what is the most cost efective lift i can get i already have a BB and 31s and want to go up to a set of 33s what has been done and what works please let me know i dont want to waste money and buy some piece of crap [smilie=bal_thanx.gif]
cheap lift ....how to do it ?
dashnJGC
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what is the most cost efective lift i can get i already have a BB and 31s and want to go up to a set of 33s what has been done and what works please let me know i dont want to waste money and buy some piece of crap [smilie=bal_thanx.gif]
When you go above 4", it's about time to go long arm. There are too many things that need changed and short arms are problematic because they are too SHORT: radius length to axle causes too much angle change; angle at rest versus suspension compression moving front arms/axle forward when hitting a bump, rear axle extended cause tire to hit front of wheel well and when compressed tire hits back. And the list goes on and on. Cheapest lift is BB (2"). F>R is next (3 1/2"). After that you are talking much more money!
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
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56 Posts
With rigs like ours.....there really is no such thing as a cheap lift. How about you tell us what your budget is and we can tell you how much you can do and still drive it to work.
alrigth i was in the same boat i had the BB with 32's and it gets old u always want bigger so i did the F>R swap and tried to keep it under 500 but it just doesnt work. if u want to run 33's ur gonna have to go up to atleast 4.5 with soem trimming and that means ADJ CA's for 4 lower and posibly upper CA's. then you have to get both trackbars, disconnects, springs , shocks,etc. and w.e u might need. i learned the hard way by trying to put together my lift part by part but i ended up with about 800 bucks in parts to acheive my F>R swap for 4.5 inches of lift....o yeah dont forget new rims and tires(800$$$) then you got ur alignment(70bucks). im 17 and im hard headed and thought i could do it the cheap way but i should have listened to all the grand cherokee pros but i didnt... dont get me wrong my GC looks bad A now but it emptied my pockets...BUY A KIT !!! DONT DO A F>R ....my 2 cents...good luck ......
ill be posting some pics soon!!
ill be posting some pics soon!!
ok thanks see i got the thing with the 2inch BB with 31s was doing some checkin out on the web and found this http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...erchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-Z_3LK&Category_Code=PFZ they make a front to rear swap kit or something along that what do you think of it and let me know what you all think
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you can fit 33's with just a BB if you trim enough
rhavlor (sp?) did that to his zj back in like 01
rhavlor (sp?) did that to his zj back in like 01
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Let me give you the breakdown on my cheap lift. I bought 3" coil spacers off of ebay for about 100 bucks shipped. JKS rear adj track bar 150 KOR front trackbar conversion with jks adj trackbar and hard durometer bushings 350. 4 skyjacker nitros 200. OME steering stabilizer 35. Add a grand to that and I could have just ordered rusty's kit and have been done with it. Instead I spent another 1400 on my kit and that is only because rusty was nice enough to let me build my own kit without some of the crap.
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what you are thinking, many people had already tried. It just will not work (Including me). Most people started with 2" BB and 31" tires, and the car runs fine. Which give you the illusion that you can do fine with a little higher lift with BB and a little bigger tires. WRONG!! The difference is huge! even if you trim fenders, unless you will never go off-road, you will still rub on your fender and ruin your new tires (including me). Plus you can not get away without changing to adj arms and sway bar disconnect with 3" plus lift (including me), specially 33" tires. I did a 3.5" with acos, the worst decision ever! due to the 3.5" acos spacer, now my ZJ have leaning problem. (if you change to longer spring instead then you will not have leaning problem) The car swings like hell on the freeway. You also need to up-grade your brake for 33" tires (my brake is dangerously suck at this time even with all EBC brakes and rotors). In addition, new 3.75 offset rims are also needed (to avoid rubbing th steering component). Don't make the mistake many of us already did. 2"BB is best for 31". The only next level with acceptable result is a complete lift kit! (unless you want to go through the same learning by mistake like us). Oh, did I mention new longer shocks? I bottom out my new shock and mess up the bushing with the 3.5" boost. With all the money I spent, not out off will but force into because of "cheap lifting" the car, I could have got a RE long arm kits!! DON'T BE A SUCKER LIKE ME!!!!
Short control arms are good for no more then 4.5" because of the increased angle in them caused by the lift. When vehicle sways/leans left or right and left side/right side arm angle changes, the axles "skateboard"
steer.. and vehicle turns just like a skateboard! Even at 3.5" there is some 'skateboard' steering.
Just my .02
Good Luck!
steer.. and vehicle turns just like a skateboard! Even at 3.5" there is some 'skateboard' steering.
Just my .02
Good Luck!
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639 Posts
wrongrtingdds said:
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2,514 Posts
You could try some adjustible coil over spacers and when you eventually add bumpers and extra weight you can raise it up higher to pick up the sag in your springs
If you trim enough you can run 33's on 2-3 inches of lift with the stock control arms, the issue is that most people are not willing to trim that much.
Offroading with 33" tires and a 2" bb is possible, but you will rub a bit plus spacers really only give you clearance and don't allow for much more flex. If you go for a ~3" f->r lift then you are running longer springs which allow for a bit more articulation (assuming you trim the fenders). Also make sure your rims have the proper backspacing so the wheels will stuff into the fenders. KevinsOffroad has a good f->r article with more tips.
I've been running a f->r lift with stock control arms, 3" Teraflex springs, KOR trackbar conversion up front, JKS trackbar in the rear, RE shocks, Teraflex disconnects, and 33" (real measurement) tires for about 3 years. I do rub a little at full steering lock but adjusting the stops would fix that, and during extreme flex my front wheel hits the bumper a little, but nothing more trimming won't stop. The aftermarket trackbars will allow you to re-center your axle so it can stuff into the fenders on both sides, though you could get a similar effect by re-drilling or lengthening the stock TBs.
Here are some pictures showing the lift on the trail. You can see that I still hit the rear bumper a bit, and that during exterme stuff the front tire hits the bumper a little. Neither point of contact is an issue.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
More pics at the following link:
http://www.blankwhitepage.com/gallery/jeep_zj
- Matt
Offroading with 33" tires and a 2" bb is possible, but you will rub a bit plus spacers really only give you clearance and don't allow for much more flex. If you go for a ~3" f->r lift then you are running longer springs which allow for a bit more articulation (assuming you trim the fenders). Also make sure your rims have the proper backspacing so the wheels will stuff into the fenders. KevinsOffroad has a good f->r article with more tips.
I've been running a f->r lift with stock control arms, 3" Teraflex springs, KOR trackbar conversion up front, JKS trackbar in the rear, RE shocks, Teraflex disconnects, and 33" (real measurement) tires for about 3 years. I do rub a little at full steering lock but adjusting the stops would fix that, and during extreme flex my front wheel hits the bumper a little, but nothing more trimming won't stop. The aftermarket trackbars will allow you to re-center your axle so it can stuff into the fenders on both sides, though you could get a similar effect by re-drilling or lengthening the stock TBs.
Here are some pictures showing the lift on the trail. You can see that I still hit the rear bumper a bit, and that during exterme stuff the front tire hits the bumper a little. Neither point of contact is an issue.
More pics at the following link:
http://www.blankwhitepage.com/gallery/jeep_zj
- Matt
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522 Posts
slomatt, what you described is not exactly cheap lift, you almost got a complete lift kit!! (minus adj arms only). By the way those minor rubbing ruined me 2 new MTRs. Like I said, once you go 3" or more with 33", there is no cheap lift, you need springs, shocks, quick disconnect, wheels, track bar, bump stop, brakes & rotors upgrade... not just BBs and tires.
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