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The axle dilema....

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jlloyd

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
So I've been been all over the place mentally with how I want to build the GC. I've decided on a lift, tires, wheels, and the such, but I want to upgrade the axles while I'm at it. I have the standard D35 in the rear and want to replace it. It should be quite simple (did a IFS to SFA swap several years ago) but need some info to start. I've only heard about two axles that most people go with:
- D44A, needs to be trussed and there is only one locker option.
- Ford 8.8, Needs new spring brackets (non-issue), and spacers for the width. I don't like spacers since they add unwanted stress to the hub, shafts and tubes.

What I'm looking for is an axle of the same width and a good aftermarket parts selection, but is as strong or stronger as a standard D44. I don't have wheels yet so the bolt pattern is a non-issue as well. I'm planning on running 5.5+ inches of lift with 33" tires. I know any axle will fit with "x" amount of fabrication, but a good list of comparable axles (year, make, and model of donor vehicle) that are available and the work it would take to fit these axle to the GC would be helpful. As for now, I am mainly talking about the rear, but a GOOD list and advice should include the front as well.

Any help would be appreciated!
 
#2 ·
I started a list of axles to swap into the rear of a ZJ, a list just like the one you mentioned, I soon realized it was a big task. There are just way too many opinions out there, and not enough fact when comparing the strength of axles.

Some will say the 44A is a complete waste, others say it's a perfect option because of the fit. Many love the 8.8" from the Explorer, others won't settle for less than a 9". For the front a popular swap is the HP 30, commonly found in XJs, or a Waggy 44, which is a more involved swap, but is supposed to have more strength. I can't really go in depth and give you a list because I don't know. I haven't run anything but a 30/35 combo.

Here is my opinion though. Eventually, I plan to run an HP30 up front, and an 8.8" in the rear. I was considering a 44A in the rear, easy swap, cheap, strong (kind of), but it just doesn't have the options an 8.8 does. I also plan to eventually run 35s. If you are set on 33s, and know you won't run bigger, you could probably work with a 44A, based on things I've read, it can stand up to 33s locked.

I'm going to keep looking around and see if I can dig up some more info, maybe find another perfect fit option besides the 44A, and a super 35.
 
#3 ·
Because you have the d35 now I would say go the 8.8 route. Unless you have the beans for a custom aftermarket axle the 8.8 is a great choice. Apparently you want a 95 and up disc version out of an Exploder.

If you do come across a D44a on the cheap don't count it out, Why? It bolts right into your jeep so you can take the money you save on brackets and truss it instead. Half of the long arm kits out there triangulate the rear and supply a truss to do so. The D44a has 30 spline axles, one less spline than the 8.8's and a very stout ring and pinion. The Aussie locker is awesome and very good on the street, and we all know its only a matter of time till the selection grows. I have never heard of or seen a cracked or busted centersection. If you constantly drag your pumpkin over rocks get ( or make) a skid plate for the underside of it. I've read about dudes running the D44a with 33s and even 35s for years without problems.

One last note, junk yards are catching on dude. A D44a is still kind of an odd ball unknown axle that can be had cheaply. The 8.8 is "the axle those Jeep guys always come lookin for" and now they want twice what you pay for the D44a. ( or about what the Aussie locker costs )
 
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#4 ·
seems like every time I log on, I find one of these. Are you guys tired of me on a soap box yet? :mrgreen:

jlloyd,
http://www.nagca.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22770&highlight=d44hd

I run a 44a on 35's and Aussie locked. Trussed, skidded, diff covered, and beat the ever lovin shat out of it. Still it goes. I will be moving up to 37's in the next year and I don't have a worry about 44a strength.
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
Yeah, I saw your post on your D44A buildup and the truss you had made for it. However, I'd rather not go that route to keep as much as possible in OEM state besides the brackets, gears, locking device, and possible brake upgrade which are all aftermarket bolt-ins besides the brackets. Don't get me wrong, the truss is a great product for the D44A, but it would be nice to get a standard D44, Ford 9, or hell, even a D60 for that matter. I had a 14-bolt rear in my last rig and loved it, it was a 1/2 ton GMC ex-cab pickup. Obviously a 14-bolt is way too wide for the Jeep, but you can see where I'm going with this....I hope.

