How do I adjust my adjustable control arms at the correct length if i want to lift it myself? Any help would be great.
Thanks
Thanks
Control arms measure
TNjeeper
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Adjust them until your wheels are centered in the wells? Nope, bad idea.
My control arm lengths are around here somewhere. Do a search under my username and with Control arm measurement. Yeah, I'm at 6.5 but, it'll give you somewhere to start.
I'm still shaking my head at the centered comment. Too funny and too wrong.
Hunter
My control arm lengths are around here somewhere. Do a search under my username and with Control arm measurement. Yeah, I'm at 6.5 but, it'll give you somewhere to start.
I'm still shaking my head at the centered comment. Too funny and too wrong.
Hunter
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1,539 Posts
hey texas, i have a few questions for you... im look'n to run the same set up you have, and as you know I'm currently running a 4.5" re short arm. first do i need to have ALL adjustable arms in the front? what kind of bump stop set up are you running? did you trim metal at all or just bumbers? and did you have to do anything with your drivelines?
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88 Posts
Well I guess I agree and dissagree at the same time. If the lift on the WJ is 4" or less centering the tires in the wheel wells will work fine. If your going over the 4" mark then you must have the tires off-set towards the rear of the jeep to compansate for the forward movement of the front axle durning flex, more-so if you disconnect the front sway bar. Likewise on a WJ you can go up to 4" of lift with the stock arms and not run into any problems on the trail. Tires size and driving habits can also be a factor. As a side note here I have installed lifts of 4-4.5" on WJ's and setting the length of the front arms to the stock length has not given the drivers or my own WJ a problem. The stock measurments however are not all the same on all jeeps, I guess they vary right from the factory. And stock is very, very close to center on the front. The rear is different.Texas ZJ1 said:
If i'm wrong here please explain why???
More often than not you are going to want the wheels to be near the fenderwells at ride height. The rears should be close to the front of the fenderwells and the front should be closer to the rear of the fenderwells. As you flex the wheels are going to travel in an arc. Having them closer to the center of the vehicle at ride height will put them more in the center of the wheelwells when you are flexing. This is desireable because you dont want to be rubbing the front or rear of your wheelwells when you are stuffing a tire.
Make sense?
Make sense?
For just the 4.5 RE short arm kit, all adjustable are not needed. If you add the BB, they are because you'll need to push the front axle forward again. I'm running the extended from bumpstops (almost 6 inches worth). I've trimmed some of the metal at the front of the fenders also. My drivelines are stock.JimmyG93 said:
Hunter
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1,539 Posts
ok, thanks for the info... so far im not running any bump stops, i know i need to but im looking at my options first. i think im going to run the same setup you are in the front, and then run the tj bump stops in the rear, that way they are in the spring which will help keep them from popping out also.
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