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Phaze

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I understand that the brackets for relocating the rear track bar are aweful, the devil, etc. is it possible to drill the bolts...install the bolts, weld the bracket on or beef it up hard core so that it wont be such a PITA. anything? I know all about adj track bars, so im just wondering if its POSSIBLE to beef them up somehow.
 
the new bracket busting off the stock bracket isn't the problem. ripping the stock mount off the axle is. there's just too much leverage on it with the relocation bracket...it just wasn't designed for it. yea, you could probably beef the mount up, but why? a relocation bracket is ~$70, plus the time and expense of welding to beef up the mount just to have things be "hopefully okay"....just buy a new track bar for ~$130 bolt it on and never worry about it again. we aren't talking about that much money.
 
My relocation bracket from RE is great. The guys who disco the rear swaybar or run without them have the problems.


Hunter
 
Texas ZJ1 said:
My relocation bracket from RE is great. The guys who disco the rear swaybar or run without them have the problems.


Hunter
[smilie=bal_ask.gif]

Until the bolts fall out . . . .

:mrgreen:
 
Yeah, the bolts did fall out, well, just two and one was really loose. This leads me to another point. Kids, don't do drugs.....


Preflighting your gear is always good. I'm not sure how long those bolts were loose but, it sure was a much better ride going home.


Hunter
 
I may look like an idiot, but I've got to ask. Is there any reason other than cosmetic to relocate or replace the stock rear track bar?

Here is my setup 94 ZJ 5" of lift 3" coils and 2" BB. Front adjustable track bar. I have about 2" of extended bump stop up front and 3" on the rear. I run 33x12.5 tires on wheels with 3.75" of back spacing. tire clearance up front is courtesy of saws-all, but the rear is trimmed only at the front of the wheel well. I have been running this setup for over two years now.

With this setup the rear wheels are prevented from contacting the top of the wheel well buy the bump stops if both wheel come up at the same time. If the suspension is fully articulated, the tires will clear the inside lip of the fender by about an 1/8 of an inch as the tire moves into the wheel well. This is the same on both sides.

My thought is that if I use an adjustable track bar or relocate the OEM bar to center the axle under the Jeep, the left rear tire will hit the top of the fender.

So as the Jeep sets now, the rear axle is offset to right about 1 inch. Is this a problem other than looks?

Thanks for your help.
 
If you are happy with it then it is fine, the alignment is off by an inch, as you said the axle is over 1 inch. So that may make it track a little sideways, may not even be noticable, but could lead to premature tire wear, or possibly wear on the conrtrol arm bushings; from them being in a little of a bind. It is even possible(and probably the case) that as long as the front wheels point straight and the back wheels point straight(even though they are not in perfect alignment with each other) the truck will go straight. The most likely place it would be noticable would be in tight corners. If the axle is sitting 1 inch to the passenger side, going through a left handed turn would be more stable than going through a right turn, this is due to the wheel being farther out on that side and being similar to having some wider wheels. Like I said if you are happy, then keep on truckin...
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
I figured i would ask, for the benefit of everyone here. I am running an adjustable rear trac, but wanted to know if it IS possible to wheel with a relocator for the hell of it. I heard the horrors of breaking them off and decided it wasnt for me. thanks for the response guys.
 
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