", I highly recommend that first timers wait for the funds to get a selectable locker in the front and bypass the lunchbox type. You will be much happier with the ability to turn the locker on only when needed and it is less stressful on the differential and shafts. It's surprizing how little the front locker is actually needed, but it's there with the flip of a switch.
I love my Aussie but if I did it over I would get the Spartan locker.. Same as an Aussie but $250 instead of $400
https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/products.php?product=Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-Spartan-Locker
https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/products.php?product=Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-Spartan-Locker
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