So one last question, if I were to go the Ford 8.8 route couldn't I get wheels for the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern with 3.5" of back spacing? This would allow my tire to stick out giving a close to stock ride stance and the same bolt pattern which would eliminate the spacers.
 
#6 ·
Alright cool, I see where your at. I,ve read you can get a full width Dana 60 and cut it down using Ford 9 housing ends and axles. Apparently 35 spline Jeep width axles for the 9 are an off the shelf item. And if you use the ford 9 housing ends you have a whole world of braking possibilities available. The 9 inch center section is great for a HP front application but the Dana 60 (or 70) is the way out back.


I wonder if the 9 inch housing end trick would work with a 14 bolt?
 
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#8 ·
The good things about the 12bolt GM and the 44A rears are the size of the ring gears. With a bigger ring gear and more teeth on the pinion, there is more surface area to distribute the load across. This makes it harder to break. The main advantage of the 9" and the 8.8 from Ford is the 3rd bearing that supports the pinion in the housing. With that 3rd bearing, the load is less on the pinion. That is the reason that so many people swear by the Ford rears. They both have this 3rd load support bearing. It allows more of the power to move to the axles and thus to the tires and road. That's not to say that the other rears can't be made as strong with other engineering factors, its just that the 3rd bearing gives more insurance to the strength. This is not me saying i like one more than the other either.
 
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#9 ·
Actually, the 8.8 doesn't have a third bearing. The big advantage to the 8.8 is you can get the complete unit (4.10s,discs, complete) for under $200. I think it's a no brainer. Superior makes an awesome chromoly c-clip eliminator that will add the width you need, and then just throw in a Detroit.
 
#10 ·
very cool man, I see where you are coming from. Ford 9" would do nicely, as would a 9.25 Chrysler out of a

So one last question, if I were to go the Ford 8.8 route couldn't I get wheels for the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern with 3.5" of back spacing? This would allow my tire to stick out giving a close to stock ride stance and the same bolt pattern which would eliminate the spacers.
Click to expand...
What year do you have? IIRC, I believe the 8.8 a 5x4.5 bp axle. That will work for most years, but then later on Jeep went to 5x5.5 and some went 5x5
 
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#13 ·
All the 8.8s I come by around here are $400 and up.


[smilie=1wj2.gif]
 
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#14 ·
rockyour4x4 said:
Actually, the 8.8 doesn't have a third bearing. The big advantage to the 8.8 is you can get the complete unit (4.10s,discs, complete) for under $200. I think it's a no brainer. Superior makes an awesome chromoly c-clip eliminator that will add the width you need, and then just throw in a Detroit.
Click to expand...
I agree. It's getting hard to find them for so cheap, but they are out there. The Super 88 kit is a very nice option to have also.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
So I see a D44 out of an 87-89 Cherokee with the towing package will fit up nicely. From what I understand, it is not the D44A but infact a standard D44. Any thoughts or experience with this one?

I'm assuming this is going to be extremely hard to find, but I'm in no hurry so I can be patient.
 
#18 ·
So I see a D44 out of an 87-89 Cherokee with the towing package will fit up nicely.
Click to expand...
Rock is right, these are harder to find, and they are not bolt on. The bracketry needs to be swapped. Since you would need to weld on the correct bracketry, you could open your options up with a 44 out of a Scout as well
 
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Discussion starter · #19 ·
I'm not worried about the welding end of things. I'm basically looking for something that is the correct size. The brackets can be made or bought and it can be re-geared. Brakes can be converted, most of the time. However, I do not want to get into custom length axles and new tubes. So if a D44 out of an 87-89 Cherokee would work, then so be it, I'll add it to my list and keep my eyes peeled.

You also say that Scouts are in the neighborhood as well? What are you suggesting here?
 
#20 ·
a scout 44 is a good size for swapping into Jeeps, is easier to find then an ZJ 87 44, I am trying to give you more options. FInding an 87 XJ with the 44 under it is a PITA.
 
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jlloyd
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