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1jeep1

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Ive been having some issues with my security system I try to start my jeep and It will just click and then the security system kicks in and starts going nutz until I deactivate it . Usally it takes a good 5 trys when this happens to finally get my jeep to start up with out the alarm going off. any help why does it keep doing this for no reason
 
New to the forum...don't know if you have this figured out yet or not...I work in the Automtive Electrical field and deal with this type of thing on a regular basis...hopefully I can help...

Almost sounds like a bad battery or battery terminal corrosion or loose terminals...or could even be a bad starter...

The starter would click due to a lack of current supply to make it spin...spinning up the starter takes a very large amount of current due to the fact that it must get the engine spinning and to do so it must fight against cylinder compression...to achieve such a high amount of current, manufacturers ususally run a direct lead from the battery to the starter without fusing (this is usually the same for the lead from the battery to the alternator - for the same purposes)...by not putting a fuse in there the starter could potentially pull enough current from the battery that it would not have enough current left over to give constant power to various accessories that need it...for example, your alarm system would need a small amount of constant power to function properly...when this constant power is lost (by trying to crank the starter - even for a split second) and then comes back (when you stop cranking the starter) the alarm starts "freaking" out because it believes that the vehicle is being stolen...

So...with all of that said...the aforementioned potential problems could all cause the starter to pull too much current which would cause the alarm to loose the needed constant power...I would start by checking that the terminals are tight and there is no corrosion on them...if this is okay then I would get the starter and battery checked out to make sure they are good...

Jeff
 
security system

You might try removing the security module from the vehicle and seeing if that resolves the issue. The "black boxes" seem to interact with one another and you really can get some strange symptoms where you least expect them. The good news is that pulling the security module will NOT prevent the truck from running and may help you isolate the problem too.
Good luck to ya !!!
 
Momule, Are you sure removing the security module (mine is on the passenger side under the glove box -95 ZJ) won't disable the starter? A year or so back I did that exact thing, and the Jeep would not even spin the starter! At the time, I put the module back in place, and pulled the fuses for the security alarm module (#6), and the security alarm relay (#7). That allowed the Jeep to start and run. The only thing I lost was the "flash to pass" function.

OK, Now I need help again! This weekend, I drove the Jeep to the store, came home and parked it. Went back out an hour later, and the starter spins, but the engine is getting no spark. I checked for voltage at the coil and it reads zero . . I have cycled all the locks using the key, and have cycled the locks with the remote without success . .

I suspect the factory alarm system is acting up again, so HOW do I get this thing to run?? I found an older thread about grounding the purple/yellow wire under the drivers side kick panel, but that did not help. It did kill the security light on the dash, but no start! HELP! I really need this vehicle running and do not want to invest in new parts for this crappy security system! Thanks!
 
These damn black boxes !!!! I cannot guarantee anything when it comes to the electronics of these vehicles. All I can tell you is that my GC was refusing to start and a dealer as well as an independent both ran diagnostics thru the computer and they both pointed to the security module as the problem. The independent mistakenly removed the "autolamp module" and called it done and the dealer put it back in and removed the correct module. I have had ZERO starting problems since then. I didnt buy the ZJ with a remote starter and am not sure what all the security module controls but this ZJ is a fully loaded Limited and should have everything......if I'm missing a feature I will probably not miss it. Good luck to ya !!!
 
Momule, Thanks for the reply. I unplugged the security module (it even has a sticker on it saying "security module", and the module next to it under the glove box. I am assuming from your last post that this is the auto lamp control box. Well, the bottom line is still no start. Starter spins fine, but no spark. I disconnected the battery for an hour and tried again. Still no start. I am going to try plugging the security module back in tonight and try ONE more time. I am afraid I will have to tow it to a dealer to have the problem diagnosed . . . Can you say $$$ Any ideas appreciated! I guess grounding of the purple/yellow wire does nothing since the security module is unplugged??
 
Sorry that my suggestion didnt help.....good luck to you and please let us know what happens as we may benefit from your experience down the road......and NO, we won't be helping you out with the dealer's bill...we have enough of our own problems ya know.....I hope it works out as cheaply as possible....
 
Guys, I read the codes off of the MIL, and got a code 11 and 12. One (I cannot remember which one) simply tells you the battery has been disconnected in the previous 50 ignition cycles, and the other code tells me the cps or the cms is not sending a signal. I don't believe the 4.0 has a cms. If it does, please correct me!

I read in my manual how to test the cps, and found that while it was getting power, it did not have an output while cranking. Output should vary from 0-5 volts while cranking. Mine had no output at all. I pulled the cps from the bellhousing and will replace it this weekend. My only concern at this point is that the manual (Haynes and not really very good) does not state 100% that the cps is bad if it does not check out. It says it *MAY* be bad . . .

What I found upon removal was that the shifter cables had been resting on top of the cps and this is where the wires exit. The wires show evidence of wear and may be open . .. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. With the code on the MIL and the lack of signal from the cps, I really hope this is the problem! I'll let you know!
 
Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who responded to my questions! The old girl is up and running. I replace the cps and she fired right up! I don't believe the cps failed in a normal manner though. The shifter cable has an aluminized heat shield around the cables, and it was laying on top of the cps where the wires exit. The wires were badly chaffed, and the conductors were exposed.

Now, the old girl runs, but I am still fighting a security problem. I grounded the purple/yellow wire under the drivers kick panel, but my security light STILL comes on . . . I unplugged the #4 fuse for the security lamp, and it still burns! So, I unplugged the #6 fuse and the #7 fuse. I have finally killed the security light, except when using the headlights. When I switch from low beam to high beam, the security light flashes on for a few seconds. I'd really like to kill that light, but cannot figure out how . .

Anyone got any ideas? Thanks!
 
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